331 hemi's for sale, what are they worth?

The difference in adapters is summed up as clutch fork vs hydraulic T/O bearing. I will soon have a manual adapter for the extended bell (A-833, GM and Ford) but will recommend the hydraulic bearing.

Early cranks = smaller cross drilled holes. You can enlarge them.

The gm wp will cut some length at the same time it cuts into you wallet.

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I paid $500 for the extended bell Hemi I put in the Green Grenade. I put 354 heads on it that I paid another 400 bucks for. That was around 2005-ish... I put a 700R4 (GM trans) behind that engine too. Man, I must be a idiot

 

This spring I sold an extended bell 331 that was stuck and complete except for the front brackets for $350. It sold in about 3 weeks which makes me think I had it priced about right.

Carmak
Riverside, Iowa

 

I sold one last year for $1000.

 

Yep I first had the SBC in it. The lower outside parts of the firewall (for cylinder head clearance) and front of the trans tunnel had to be trimmed. I think I could have left the trans tunnel alone if I didn't put the alternator on the top of the bellhousing though...

 

Did we ruin this guys thread?? D'OH!

Dave... I'm pretty sure I have a picture of both the extended bell AND the standard block with the exact adapter you are planning on running in my Model A. I'll see if I can dig it up. I was going to run a Lakewood SFI approved bell housing between the standard 331 and the manual GM. Depending on how close your tunnel is NOW will really depend on how close it is later. May be worth pulling the SBC and mocking up the 331 in there just to see for yourself what direction to go.

 

I'm running a T56, so ignore all that mess, but this will give you an idea of the standard block adapter and bell housing vs the extended bell. I think everything will depend on where you are at right now with your tunnel. There is quite a difference.





And here is the extended bell. Would probably protrude an inch or so MORE into your tunnel.

 

Did I mention that mine was .......REBUILT?!!

 

I switched motors because that motor ended up being cracked. I sold the adapter and bellhousing quite awhile ago to fund the rebuild of one of the other 331's that I had, an extended bell obviously.

So why was it you said you would cut into the block before cutting into the floor boards of that body??? Yes, it takes up a little more room, but it's such a nice simple adaptation for a manual trans.

 

Not really. Only about 10% had 4 bls & 5% 2X4. Aftermarket intakes are rare. There's a guy in New Zealand that is(was?) making new high deck intakes. A DeSoto will fit in a car easier than a Chr.

 

OH YEAH! I read ya' loud and clear buddy! You KNOW I get that end of it!!

Your best best is going to be to find a standard 331 block then. Since you would still need to buy pistons to put on those rods, maybe you could even find one that has already had some machining done. I feel pretty confident that you'll find someone who has one for reasonable if your patient. The owner of our company bought a '55 331 block for $400 in REALLY REALLY good shape. And he just bought a late '54 shortly AFTER for $400 with heads, rods, and crank and machining work already done to the block. So they're out there. Just gotta' put the feelers out and hit the swaps hard and early.

 

Here is one local to me for $750...

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/2674444337.html

Deal or no deal?

 

Again, not enough information to say. Does it turn? Did it lay outside for a while collecting water? Two years ago, I paid $500 for a '52 331 that I witnessed running (and not making any fatal sounding noises) before I handed the $$$ over.

 

My usual reply is that the DeSoto is about 10% smaller than the Chryslers, both in displacement and physical size, and that the Dodge is again 10% smaller than the DeSotos. That will give you decent ballpark.

Unless you 'just gotta have one', the asking price is, on average, a bit high. As heathen asks, what is the general condition? Additional consideration might be given to your geographical location and whether or not something else may turn up that is better suited to your project or whether or not you can and will travel to get something else.
If you think the price is reasonable, if you have the cash available, and if it works for your project, then go for it.

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Everything is relative, in this case 2 or so vs how many for the Chr?

 

The lower half of the bell is extremely important (that is until 'someone' starts casting new aluminum pieces), so don't loose it.
If shipping a block, or a complete engine, doesn't scare you then there are plenty to be had across the US. The average cost that I have found is around $400.

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Picking up some later heads may solve your problems. You HAVE the water pump and crossover, and you still need a ton of other stuff. Maybe just look for a later 331 or 354 block, use what you can off of the motor you have, and maybe see about digging up some heads. I see heads up come up all the time for anywhere from $150 to $350 depending on where they are, the condition, etc. That will open up your manifold choices as well. Chances are you'll have to go through the early 331 heads anyway. You'll spend the same on either set of heads and the price for a core set of later 331 or even 354 heads will be very little compared to what you'll spend to have the heads gone through with new valves, springs, keepers, guides, maybe hardened seats, blah, blah, blah...

Welcome to the wonderful world of Hemis! Money will be spent one way or another...

...and now I'm probably no longer in that "best friend" category you just mentioned.

 

If it hasn't been mentioned yet, click on Scooter's linky to the hemi tech index & stert reading, if you haven't yet. The dry Chr intakes can be tapped for a remote thermostat.

 

Did you develop a A-833 adapter? I am interested in looking into getting one of those. I have a adapter for a LaSalle transmission, and these transmissions aren't too easy to find nowadays. To be honest, I prefer the A-833.... I have regular and OD versions in my garage.

-Jack

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Bump....

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Might send him a PM, or click on his site (QEC).

 

Thank you George

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Sorry, but my version is still on paper. Just not enough demand to put it on the front burner.
I am working on another very-Mopar specific adapter that is taking my free time.

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Oh yeah, which one is that? Please tell us.

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...not quite ready for release. Perhaps when all of the trial parts are machined and on the bench for a photo session.

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OK... OK... I will wait.... And wait some more.... But the suspense is.....

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Bump

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I think the best way to buy a Hemi is to buy a car with one in it. Sometimes you will see a old Chrysler 4 door, rust bucket going for less than 800 bucks with a Hemi. I mean after all that is what they came with. I obtain a 53 Chrysler 4 door with a Hemi for 750 dollars and drove it home. The ad for the car read, 53 Chrysler 4 door, V-8 auto, runs good. To many people, who are not into cars, a Hemi is only a V-8 motor. One issue I had with the extended block 331, is that in a chopped and channeled car they do take up a lot of room.