I have a chance to buy this frame and would like some experts to verify what it is. I'm told that it's a 1930-31 Ford Model A 2 door sedan frame. Anyone know for certain? Also, the asking price is $250, which sounds reasonable if it is all original and in good shape. THoughts?
There are tons of little differences in brackets, holes, etc. They are all interchangeable with minor work. There are, i think, 5 different front crossmembers alone. Can't tell anything from that picture, though. You may get better answers in the Model A section on the Fordbarn.
steering box holes on both frame rails means '28 '29, late '29 and on has four holes for the front hood shelf bolts for early and for late. There is also the frame horns on the very forward hole if it has round stamped piece it is early or late and half round is the other, cant remember off hand. The center crossmember should have arrow looking holes punched out if it is latter and square if it is AR amoung many other differences I cant recal off hand but as others have said they are all basicaly interchangable.
That would be a reasonable price for a nice frame here in Mass. (Basically if you can read the SN it is nice.) Whether it is 28-29 or 30-31 may only be important if you are restoring a Model A. The basic difference is the front crossmember (height of the radiator mounts).
All A frames interchangable, front c'member different in early 28 only, has m'mount on it, but if you cut it off it will be the same as the rest, no difference in rad mounts, only diff is in radiator height pu and 4 door have extra body mount at middle for bed/body mounting, 250.00 is a bit steep, but if frame no's are clear and it has a title and is not "diamon'd" bent, go for it, good steel makes a great chassis, that's all I will use on a street driven car, even boxed, it will flex with the road
Thanks Chopper - sounds like the consensus is that the frame year doesn't really matter too much, and that $250 is a little high unless the guy has the title for it. Think I'll at least go look at it today and see it up close. - By the way, what is "diamon'd bent"???
Diamond bent is when you measure from front c' member, to back c/member in an X shape and the measurement is different, basically the frame is no longer square, means it could have been in an accident, not to fear A frames are easy to straighten and are very forgiving. food for thought, GOOD frames are getting hard to find, so if this frame looks good get it, if it has been butchered think about it. Good Luck
The really bad thing about people posting wrong information is that others will believe it. Go back and read post #4
$100??? You guys get some good deals!!! $100 in Minneapolis will get you a rust pitted old frame... I'd be happy to find a clean frame [even without title] for $250... BTW look in the classifieds and just a title will cost you $300...
does it really matter what year it is ? Its a model A frame . $250 is a great deal I talked to a guy around hear that wouldnt budge for less than $800 I hung up on him lol cuz he was serious
I'd say $250 is a helluva deal unless it's got big holes rusted thru the rails. The front and rear crossmembers are prolly worth that. And $250 for a good title??? What the hell have you guys been smokin'???
well, DUH! The difference in radiator mounts alone means nothing will fit if the frame doesnt match everything else
What, exactily are you saying here, I have owned 26 model A's from AR to Late 31, so I am a bit confused????? What wrong info did I give???
All the Model A cars will fit on all the Model A frames. The front motor mount was redesigned early on from a one bolt to a two bolt configuration on the front crossmember and the body mounting tabs that hang off the side at the A pillar were moved on some '31 frames to accomodate some coach built cars, otherwise they're all the same.
The original poster made it sound as though he needed a specific frame for a specific year like a restoration. So it wasn't unreasonable to assume the subtle differences between an otherwise interchangeable frame would be important to him. $250 for a good, unbent frame is perfectly reasonable in certain parts of the country. Also someone mentioned an $800 frame being unreasonable. Without seeing the frame/ad I would say a top quality AR frame would certainly go for that (read previous posts for the subtle differences) Also if the frame had been hopped up (boxed, cross members, massaged etc). It would also be worth $800 to the right person. Sent from my POS phone.
Jeez, some of you guys are too spoilt! If you times Chally's figures by 1.5 or 2, you'd be about right for over here, unless you get lucky and are in the right place at the right time. Same goes for registration documents (titles).
Well, I bought the frame today and I'm excited. Straight as a string and 100% steel. I'm even able to read the ID number on it. Used a lot of the information you guys provided and was able to get the price down some without the title. Out of the 2 frames he had, I chose the one that still had the running board brackets and front fender brackets (looks like some other stuff on there too that I'll have to figure out if I need or not). Since I'm wanting to go without both of them, I figure I can try to sell them on the HAMB and put some money towards 1 of the sedan bodies he has for sale. I kept his information, but maybe Santa will deliver it for Christmas this year. Thanks to everyone who resonded back.
You did good. I guess in some places the guys are used to cheap old car parts, but in most of the places I have lived I would pay $ 250 for that one. A decent rear crossmember will fetch $ 100-$150 on Ebay. (I've bought and sold them for that) As for the original frames flexing, even if boxed...........no way. Mine has been under my 27 for over 23 years, just took a beating at the BP Drags, and if it were flexing the fiberglass body would be showing it. It is boxed and has custom made K members. Don
The engine number and frame number were the same when they left the factory. You can find the numbers, broken down by month here: http://www.mafca.com/data_eng_production.html This way, you can determine the exact year, without posting the serial number here.
Who said '26? Model A production started in 1927, sold as 1928 models. Even then, the model year started early.
Chally you gotta get out of the twin cities to find the deals. I sold 2 A frames this summer for $150 each. Have another with the horns cut off,( I have a replacement set), for $100. Ron
Has the lower radiator mounting pads and the radiator drain tube hole in the front crossmember which are 30-31. Also, the arrowhead shaped holes in the center crossmember.
Here in So. California I am happy to pay $300.00 for a decent Model A frame with a readable number and no paper. I girder the frames inside by welding 1 1/2" X 1/8th" strap in 6 to 8" lengths top to bottom then bottom to top and to the outside of the frame the full length of the frame except for the front horns. I then grind slots in the boxing plate that allow the girders to be welded through the plates so that the girders are welded on all 4 sides. When finished the frame is rigid enough that no additional x or cross bracing is necessary other than the original cross braces. This allows more unobstructed room for gas tanks, mufflers and other parts to go between the rails. See my Photo Album Mercruiser 470/Model A Chassis . http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=20097 Dick