An Old Pickup For A True Daily Driver ...

Squirrel,

A guy at work has a 64 K10 and he has the 292 4 speed granny low. Is there anything weird about the bellhousing/transfer case pattern? I assume all of the Chevy bellhousing patterns are the same since this truck had the optional v8. He is wanting to build a SBC to replace the tired 292.

 

I know this a traditional board, but if we are talking about giving up our late model for a daily, I would look into a serpentine belt system off of a late model. One belt, 10 minutes to change it and they wear twice as long as a v belt.

 

Shit, nothing wrong with creature comforts - I have heat/AC/defrost in my '55 Chevy pu DD. Hell I even put a seat heater in it last weekend! I had the seat out to fix a busted spring, and remembered I had a seat heater kit I got with another project.

Works really good on my poor old broken back.

Just FYI, my old '55 is still on the stock frame / straight axle, rebuilt w/ new kingpins, etc. and upgraded with disc brakes, power steering adapted from a later GM truck, and monoleaf springs.

If I had it to do over again I would have just clipped it. Would have been a lot cheaper and I could have gotten a better ride and got it a LOT lower.

Out back is a later GM rear on the stock springs w/ a couple of leafs yanked out. Rides much better but I need to add some air shocks to compensate for those missing springs to help out with heavy loads. Last load of lumber I got (enough to build a good sized gazebo) it was hunkered down pretty good.

I also upgraded to electric wipers, and have an Ipod hidden in the ashtray. I modified it so it flips down 180* when not in use.

I've got a 305/350 and get about 17-18 mpg, probably as good (or better) than most full size, late model pickups. Mileage is actually a bit less on the highway, I could really use an OD tranny.

All in all I can't think of anything new I'd like any better, and my old truck's a beater for sure.

 

Should bolt right in, but he'll need to change one of the motor mount brackets because one side of the 292 has it offset forward.

That 292 if it's original will probably have the steel crankshaft, only the very early engines did.

 

I picked up my 53 using the xterra and a uhaul dual axle trailer in Maryland. On the highway I had to slow down a little but that was my only issue. Stopped quick and rode fine. I did wish it had some extra weight in the rear that is why I recommended a 3/4 ton. I have been wanting a true work truck to tow been eyeballing 60's 3/4 ton trucks. But might settle for an early 70's f250.

I think if you really want a old pickup and can tow look at a boxed chassis by cpp with mustang 2 and disc brakes. 50's truck frames are flimsy and flex easily.

Btw my 53 has the best heat I have ever had in any car I have owned or driven. I am sure its the flathead as they are huge heat producers.

 

That's cool. I like the first series 55 Chevys too. I think my cut off for Chevy/Ford trucks is when the running boards went away.

As for lowering, for me, it's not in the plan. I think lowering just takes away from the trucks functionality as a truck and as a daily driver. I've got the hot rod for riding low. But I wonder if I'd get better highway fuel economy if it was lowered ... Hmmmm.

And a 305 is actually the engine I'm most strongly considering – they're cheap and I like the smaller displacement and longer stroke combo. The longer stroke should make more torque at lower RPMs than my 283. And it should do better on fuel mileage day-to-day when I'm not hauling heavy stuff – especially with the 700R4.

BTW, what about 200R4s? are they stronger or weaker than 700s?

 

My daily driver and work truck. Although the new England snow and salt are attacking it (new front fenders needed) it is my daily driver and work truck. Upgraded with a 425 cid Caddy, disc brakes (non-power), power steering and a/c-heat. It is lowered with a more drop axle & posie rear spring. Wife has a late model car but this is the newest of my wheels.

 

I don't know anything about availability of parts in your area...but where I live....most guys throw out the heavy stuff.... 3/4 tonne and above. Seems to be an abundance of work trucks from farms and the likes...but no original half tonne short wheelbase trucks to hotrod.

Guys buy the heavy farm rigs, throw away the heavy duty stuff, source a 1/2 tonne frame or make one from scratch and buy aftermarket 1/2 tonne fenders. Voila...hotrod pickup.

I would guess there's alot of heavy duty frames from such projects kicking around in backyards and fields....probably free for the hauling

I'm backburnering my daily/worktruck and want the same thing you do D-Russ. I bought a 42 ford deucenahalf...old fire truck...just for the body. It's got the bigger front fenders on it...they're the same on 3/4 plus trucks. The frame/axles weren't any good for me other than scrap weight. Then I found an original 3/4 rolling chassis from a 48 Merc...pretty heavy duty and definitely strong enough to tow. Paid $250 for the chassis and all it needs is brakes and a tierod.

