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dead battery

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Baggs, Oct 28, 2011.

  1. roughneck424
    Joined: Jan 10, 2009
    Posts: 1,084

    roughneck424
    Member

    Like mentioned I use the test light between the negistive post. Then pull one fuse at a time until the light goes out. Least that gives you idea where to start.
     
  2. 2manyprojects
    Joined: Jun 5, 2008
    Posts: 201

    2manyprojects
    Member

    I always start at the fuse block. checking each fuse for a draw. at night alot of time you can see small arch at fuse
     
  3. Back in the day the acid test would to do the same deal, except spark the negative battery terminal against the post, remove 1 fuse at a time until it no longer sparked. That would be where the short was. It was an accurate test unless you had a real freaky problem going on.

    Bob
     
  4. rodknocker
    Joined: Jan 31, 2006
    Posts: 2,265

    rodknocker

    x2,
     
  5. I had the same problem, put in a kill switch on the neg cable, problem solved (kinda). Also makes it difficult for someone in the supermarket parking lot to steal your ride!!!
     
  6. My money is on the alternator having a bad regulator. The 10 and 12 SI alternators are some of the best, most reliable alternators made but even the best break once in a while. I had one go bad last winter that did exactly what the OP described. When I disconnected the alternator the problem disappeared. New alternator, problem went away. Mine is connected three wire rather than one wire but the issue is the same.
     
  7. My money is on the alternator having a bad regulator. The 10 and 12 SI alternators are some of the best, most reliable alternators made but even the best break once in a while. I had one go bad last winter that did exactly what the OP described. When I disconnected the alternator the problem disappeared. New alternator, problem went away. Mine is connected three wire rather than one wire but the issue is the same.
     
  8. Baggs
    Joined: Feb 1, 2009
    Posts: 320

    Baggs
    Member

    Great info guys, definitely know where to start. i love that i can ask a question here and get good info. im only 28 and this is my first build ever!! so having a resource liek this is awesome!! now its time to get to work!!!
     
  9. davidbistolas
    Joined: May 21, 2010
    Posts: 960

    davidbistolas
    Member

    Age has nothing to do with it, Baggs. Electrical gremlins stymie the most seasoned, grissled car builders.

    I'm doing my own harness from scratch, I'm sure I'll have a lot of head-scratching moments.
     
  10. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,910

    dirty old man
    Member Emeritus

    A test light won't always show the short when placed in series with the neg cable & post (ask me how I know), sometimes the draw can be so slight that it wont be enough to illuminate the bulb, then you must use a multimeter that measures in tenths or even hundredths of an amp.
    A tip I lerned from a "World Class" GM mechanic is to put an inline fuse holder also in series along with the meter. Install a fuse in the holder that is rated below the capacity of the meter, and it will blow before the meter is damaged.
    Dave
     
  11. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    One last thought... You said that the radio isn't hooked up. Gotcha, but is it hooked to power? Brief story, about twenty years ago I reanitmated my beloved Falcon and started driving it heavily. But, very similar to your dilemma it would drain it's battery frequently. It got the point where I would reach into the trunk and disconect the ground strap before walking into a resaurant to meet my girlfriend, otherwise, dead battery. Friends and I went through every square inch of the wiring to try to find what the problem was... to no effect. This continued for several months. One night I'm driving through Old town Scottsdale and some one had some awful pop music blaring from their car stereo next to me. I started mimicing their music with my voice, and to underscore my point I reached down to my "nonfunctional" radio to turn up the volume and I sang worse and louder. I realized as I turned the knob that the radio had been on since about '85. With no speaker and no light, I thought it had been disconected.... Wrong! Problem solved.
     
