Hey all, I've got a Ford diff that I'm not using and after seeing the banjo rear axle end conversions I thought I'd use this diff I have as the donor. How do I tell a 9 inch from an 8 inch? It's a pumpkin-style center section. If what I have is an 8 inch, can I still cut the axle housings and fit them to my banjo as I've seen with the 9 inch ends? I know I could just buy the ends new in kit form, but hey- money's tight and I like to use what I already have. Thanks!
look at the 3rd member shapes where they bolt to the housing. the 8in will be kinda squared off on 4 sides w rounded corners, the 9in is pretty much round. i would think the ends would still work.
If you can use a socket to remove all the bolts its an 8". On a 9" you have to use a wrench on at least one bolt on the bottom side of the pumpkin.
In re-guards to the axle ends the ones on the 8 inch are what they call small bearing ends. The 9 inch Ford housing came both ways, big and little. It just comes down to what backing plates and brakes you want to use and also what bolt pattern wheel you want. The big bearing ends work well if you want to use F1 brakes on the back, everything bolts up and you have 5 on 5.5 wheel pattern.
The ring gear size has really nothing to do with axle bearing size, as most/all 8", some 9" and many later Dana-style big Ford rear axles used the common small bearing ends, for example. Your axle assembly may be worth the same, or more, than new ends, which cost about $50, so before you cut it up, you might want to learn what you have. A few pictures and measurements will help ID your axle.
Are you going to use the spider gears to accept the 28 spline axles? If so, 8 or 9 would not matter. The 8" has the small bearings ends just like the small bearing 9" rears. So I don't see an issue. So long as the axles you are using are the lengths you need.
The two with BLUE ... will have to be loosened by a wrench on a 9 inch Ford. A socket will work on the rest.
Ok 1950 I did this as you are trying to do..Cheaply. OR, as cheaply as I could do it. I spent 50 bucks on the ends from a Ford 9". With the ends I got the brakes and drums which were 11 X 2 1/4", with a 5 X 5 1/2 bolt pattern. I took the Banjo axle bells, and the ends to a machine shop. They did the final cutting and welding using a long bar arrangement to ensure that things were straight. I think I paid 80 bucks for that work. I was using a 36 Banjo, which meant I had to change the SPIDER gears from 12 tooth to 11. I got those used for 25 bucks. I then bought the SIDE gears from Hot Rod Works. They are a 28 spline gear for about $220.00. After I got all this stuff assembled, I had HRW get the axles for me using my measurements. HRW gets the axles from Dutchman. Cost was a bit under $400.00. So I spent about $750.00 to accomplish this, plus the Open drive conversion which was $260.00. Total about $1000. I'm sure with more/better research it could be done cheaper, but I don't have all the skills necessary to do so. Would I do it again,, YES. I love the thing. It gives me a great looking early axle, with modern brakes and the early Ford bolt pattern. To me it doesn't get any better. Oh, if your Banjo is 37 or later, you don't need to change the Spider gears. Jim
The back of the pumpkin on a 9" will have a raised area where the ring/pinion ride (kind of a bulge in the pumpkin) the 8" will be smooth and normally have (2) dimples in the housing (on the pumpkin) leading to the axle housing. On the axles the 28 spline will have an oblong (divot) in the end of the axle on the flange.... the 31 spline will have a flat axle end with a small 3/8" hole. The 9" did come with 28 AND 31 spline axles. The 8" was 28 spline only. The 8" is very under-rated and built correctly can handle 450 HP... If you find you have a 9" and if you are very lucky you will see a big "N" cast into the carrier (or chunk)....this denotes a High nodular carrier... used behind big-block performance cars and usually carry the 31 spline axles.... these are $$$ Tom
Cool, thanks! I'll check into all this after work if the rain stops. (Yes, it rains here) HAHA. If its the valuable 9" I won't cut it up, thats for sure.
Thanks for the link Steve, i had read that befor but just hoped for more info. There is something about this entire conversion that just escapes me, it just seems overly complicated. Time to ponder i guess, i have a high-torque combo coming together with a banjo so...
Out of interest which is better for highway speeds when joined to a c4 and a 8BA flathead?.. I have an 8 inch on my ride
This thread may ( or may not) help... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=427452&highlight=cheap+narrow+axle
While I have not done the conversion myself, I have built 8 and 9" Fords, and a few Danas. Had a few V8 rears apart too, no expert by any means. The HRW conversion seems pretty straightforward to me. Look into the Winters stuff or Speedway Engineering I am impressed with the quality of both. I tend to favor the Winters stuff because it looks a bit more authentic but both will handle some serious punishment and for not a whole hell of a lot more than an aftermarket 9".
I checked, mine's definitely a NINE inch, and without the "N". I'll pick it apart and see what's in there.
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