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painters, questions for the pros on how to fix this

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 31Vicky with a hemi, Oct 27, 2011.

  1. Had a bad day today, what would to do?

    Got an OT work van in for some body work, 2 small metal patches, a couple major dents,
    hinge pins & new door, then scuff & shoot the whole van in white single stage enamel over a very solid factory bccc.
    I had 90 % of it done and had the clear coat blocked down to 320 and ready to paint .
    That's all good till this happened.

    The entire van got DA ed with 150. I'm still tryin.g to figure out how but it is what it is at this point. DA Busted thru the clear sparaticaly and down to bare metal in a couple dozen edges , 150 scratches everywhere and that's a lot of surface area..

    This van belongs to a friend of mine and I don't want to give him a turd, nor do I want to do aajor refinish on a work van.

    One buddy said shoot it with a sealer then enamel and be done with it, then he said if you want it right, 2 k filler primer, block and then go from there.

    What do you guys do ?
     
  2. Bigchuck
    Joined: Oct 23, 2007
    Posts: 1,159

    Bigchuck
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    I'm not a pro and have no advice,but what do you mean you don't know how it got sanded with 150? It was all ready to paint, the mysteriously got sanded with 150 grit? WTF
     
  3. niceguyede
    Joined: Jan 19, 2009
    Posts: 633

    niceguyede
    Member
    from dallas

    Enamel will cover some bad ass scratches. For a work van I would do what your buddy said.....seal it and shoot it
     
  4. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,843

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    Pics please,Without seeing it ,Id Probablly seal and reprime ,And 400 sand and reshoot,,,,I just dont understand da ing anything that is ready for paint ,I block wet,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
     

  5. I didn't do it, I wasn't there, my helper thought he was helping - mis communication, mis understanding, don't mater at this point. I blew a gasket and need to fix this problem and the hole in the roof when I went thru it. Lol

    Like I said it is what it is now.
     
  6. poopeye
    Joined: Mar 26, 2007
    Posts: 51

    poopeye
    Member

    Shoot a coat of primer, sand it with 320, seal it and...........paint.
     
  7. scottb356
    Joined: Jun 10, 2011
    Posts: 172

    scottb356
    Member

    it's going to look like arse unless you give it 2-3 coats of primer and re-sand/ da with 320-400, then shoot the color
     
  8. niceguyede
    Joined: Jan 19, 2009
    Posts: 633

    niceguyede
    Member
    from dallas

    It's a white work van....put a couple of extra coats of enamel on it. When it shrinks after a couple of weeks buff it out a little. It's a white work van!
     
  9. BOP-Nut
    Joined: Oct 20, 2008
    Posts: 746

    BOP-Nut
    Member

    I'd DA the whole thing with 150 some more, then 220, 2k prime it... block it out and re shoot it.

    Even if it's a work van why do something if you're going to do it shitty ya know? I'd be embarrassed if any one saw the van after all of those sand scratches come back up to the surface.
     
  10. Yea No shit.
    Id like to keep my friend and not spend 4 extra days on it.
     
  11. poopeye
    Joined: Mar 26, 2007
    Posts: 51

    poopeye
    Member

    Why block it. It's a WORK van right?
     
  12. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

     
  13. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,843

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    Just take the time and do it right ,I know you will.You could reprime with featherfill block and reprime and then shoot it with enamel.Probably the least expensive on your end,,,,,
     
  14. overspray
    Joined: Jan 14, 2003
    Posts: 1,417

    overspray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Depending on the paint brand you prefer, there are hi build sealers available that will have film builds around 1.5-2.0 mils per coat and have a non sanding recoat window around 72 hours. If you are using enamel (acrylic or urethane) you should get 1.5 mils per coat. Find a compatible hi build sealer, spray 2 coats and let it sit for a day (overnight), nib sand, tack it and spray 2-3 coats of color. That should give you 7-9 mils of film build which should take care of the 150 grit scratch. Even if you have some shrinkage later it should be minimal. If you have a bake booth, flash bake the sealer, let it cool, check for sand scratches and maybe lightly sand any bad spots, then spray color. White pigments are usually hi solids, too, which should help. Film build and plenty of flash time between sealer and color. That will help the sealer do a better job.

