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Verify year of this Model A frame

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dccd, Oct 29, 2011.

  1. dccd
    Joined: Nov 1, 2009
    Posts: 156

    dccd
    Member
    from Missouri

    I have a chance to buy this frame and would like some experts to verify what it is. I'm told that it's a 1930-31 Ford Model A 2 door sedan frame. Anyone know for certain? Also, the asking price is $250, which sounds reasonable if it is all original and in good shape. THoughts?
     

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  2. trailer-Ed
    Joined: May 15, 2002
    Posts: 1,892

    trailer-Ed
    Member
    from JC, MO

    $100 too high, and all 28-31 frames are all basically the same.
     
  3. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 5,115

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.
    1. Y-blocks

    The front crossmember on a early 28 has a bigger mount near the back sticking up
     
  4. Carter
    Joined: Mar 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,522

    Carter
    Member

    There are tons of little differences in brackets, holes, etc. They are all interchangeable with minor work. There are, i think, 5 different front crossmembers alone. Can't tell anything from that picture, though. You may get better answers in the Model A section on the Fordbarn.
     

  5. trad27
    Joined: Apr 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,197

    trad27
    Member

    steering box holes on both frame rails means '28 '29, late '29 and on has four holes for the front hood shelf bolts for early and for late. There is also the frame horns on the very forward hole if it has round stamped piece it is early or late and half round is the other, cant remember off hand. The center crossmember should have arrow looking holes punched out if it is latter and square if it is AR amoung many other differences I cant recal off hand but as others have said they are all basicaly interchangable.
     
  6. trad27
    Joined: Apr 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,197

    trad27
    Member

    O yeah forgot the best and easiest way, check the vin number.
     
  7. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,921

    Fenders
    Member

    That would be a reasonable price for a nice frame here in Mass. (Basically if you can read the SN it is nice.)
    Whether it is 28-29 or 30-31 may only be important if you are restoring a Model A. The basic difference is the front crossmember (height of the radiator mounts).
     
  8. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    $250 is fine, if it comes WITH a title (that matches the frame number). If not $100.
     
  9. chopper cliff
    Joined: Aug 19, 2011
    Posts: 265

    chopper cliff
    Member
    from lodi ca

    All A frames interchangable, front c'member different in early 28 only, has m'mount on it, but if you cut it off it will be the same as the rest, no difference in rad mounts, only diff is in radiator height pu and 4 door have extra body mount at middle for bed/body mounting, 250.00 is a bit steep, but if frame no's are clear and it has a title and is not "diamon'd" bent, go for it, good steel makes a great chassis, that's all I will use on a street driven car, even boxed, it will flex with the road
     
  10. dccd
    Joined: Nov 1, 2009
    Posts: 156

    dccd
    Member
    from Missouri


    Thanks Chopper - sounds like the consensus is that the frame year doesn't really matter too much, and that $250 is a little high unless the guy has the title for it. Think I'll at least go look at it today and see it up close. - By the way, what is "diamon'd bent"???
     
  11. chopper cliff
    Joined: Aug 19, 2011
    Posts: 265

    chopper cliff
    Member
    from lodi ca

    Diamond bent is when you measure from front c' member, to back c/member in an X shape and the measurement is different, basically the frame is no longer square, means it could have been in an accident, not to fear A frames are easy to straighten and are very forgiving. food for thought, GOOD frames are getting hard to find, so if this frame looks good get it, if it has been butchered think about it. Good Luck
     
  12. chrisntx
    Joined: Jan 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,799

    chrisntx
    Member
    from Texas .

    The really bad thing about people posting wrong information is that others will believe it. Go back and read post #4
     
  13. Chally
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 155

    Chally
    Member

    $100???

    You guys get some good deals!!!

    $100 in Minneapolis will get you a rust pitted old frame...

    I'd be happy to find a clean frame [even without title] for $250...

    BTW look in the classifieds and just a title will cost you $300...
     
  14. Ghost of ElMirage
    Joined: Mar 18, 2007
    Posts: 758

    Ghost of ElMirage
    Member

    does it really matter what year it is ? Its a model A frame . $250 is a great deal I talked to a guy around hear that wouldnt budge for less than $800 I hung up on him lol cuz he was serious
     
  15. chopt top kid
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 959

    chopt top kid
    Member

    I'd say $250 is a helluva deal unless it's got big holes rusted thru the rails. The front and rear crossmembers are prolly worth that. And $250 for a good title??? What the hell have you guys been smokin'???
     