Those 3/4 plus trucks were built to WORK and carried their max, plus some. I'm not worried one little bit that when I put it on the road that it can haul big stuff. I am gonna run discs up front though...no power brakes...just some heavy leverage built into that peddle. I've stalled while towing in a rig with power brakes before...SCARY!

 

I didn't read the entire thread, but it sounds like you only want to tow the Vicky when it breaks down or when you want to haul another project home.

How often do you do this? Maybe 4 times a year? 6 times? Is it worth it to you to trade driving the 41 all year for a few minutes of towing? Let me explain what I mean.

Let's assume you have to go slower when towing with the 41 instead of the 51 (or with some 3/4 ton truck). The reasons are,
1. You can't get stopped as quickly and
2. It can't make it up hills as well.
So you drive slower to compensate and be safe.

Let's say you have to keep it at 45 miles per hour on the highway. Mathematically, if you drive 45mph, it will take you 2 hours and 13 minutes to drive 100 miles. If you drive 70mph, you can get there in 1 hour and 25 minutes. You save 48 minutes per 100 miles.

Is 48 minutes a few times a year enough to make you decide to drive the truck you don't want the rest of the year? Only you can answer.

I don't think there will be that much difference in towing between the two anyway because they are nearly the same size and weight.

As mentioned earlier, trailer brakes make a huge difference, but if you go slow you can flat-tow it safely, in my humble opinion.

 

I was considering keeping a 283 in my 57, but I have towed some recently with my wife's late model Silverado that has the 262 cid V6, and it's just too weak. The 87 suburban we had with the 350 pulled ok, but I don't have any 350s laying around, so I decided to go with the 454 for my "heavy duty" truck.

As long as you're not pulling two or three tons behind the truck, the small engine would be ok, and definitely would help mileage.

(btw her late model truck gets about 20 mpg in normal daily use)

 

I don't like tall trucks as less wind gets under them especially while towing.

I had a 305 in a c10 I owned for a short period and man did it lack the torque I needed especially when towing. It was a 82 c10 and was great for towing besides power. I was going to drop in a 454 and use it as a tow machine but traded it for a bike.

700r4 are very close to th350 size thats why more people use them over 200r4. I have seen multiple times just changing the slip yoke and nothing else to a drive shaft from a th350. You can build up a 200r4 though to be very though.

 

Actually mines a second series aka 'Task Force' design. I dig the old AD's too so it's all good.

Wouldn't want mine scraping the ground, but a couple inches lower would be cool. But yeah, I've seen (and owned ONE) trucks that have such a deep C notch and such little suspension travel they're no longer really usable as a real 'work' truck. I'm talking about hauling lumber, a load of mulch, scrap metal, pulling a trailer, etc.

Couldn't really tell you from personal experience on the 700R4/200R4 deal, but I've heard the 200's are just as good.

I've gotta replace my windshield - 'sandblasted' from 56 years on the road, but an OD tranny is at the top of my 'to do' list. I've also got a better door (some PO filled the drivers door with spray foam so the bondo would have something to stick to), a pair of like new rear fenders, and a few patch panels to install.

 

After seeing some of the awesome work you've done, you could make a Yugo truck fill the bill.

 

My beater truck is a '52 F-3 on a '93 Dakota frame with a gen III 350 and 700r4. I removed the gas tank inside the cab and installed the Dakota bench seat (I'm 6'2"). I have a class III trailer hitch and tow a 60's era Aloha 10' camper. It tows it OK up to about 65mph after that it gets a little squirrley. It stops fine with the Dakota brake set-up. I also switched to electric wipers. I still need to install my heater but I guess I should put in side windows first!

 

I have dad's 48 F1 out behind the garage. In the mid 60's my family was involved in custom grain harvesting, and this old pickup has hauled car sized loads on a trailer (combine header) from kansas to texas to canada and back home several times. The only modifications were a later OHV six cylinder and some overload leafs in the rear. That being said, One has to remember that our caravan of equipment, mostly being from the fifties or sixties and heavily loaded usually wouldn't roll any faster than 45 mph.

In later years, we used a variety of fifties GMC, Chevy, and this ol ford half tons to haul anything and every thing on the farm. One such item being a 500 gallon propane tank on wheels used to fuel our propane powered tractors. With a full load of propane on board, that trailer easily weighed 4500 pounds. The key to the whole thing was that we knew we were pulling way more than the capacity of the trucks, so we knew to start slowing down a quarter mile before the turn.

You can do anything you want to do if you plan ahead and use common sense.