    You may have to look for compatible hi-build sealers in fleet or industrial products. If you have a good sharp paint rep he can find what you need. I have used some products from PPG or Sherwin Williams that fit the bill.

    overspray
     
  15. I though I was fucked, no money now for sure.
    Hopefully I can keep the out of pocket down to a minimum.
     
  16. matthew mcglothin
    Joined: Mar 3, 2007
    Posts: 970

    matthew mcglothin
    Member

    good point.
     
  17. Read this to my girl and she laughed just a little bit to hard.
    She's in the shower now
     
  18. He wants it straight . Them sides are huge
     
  19. RUBBERNECKKIN
    Joined: Sep 29, 2011
    Posts: 5

    RUBBERNECKKIN
    Member
    from MICHIGAN

    You could just quick DA it with 320 to "smooth" out the 150 scratches, then you can spot prime bare spots and edges. I would then smooth out the primed areas with 320, then seal and shoot it and you will be good!!!


    Yep, that's what I would do. Nice and easy.
     
  20. autobodyed
    Joined: Mar 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,943

    autobodyed
    Member
    from shelton ct

    if the 150 wasn't DAed on a 45 degree angle, just re-DA it with 320, nice even wet coat of sealer, and put 3 coats of color on it and call it a day.
     
  21. glassguy
    Joined: Feb 12, 2003
    Posts: 2,261

    glassguy
    Member


    rubberneckkin hit the nail on the head!!!!! everyones saying to block it??? i realise although its a work van, that you want it to look good.. so on those giant slab sides just make sure you hold the d\a flat!!! im sure it will be just fine
     
  22. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,825

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    Your buddy was right.(At that time) Lippy
     
  23. Schmidy
    Joined: Mar 1, 2011
    Posts: 58

    Schmidy
    Member
    from Minnesota

    I have painted for 10 years and this is exactly what I would do. DA it with 320, Use PPG DP 40 as a sealer, maybe do two coats, let flash for a good while, then 3 coats of color. Get the helper to resand it, couple hours you will be good to go.
     
  24. apound
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 542

    apound
    Member

    my thoughts exactly
     
  25. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,825

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    Oh, I thought he wanted a minimum of exspense. My bad. Lippy
     
  26. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,297

    metalman
    Member

    I agree. I wouldn't bother priming the van, I'd just resand with 320 or so , shoot a coat of good sealer (something that would go over the small bare metal areas ok) and paint it. Enamal is a LOT more forgiving then bb/cc are. We use to final sand with 220 dry all the time back in the enamal/ lacquer days.
    Personally I'd use DP-40 as a sealer, not only because it adhears to bare metal so well but it might help any swelling on the edges where the clear broke thru and DP fills sanding scratches well.
     
  27. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    i do this for a living 320 on the d,a than wet sand with a grey scuff pad, and scuff stuff (yes thats the name ) anything showing metal, hit it with some high build primer and some guide coat than re sand with a soft block and some 500 till nice and smooth than seal it,let it dry than 3 base coats of color nip it if you want (not ness) than 3 coats of clear ...unless single stage than just seal and blast your 3 coats of color ..let it flash 15 mins in between coats ..good luck
     
  28. derbydad276
    Joined: May 29, 2011
    Posts: 1,336

    derbydad276
    Member

    its a work van grab a roller lol


    320 is the way to go wet caot of sealer and grab the color
     
  29. JimSibley
    Joined: Jan 21, 2004
    Posts: 3,848

    JimSibley
    Member

    This is the right answer. i have had to fix the same mistake on a work van and believe it or not I was even spraying it in white as well. it worked just fine. look at the bright side, the paint will really stick well.
     
  30. newsomtravis
    Joined: Jun 1, 2009
    Posts: 562

    newsomtravis
    Member
    from pville, ca

    just have your helper change to 320 paper and keep on sanding, seal it all up and shoot it.....
     

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