  16. chrisntx
    Joined: Jan 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,799

    chrisntx
    Member
    from Texas .

    well, DUH!
    The difference in radiator mounts alone means nothing will fit if the frame doesnt match everything else
     
  17. chopper cliff
    Joined: Aug 19, 2011
    Posts: 265

    chopper cliff
    Member
    from lodi ca

    What, exactily are you saying here, I have owned 26 model A's from AR to Late 31, so I am a bit confused????? What wrong info did I give???
     
  18. HomemadeHardtop57
    Joined: Nov 15, 2007
    Posts: 4,328

    HomemadeHardtop57
    Member

    yeah for real.
     
  19. chopt top kid
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 959

    chopt top kid
    Member

    All the Model A cars will fit on all the Model A frames. The front motor mount was redesigned early on from a one bolt to a two bolt configuration on the front crossmember and the body mounting tabs that hang off the side at the A pillar were moved on some '31 frames to accomodate some coach built cars, otherwise they're all the same.
     
  20. Blackie
    Joined: Jun 8, 2004
    Posts: 596

    Blackie
    Member

    The original poster made it sound as though he needed a specific frame for a specific year like a restoration. So it wasn't unreasonable to assume the subtle differences between an otherwise interchangeable frame would be important to him.

    $250 for a good, unbent frame is perfectly reasonable in certain parts of the country.

    Also someone mentioned an $800 frame being unreasonable. Without seeing the frame/ad I would say a top quality AR frame would certainly go for that (read previous posts for the subtle differences) Also if the frame had been hopped up (boxed, cross members, massaged etc). It would also be worth $800 to the right person.


    Sent from my POS phone.
     
  21. Rem
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,257

    Rem
    Member

    Jeez, some of you guys are too spoilt! If you times Chally's figures by 1.5 or 2, you'd be about right for over here, unless you get lucky and are in the right place at the right time. Same goes for registration documents (titles).
     
  22. dccd
    Joined: Nov 1, 2009
    Posts: 156

    dccd
    Member
    from Missouri

    Well, I bought the frame today and I'm excited. Straight as a string and 100% steel. I'm even able to read the ID number on it. Used a lot of the information you guys provided and was able to get the price down some without the title. Out of the 2 frames he had, I chose the one that still had the running board brackets and front fender brackets (looks like some other stuff on there too that I'll have to figure out if I need or not). Since I'm wanting to go without both of them, I figure I can try to sell them on the HAMB and put some money towards 1 of the sedan bodies he has for sale. I kept his information, but maybe Santa will deliver it for Christmas this year.

    Thanks to everyone who resonded back.
     

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  23. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    You did good. I guess in some places the guys are used to cheap old car parts, but in most of the places I have lived I would pay $ 250 for that one. A decent rear crossmember will fetch $ 100-$150 on Ebay. (I've bought and sold them for that)

    As for the original frames flexing, even if boxed...........no way. Mine has been under my 27 for over 23 years, just took a beating at the BP Drags, and if it were flexing the fiberglass body would be showing it. It is boxed and has custom made K members.

    Don

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2011
  24. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The engine number and frame number were the same when they left the factory. You can find the numbers, broken down by month here: http://www.mafca.com/data_eng_production.html

    This way, you can determine the exact year, without posting the serial number here.
     
  25. its a 30-31 frame
    you can tell by the brake actuator
    also there are no 26 model a's
    tk
     
  26. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Who said '26? Model A production started in 1927, sold as 1928 models. Even then, the model year started early.
     
  27. youngster
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 533

    youngster
    Member Emeritus
    from Minnesota

    Chally you gotta get out of the twin cities to find the deals. I sold 2 A frames this summer for $150 each. Have another with the horns cut off,( I have a replacement set), for $100.

    Ron
     
  28. Carter
    Joined: Mar 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,522

    Carter
    Member

    Has the lower radiator mounting pads and the radiator drain tube hole in the front crossmember which are 30-31. Also, the arrowhead shaped holes in the center crossmember.
     
  29. dawford
    Joined: Apr 25, 2010
    Posts: 498

    dawford
    Member

    Here in So. California I am happy to pay $300.00 for a decent Model A frame with a readable number and no paper.

    I girder the frames inside by welding 1 1/2" X 1/8th" strap in 6 to 8" lengths top to bottom then bottom to top and to the outside of the frame the full length of the frame except for the front horns.

    I then grind slots in the boxing plate that allow the girders to be welded through the plates so that the girders are welded on all 4 sides.

    When finished the frame is rigid enough that no additional x or cross bracing is necessary other than the original cross braces.

    This allows more unobstructed room for gas tanks, mufflers and other parts to go between the rails.

    See my Photo Album Mercruiser 470/Model A Chassis .

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=20097

    Dick :) :) :)
     
  30. VonKool13
    Joined: Feb 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,039

    VonKool13
    Member

    $250 is about the going rate for a nice frame. You are not getting a title for that price.
     

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