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60-66 chevy frame swap questions.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 48buickkid, Oct 22, 2011.

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  1. 48buickkid
    Joined: Dec 8, 2010
    Posts: 163

    48buickkid
    Member

    I looking into purchasing a 1962 chevy cab,bed,and frontend sheetmetal but no frame. I have searched on here and have not found the conclusive answer I was looking for. Will the 60-66 trucks directly bolt on to either the 67-72 frames or the 73-87 frames? I have read that the 73-87 frames have a nasty looking kickdown under the cab. So really will this cab,frontend,bed bolt directly to the 67-72 frame? If not how much modification is needed? Any help would be appreciated.
     
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  2. bjf08816
    Joined: Jul 28, 2010
    Posts: 41

    bjf08816
    Member

    If I were to do it i would try to find a 72 frame with disks on it, with the 72 you still get the coil spring rear and disks on the front.
     
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  3. jonzcustomshop
    Joined: Jun 25, 2007
    Posts: 1,927

    jonzcustomshop
    Member

    73-87 will make it look like a 4x4 by the time you are done it is about a 3 inch body lift to clear everything.
    seems like if you can find a 67-72 frame you should be able to find a clapped out 60-66 just as easy...?
    60-62 had an "X" frame, some differences from 63-66: front grille support has deeper notches on 63-66. front cab mounts are about 6 inches closer to the rocker than 63-66.
    all bed bolts and rear bed sill also are about 6 inches outboard compared to 63-66.

    67-72 the radiator core support and front frame/bumper mounts have to be changed to fit yours, not sure about the rest of 67-72 interchange....
     
  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,043

    squirrel
    Member

    60-62 frame is significantly different from 63-66 frame, the 63-66 looks a lot like the 67-72. the 73 up is a bit different but looks similar.

    As much work as it would be to swap the early cab onto the later frame, I'd be looking for a complete truck to start with.

    Some deals are just too good to take advantage of.
     

  5. 48buickkid
    Joined: Dec 8, 2010
    Posts: 163

    48buickkid
    Member

    Being from ohio and the cab has no rust everything been fixed and all the other panels are in good shape with a clear title and vin for $600 Ive seen people pay more for a bed than that and with me not having a welder having that done already is a big plus.
     
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  6. budd
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 3,478

    budd
    Member

    should not be hard to find a stock frame, i drove a short box that had been lowered and had stock front and rear sway bars, upgraded steering box from something with a quick ratio, drove like a dream.
     
  7. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    If you don't have a welder and don't have fabrication skills, the 63-66, or 67-72 will be impossible for you to get bolting anything together. The 63-66 is closer, but still will need much welding and relocating EVERY mounting point for the cab, entire bed system and even the bumpers won't bolt on...the pattern is different.

    I'd find a dry desert 60-62 and get some friends to go take a ride. It will pay off big time. Frames should be cheap there; I used to buy tons of 60-66 parts from the Oklahoma panhandle from a picker that hit all those dry states. I did upgrading on those trucks for a living for 10+ years.
     
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  8. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member


    Yes, the old guy i was dealing with said the 60-62 was the best smooth riding truck for those unpaved roads. 20 years ago, the new balljoints were not available, and many people swapped in the 63-up coil front end, but there is no reason to do that now that joints are reproduced.

    Some like to torch out all the old stuff to get discs, it's not needed with a PB booster unless you tow or haul big weight.
     
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  9. GSmith57
    Joined: Apr 25, 2018
    Posts: 2

    GSmith57

     
  10. GSmith57
    Joined: Apr 25, 2018
    Posts: 2

    GSmith57

    Will a 66 cab fit a 61-62 frame?
     
  11. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,948

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The 67/72 Chevy Truck board (not limited to those years) has a special forum section for the 60/66 trucks. Those guys live and breath those square cab rigs. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php?f=6
    I've had a few the last one being a 65 that was a work truck with a flatbed but don't get involved with them.
    I'd have to agree that without fabricating skills at least to a degree you are far better off to either hunt down a stock frame or find a more complete truck.
    One thing to ponder is that wrap around windshield is a lot more expensive than the ones in the 64/66 and that dogleg for it beats the snot out of your knee until you learn to avoid it if you are very tall.
    Then again if you are bent on getting that cab there is no rule that you have to run out and get a frame right off the bat and you can work on the cab while you look for the right frame. You can also accumulate other parts for the build. I'd bet that somewhere within a reasonable drive there is a 62 sitting with a bad cab and good frame and maybe some other good pieces that can be had for a reasonable price if you don't get in a big gotta have it now hurry. Or someone on the truck board may have a frame within a reasonable driving distance that doesn't call for using up a weeks vacation time and telling the better half you aren't going where she wanted to go this time around.
     
  12. The 60,61 and 62,s where vastly 60 thru 66 trucks 028.JPG
    different than the 63 thru 66 frames. I do have a good frame under a 61 truck. If you are getting a 63 thru 66 frame. Try and find a GMC frame. They came factory with rear leaf springs. And there isn't any serial number stamped on a GMC frame. At least ive never seen a serial number on any 63 thru 66 GMC frame? I never liked the Hyd clutch release and square master cyl on the 60 thru 62 trucks.
     
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  13. No it will not be a bolt on swap. It can be done but you will have to change the cab mounting .
     
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  14. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    Old Wolf is correct, not a true bolt on because the mount locations are different "widths"

    Take a look under and 60-62 or 63-66 cab at the body mount brace under the cab, under your feet area,..look at the front cab mount bracing.. The 60-62 has the front cab cushion and it's long bolt, closer "outwards" to the rocker panels. That welded-on cab mount support has two "steps" where a cushion "can" fit....("if" the bolt hole AND that circle shaped big washer that is welded to the top of the floor skin) is relocated, but there also needs to have a piece of pipe installed in that support, under that washer, so that the relocated bolt will not crush that sheetmetal box shape of the front cab support(s).

    Old Wolf may have a better memory that I do, on the rear cab bolt location... I am "pretty sure" it needs to be moved as well, as the 60-62 frame is wider there.

    The rear one is not a big deal to relocate, just add that pipe to prevent crushing the boxed beam that runs along the back of the cab.

    If you have moderate fab skills/welder, yes you can make it all work.
     
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  15. coach3bilz
    Joined: Jun 5, 2019
    Posts: 1

    coach3bilz

    The 60-66 fleetside truck bodies can be swapped onto the 73-91 suburban chassis. Go to www.e-zchassisswaps.com for a complete bolt on kit. I am in the process of swapping my 65 body to a 91 chassis.
     
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  16. Klc26
    Joined: Jan 10, 2022
    Posts: 1

    Klc26

    Did you ever do this frame swap I am considering doing the same with the ez chassis kit
     
  17. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,242

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

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