  12. Baggs
    Joined: Feb 1, 2009
    Posts: 320

    Baggs
    Member

    No, the radio is in, but no wires hooked to it. its just in there for looks haha
     
  13. bryan6902
    Joined: May 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,137

    bryan6902
    Member

    As the guy who helped wire it I will attest to the fact there should be no ignition off draws. My first thought was battery or alternator.... Another thing to do would be to unplug the electric choke when you park it and see if it still happens, since you told me it was stuck on the 1st time it happened. I 'm also thinking about that voltmeter we hooked up.... can't remember if thats live all the time or not. Thinking about the illumination part.. Park it in your garage and turn all lights off and see if that voltmeter is still lit up... This one could be my fault...
     
  14. MEDDLER1
    Joined: Jun 1, 2006
    Posts: 1,590

    MEDDLER1
    Member

    I had the same thing happen to me last year. I beat my head against the wall trying to figure it out.:D
     
  15. flypa38
    Joined: May 3, 2005
    Posts: 530

    flypa38
    Member

    Most meters have their own protective fuse inside, so probably won't get damaged anyhow. If you're concerned though, get one of the ones from HF that are free with the coupon in magazines! Disposable multimeter, accurate enough, and numbers instead of just a light too. Might give you an idea of what the draw is based on how much current is being drawn as well. All you gotta do is connect the meter IN SERIES between one of the battery cables and the post on the battery. As long as your polarity is correct when you connect the meter and your current draw is below what the meter can handle, it'll work out nice!
    I'm currently fighting the same issue. My current draw with all fuses removed and everything off is 0.014 amps. It kills the battery after about 4 days. I think it's the battery, but it's my second brand new one in six months and I've been too busy to take this one back. I guess I should have went for the better brand!
     
  16. Engine man
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,480

    Engine man
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    There is a tool called a Fuse Buddy available for under $20 and a higher current version just under $50. They have a plug that you put in place of a fuse and a digital meter to read current.

    The old trick of checking for spark at the battery terminal won't work with an alternator and computers because they use a small amount of current for a few seconds to charge capacitors and diodes.

    One thing that is fairly easy to do is to put a power relay in the main power to cut off everything except the start circuit. Control the relay with an oil pressure switch so main power is only connected when there is oil pressure. Most heavy trucks use a main power relay. It looks like a Ford starter solenoid but it's rated for constant duty. Parts stores should have one. Use the oil pressure switch to ground the relay coil.
     
  17. tommyd
    Joined: Dec 10, 2010
    Posts: 11,948

    tommyd
    Member
    from South Indy

    Been helping a buddy with a O/T 01 Bullit Mustang with a .25 amp draw that drains the battery after 7 days. Gem Modules, P.C.M's, E.C.M'S,Relays......ARRRRRGH!!!!! I would LOVE to just chase a draw in a REAL car for a change! I know I sound like a grumpy old fart but give me our old cars and life is nice and simple.
     
  18. MrNick
    Joined: Nov 4, 2006
    Posts: 302

    MrNick
    Member
    from Hemet, Ca

    I'm having the same problem. The car can sit for several days even weeks and start up fine. Then every once in awhile the battery will be dead after only a day. Every time I try the ampmeter between post and cable there is no draw. I can never find the problem because every time I check it it's fine. 90% of the time no problem. It has a new battery and alternator. Can the internal regulator draw current sometimes and not others?
     
  19. cadillac dave
    Joined: Mar 17, 2006
    Posts: 669

    cadillac dave
    Member

    As mentioned before, slime on the top of the battery will draw current from one post to the other and drain the battery. a good way to really clean the top of the battery is baking soda and water. make sure the caps are on real tight because if you get any baking soda in the battery it will hurt it. but this method will clean the battery top surface and eliminate any draw from terminal to terminal. the slime acts just like a wire connected and drains away.good luck Cadillac Dave
     
  20. MrNick
    Joined: Nov 4, 2006
    Posts: 302

    MrNick
    Member
    from Hemet, Ca

    It's not the top of the battery. The battery in my case is new and spotless. I was just wondering if the alternator's internal regulator can sometimes draw current and other times not. If so this could cause an interment problem.
     

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