 

This is my 53 that I drive every where I go. Being retired, I wonder here and there chasing parts and just horsing around.The stock 6 has been rebuilt and disc brakes make it dependable and road worthy. I have averaged about 100 miles a month over the the last 3 years and have enjoyed every mile I have driven it. People are always asking me about it and I get lots of waves driving down the road. Having an old truck for every day use makes the journey a pleasant one for sure.

 

Daily driver! Yes have a few! towing only two a 59 chevy orig 4x4 & a 72 chevy 4x4! Note they will tow okay but shortbeds & older trucks don't stop with a big load! Not like a new truck & 72 has disc power brakes! Just don't overload & give yourself braking time! Tks! Bill

 

Great looking truck!

 

So when you were towing, was it with the Camaro sub or the S10 frame? I assume the Camaro sub came first. I'm going to try to stick to half ton truck upgrades if I can. (brakes, etc.) I don't think an S10 frame would be any better than my Nissan, but I could be wrong.

Good point, thanks, I hadn't thought about insurance.

Very nice – I like it. But I couldn't afford to put gas in it with one ton suspension and frame combined with that 454. Towing once or twice a year, I can't justify a 3/4 or 1 ton. Most of my driving is to and from work everyday 18 miles each way – that's why I'm focusing on half tons.

If I can, I want to avoid car suspension and brakes. I'll probably keep the straight axle the truck comes with abd upgrade to disc brakes.

Interesting thought, I hadn't thought about looking at heavier trucks.

Very logical – that's why I'm focused on lighter trucks. Most of the time I'll just be driving to and from work, hauling nothing.

Well thank you very much, that's very kind.

Is a Dakota more like my Nissan, or is it a half ton truck?

Do you really need all those trucks? I'll take the green AD.

I dig it.

 

I towed a small camper with the truck when it had the Camaro sub. It wasn't till the s-10 chassis that I started pulling a car trailer. This pic was only a 15 mile trip. I towed 999 to Columbus one year. My truck has non power brakes. Power may have helped a little with towing. Trailer brakes would be a big plus.



If you have airbags ....you can plow the driveway! I was just playing around

Clark

 

Mine: '55.2 big window Chevy with rumpety-rump over cammed 283, TH350 and 10 bolt. CL faux (I think) TT's. Everything works, I wouldn't hesitate to drive it most anywhere and its not close to being like I want it to look eventually. 3" de-arched leaf springs are coming with (OT Teflon between them) and probably with a dropped axle. It's running stock drums now that are in perfect condition, but I have a disc kit for later.

 

Actually some insurance companies will do "Stated Value" policies. I just insured my '51 F1 for regular daily driving. The Hartford set me up with a very affordable policy based on the amount I valued the truck at, knowing it will be driven daily. Its about the same price as my wife's 03 Explorer.

 

FWIW: For a DD you want a cool vintage 1/2 ton. I get that. If you are going to tow a car on a trailer (5000 lb load), you really want to use a later model truck of at least 3/4 ton, and a trailer with brakes.

Here's why: 3/4 tonners have MUCH bigger suspensions and brakes than 1/2s. Later models (60s-70s) have more interior room and are physically larger. But here's the main thing: You want a decently heavy tow vehicle so that the load doesn't push you around the whole time you're towing. I would never tow a car (again) with a 1/2 tonner, and I say that from miles of scary experience doing it. I have been literally pushed though intersections doing it. I was young and inexperienced, what can I say?

I use a won-ton now, but it is not my DD. Tough compromise you're facing. Best wishes be safe.

 

I wasn't going to; but I can't stand it any longer...

If you you use your super human being (common) sense you can easily use a half ton truck to do exactly what you're talking about... I have tipped the scales at the scrap yard weighing in over 11,000 pounds with a swb F150 powered by a 300-6 a 5 speed and my trailer doesn't have brakes or suspension...axles welded solid...

We all know that from experience driving older vehicles that we have to be more cautious when driving...it's the same when you're pulling a trailer. Best thing is to know your rig's limitations and keep within them.

If I had a nickel for every mile that I've drug my old solid axle 16 foot trailer...I could almost retire and I'm only 37 and none of those miles were ever with anything more than a half ton truck...

 

Why would you need more than 1 v-belt on a normal system, alternator, waterpump and crank, that's even how my daily 81 el camino is these days... and i havent replaced the belt in atleast 10 years

 

The Dakota is rated at 1/2 ton and even has six lug wheels (that's why I run hubcaps).

 

Look like location/snow/sleet ect plays a major factor in a true daily driver. There comes a point in making a big decision: sacrifice old tin to the elements, to sooth the ego. The arid climates make it easy to do.