I like to read build threads here on the H.A.M.B and there’s tons of good informative stuff from all the projects people shows so here’s my small contribution and my first built thread. My plan for this –47 Olds model 66 coupe with a flathead six and Hydramatic trans is to built it to a nice taildragger. I have had some progress on this project already but this one is from the beginning. There are a lot of pics in this one… This is how it looks when I bought the car. Some small ass wheels and tires I think it was something like 205-55-14”. When I got it home to my shop I polish the paint just to see how bad it was and change the wheels to more traditional Bf. Goodrich 6.70-15 and a set of Lancer caps. Some sunburn but otherwise a real nice and rust free coupe. Even the driver side floor was solid and underneath no sign of rust either. The chrome was decent enough too. I love those grills. Kustom from factory. These Oldsmobile’s has coil springs in all four corners and a Trailingarm set-up for the rear axle and open driveline compared to Chevy and Buick.
Wow thats really nice. I'd kill for a coupe like that, all it needs in my eyes is a nice speedboat stance and some sombrero caps.
The engine and trans was not in good shape and I try my best to get it running but no luck there so I decided to retire the whole drivetrain. Engine and Hydro out. I read all the threads here about Jag ifs and start measuring and it was the right width. These Jags are many and cheep over here so I dont have to look long before finding one but it was from a RHD XJ6 so I couldnt use the stock steering rack. I lined up the Jag rack together with a Saab rack on the floor and they have their joint in the same place so if I mount the Saab unit in the same height and distance from the Jag stub it should work out fine. I know I could have used a Mustang Two or similar setup but I have a pretty tight budget on this one and these Jag ifs are real cheep. The Olds frame is too wide with its coil spring pockets so I have to narrow the frame. I have braced the frame with some tubing before I start cutting and here are some step-by-step pics I use some 80x40x4 mm. square tubing and boxed the frame before I start cutting too much. Now its narrow enough to mock up the ifs. After some serious measurements and measurements again the ifs is in the right place hopefully Next I have to weld and brace the shit out of it. I choose to weld it in. After carefully checking that the wheels lines up well with front fender I finish the welding. My plan is to use a Chevy smallblock/700R4 combo. Yeah, I know its not the most exotic setup but thats not the Jag ifs either so An early 303 or 324 Olds Rocket should be nice but its all about money and the budget is pretty tight right now so everything points to Chevy. I bought this 1989 350/700 the other day and its a Tbi injected engine loaded with all kind of scary stuff. Miles and miles of wiring harness, hoses, sensors, egr valves, computer boxes, oxygen sensors, you name it. I know this technology is the shit with modern cars but not in a 47 Olds so I strip all the unwanted stuff off and now Im able to see the V8 engine hiding underneath. The left over I have started the mockup process and all looks fine so far. Mc from -89 Starcraft with brake pedal fits well with some minor massage.
The engine is finally on the right height. I had to lift the engine a bit and fabricate new engine mounts due to clearance problem with the r&p. I replace the Tbi intake with an Edelbrock manifold and a Holley 600 and I also had to replace the waterpump/coolingfan with another one running in the right direction and finally the computerised Hei has to go and a vacuum Hei was installed. Toe out? I had to open up a bit to get access to the frame. Some pieces of rectangular tubes were welded together to form this step notch to get the rear lower. Then I made this bridge for the upper bag bracket. Now the welding on the bridge is completed except the upper bag plate thats only tacked in place. The bridge is maybe a little overkill but just for peace in mind I added a few bars. The height on the bridge is calculated on bag height, bag brackets etc. when using bags over the axle and last but not least I need all the clearance I can get for exhaust over trailingarms and axle. It will be tight Feels like Christmas time, look what I found a turnkey 324 Rocket from by buddies 56 Olds. (He upgraded his Olds to a 455.) I had to build new engine mount etc. for the Rocket and a few steps back in my built but well worth every penny. Damn I wanted a Rocket from the beginning so Im a lucky man right now. Its a lot more feeling to have a classic Olds engine in the old 47. The exhaust manifold is upside down on the pics if someone wonders How the hell should I know, I never seen a 324 before this one
I bought a Gennie shifter for my Th 700r4 and it looks like it will fit real well on the Hydra too. Reverse is down in these Hydramatics so I have to file the index plate a bit to make it work. I made my own engine mounts in old school "Hurst" style and the right kind of Olds green on the 324. Airride on the Jag suspension. I cut the lower coil-spring bracket and welded a round plate with the bag bolt pattern. I use 2 tall cups in front.
