Nov. 2011 Banger thread. Really...November?

I believe Bert's now mfg'rs the 'kit' to mnt pedal assy, hand brake etc. B into A Approx $240.00

http://modelastore.com/

 

Does your ISP charge by the letter?

-Dave

 

Isn't that what hot rodders do? Make and adapt stuff to work in their old (Ford ) cars .

I always thought that back in the day when 4 barrel, meant a four cylinder "gow job" the point of difference between hotrodders and spoiled sports car driving kids was that hotrodders made their parts and cars themselves and they were better and faster than the snot nosed rich kids cars .

 

No, ISP is great.. the werds are too big, and I dun't spll 2 gd Chears

 

If it wasn't for rich kid hot rodders there would have been no speed equipment made....... or surviving.

Money isn't such a bad thing. I've been rich and poor many times. Rich is better......

The notion that all inovation stems from poverty is just stupid.

 

Fair enough!

Well said. Lotsa inverse snobbery around here.

-Dave

 

Wives can be like that.

 

Thanks to all who have responded to my B into A questions, a big help

Next question, how much can I safely remove from the B head.
The engine is 60 over, pressurised oil balanced, mild cam
I don't want to go overboard on the head.

Here's the pick up

 

Not much more then .080". Even if you were to take .187" - .250" you wouldn't efect the compression ratio significantly.

.

 

You can think I am stupid if you want, I couldn't care less.

1932Tub said he thought he was going to "have to make a bracket". My tongue in cheek comment was simply that that wouldn't be such a bad thing, considering simplicity of the job and the era of the parts/hot rod and technology he is building.
We are talking about a simple pedal bracket and a handbrake mounting here, not a OHV conversion .

Did I say money was BAD? Did I say I think innovation only stems from poverty? No , that's just bullshit assumption on your part.

It depends on what you call rich too.....and I said nothing about "rich kid hot rodders"

My comment was about an era before easily available mass produced speed equipment...which IMHO ,once it arrived, you never needed to be "rich" to own anyway .

 

Whatever!!

 

anyone?

 

This one is from a V8 hogs head set up I have for V8 to 5 speed

I slid it on a banger fork and it looks like it would work but I don't have a banger one on hand

 

1.550

 

A little update on the Winfield and a question-

After running around like an IDIOT from one parts store to another, I picked up some 3/8 brass stock and a 5/16 24 die. Fiddled around with the Unimat last night for 20 minutes or so, and I now have a new idle bypass plug (will take pics of before/after tonight)!!!

Now the question- I'm missing the choke linkage and the other linkage arms on the carb are pretty loose and wobbly... is there anyone who reproduces the linkage OR does anyone have a suggestion for replacing the arms? Not looking for ultra-performance, just something that looks correct without the slop.

Thanks as always, Bill

 

Check this stuff out Bill
http://www.thehotrodcompany.com/shopnow/show_item.asp?product_id=9090K
Ron

 

Seeing that picture makes me wonder. Are air cleaners safe on updraft carburetors? I understand one of the reasons Henry Ford is said to have preferred them is that they reduced the risk of flooding the engine. With that in mind, it seems that there would be a risk of the air cleaner elements becoming saturated with fuel and potentially turning into a fireball.

-Dave

 

Thanks Ron!!!

 

Dave; the carbs have a screened drain (vent) in the bottom of the throat so that the flooded fuel will drain before it gets to the air cleaner.
Fireball That would be badddddd.
Ron

 

i found thar a stock "A" doesnt really like an air filter . when i was running the stock updraft , i bought the filter & took the paper out . ran just the mesh for a rock gaurd . maynot be correct but it worked for me .......... steve

 

Can't you set up and drill and mill some on your Unimat?

 

Guess I could

 

I think one old boy didn't use the swivels, he just bent wires out of 3/16 (.187) wire or maybe drill rod and used it in the die cast arms.

I hadn't finished the radiuses on those brass levers. I use a .187 pin in a piece of Al. plate and swing the lever radius manually. Just find the center and dial off the radius. Cut conventional (I never cut with a climb cut especially feeding the part by hand) and start with the part against a pin for a stop and eyeball the other side or end. I started out holding the part with a 9/16 wrench to swing it but found I could do it with my fingers. Make sure to shim up under the .187 pin what ever amount you have milled off of that surface
I start with 3/8's by 5/8's brass bar from McMaster Carr. I cut to length. mill to .562 by .312 and drill and tap and so on so forth.

 

I also would be interested in anyone making parts for these carbs I am missing choke elbows for both mine [SR downdrafts] they have velocity stacks instead yes we can make parts and yes there may be current carbs that are better but I think the point is that we are trying to build a traditional car with period speed equipment or am I starting to sound too much like a restorer.

 

On the swivels it is critical to hold the dimensions close. I use a small center drill a #1 or 2 or what ever with a 1/8 body to drill in the rivet end. The #8 washers are tight and I set them with a center punch. You need to hold the length to the washer step to within.001 to .002 of the thickness of the arm or the linkage will start out with a little slop, okay for singles but can be a problem on a dual settup.

For the linkage "wire" I use .187 304 SS 303 will break. plain mild steel (1018) bar stock would probably work.

 

Thanks I'll check out what I have here

 

Mac, if you understand the procedure Bill is explaining in post 85 PLEASE don't try this. The amount of blood that can come out the end of your fingers is amazing. Just buy a radius endmill to cut the radius, or send it to me with a diagram of what you want.

 

I guess I just expect a certain skill level when I describe how I do things.
Well, if a person is that unskilled they shouldn't be attempting to make a part such as this. I have all of my finger tips intact. I do not place my fingers where they would could come into contact with the cutter You could cut the radius with a corner rounding end mill however you cannot accurately reproduce this part with just the use of radius cutters. You still have to blend the radius around the bosses. Part of the fun of making a part such as this is figuring out the simplest way to machine it. Not everyone requires the use/cost of a CNC machine. Of course I started my machine shop experience in my first year of high school in 1949 on line shaft machinery, been at it ever since. I suppose then my advice would be to buy some o those die cast arms.

 

I've a bunch of those arms but they are in Poland and I am here, sorry

 

Actually, the more I think about it that probably isn't a good way for some one who hasn't done it or seen it done. It would be better on a rotary table. My problem is/was that I worked in a machine shop that was geared for production for a number of years. My original machine shop instructor had a sign in the door way to the shop that read "Accidents don't happen, they are caused"