Orn, Great job. I was just wondering the other day what had happened to your coupe. Looks like you got what you wanted engine wise and I guess you can sell the chev motor off too. I have seen photos of the 56 with the 455 in it as I want to do the same thing with my 55 olds. Both cars are nice, I can see your going to do a good job on this one. cheers.
A 10 bolt 8.5 Caprice sedan rear axle with 3.08 ratio is the perfect width for the Olds. Its exactly the same as the stock Olds axle and I think the gear ratio is ok with the hydra trans as well. I have removed all the Caprice K-link stuff and will use the trailing arm brackets from the stock 47 axle. Now Im done with all the welding at the bridge. I made two airspring "Dummies" of the right size to mount when welding to avoid damage on the real bags. The trailingarms and drive shaft needs more space when slammed so I have to cut the floor. Time to set the pinion angel. I set the angle 3.3 degrees up towards the transmission and the drive train is 4.3 degrees down. I also set the shock mounts at 90 degree of the axle and then spot weld trailingarm-mounts and bag-mounts so it holds up until its time to remove the axle and complete the welding. A pair of shock mounts and Panhard bar is the latest update. They say that you should never angle a shock more then 30 degrees so Im pretty safe here with my 29 degrees then . The only drawback with a two-link as I see it is the change of pinion angle when running the suspension up and down. Its important to set a proper ride height and stick to that before setting the angle and final welding. I set my ride height pretty low with only 4 clearance between frame and ground at the rear. The front points up a few inches for the real taildragger stance.
Thanks my friend. Im happy to get the 324 engine, just the right kind of engine for this ride. Yeah I already sold the 350/700 combo.
Grind, cut and weld, thats the story of my life the last week but now theres plenty of space for drive shaft and trailingarms Add some primer and the next step is to fabricate the trunk floor around the bridge. The trunk floor is slowly getting there A very tiny trunk compartment is getting even smaller but thats the price you have to pay for lay it low or? I had to fabricate these hatch to be able to get access to upper bag bolts and couplings. Btw, Clecos is the shit! I never liked the stock Olds square taillights so I changed them to 50 Poncho. Floor from underneath.
The former Caprice rear axles is all welded up, painted and new brakes and are now ready to get back in the car. Anyone want to taste my drive-shaft soup? This is cooking on a high level . I just had to get the damn factory glue out to be able to change the U-joints and it work like a charm. Btw the drive shaft is from a 1981 F-body and had the perfect lengths for my application. The rear axle is back in the car after all welding are done. I replaced all the brake stuff and change the hypoid oil. The bags, shocks and the drive shaft are mounted as well. Floor pan and trunk are primed. After some minor modification the rack is finally in place. The Borgeson u-joints are a little pricy but in the end they worth every penny. On the rack is a 17mm ¾ DD double joint and then the ¾ shaft with a support bearing and then finally a ¾DD to ¾ 36-spline to the steering column. The power steering pump is from a Saab as well.
An early tilt steering column with no plastic shit like modern ones. Well, this is where I am right now but the progress continuous and I will update this one with a regular basic. I must work fast before the f****g winter hits us over here. I look forward to any comments. Per Ornberg
You sir are a master! Thanks for posting all this - totally made my afternoon. Makes me proud of my Swedish side! Subscribed and looking forward to more of your progress. ~ Carl
WOW!! Theres no way you did all this today This car is perfect man, just the right amount of traditional asthetic with enough modern convenience to make it easy to drive and be reliable. btw.. those 53 caddy caps are perfect!! I cant wait for more updates
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