It's been a very busy Summer! We stopped working on the T for a bit to get the permanent electric installed in the garage...figured it would take a few weeks. well we're not nearly as fast as the pro's so it took us a few more weeks of (weekend work) to get it all in. But we've tried to make up for lost time . The adapters that we had made to fit a Ford Model A rim to a Model T wood hub were completed (thanks Chad!) With those sitting here we had to throw them on the car and see what they look like. Rims need a good Blasting but the Adapters fit great! Back to the honest to goodness work. Our magneto coils were shot! most were missing insulation and not looking so good. So we got rid of them, and the magnets too. With the magnets gone there is not much back there to fling oil so "Oil Slingers" were installed, along with a new starter ring gear. no bad teeth on this one.
The engine block returned from the shop all clean with a nice flat deck, the cylinders bored .030 over, and the new stainless valves ground and seated. But it just looks boring. Time to mask it off and get ready for some color. After 6 coats of "Old Ford" blue She looks like this A little peeling and ripping, you have a nice two tone effect going. Some Reading, and adjusting the Reground Stipe cam and the original crank get installed and torqued down. Then we got to this point... and hit a snag. Setting the Valve spacing we found that 5 of our tappets were wore down too much to reuse. To the internet to order Adjustable tappets.... Now we wait while they ship.
Drag out the Blaster! we have work to do...the engine maybe stuck in peices but we can start on the body! (or Frame) We ran out of light, and weekend before the frame was completely clean. But the parts that are clean turned out nicely for this being the first Time I've used a sand blaster Who know what the next installment will bring (or when i'll get around to posting it ) Till next time!
Great work so far! I love the front end lowering method....same one I used on our "Becker Special" T speedster. One question I have....Is that a fiber (composite) timing gear? If it is, I HIGHLY recommend replacing it for a bronze, aluminum or original steel gear before you go ANY further. The "fiber" composite gears were notoriously problematic....this is especially true in a hopped up motor. We had a fiber gear in the T speedster (.030 over, full race cam) and it chewed that gear up in the first 25 minutes. ..would hate to see you get that nice engine done and running only to have timing gear give out, making you tear it apart to replace it. Just my $.02
Clayton, I have 2 questions for you. I've heard that the aluminum timing gears are noisy. What do you have on yours and is it that noisy? The Second. What size Grade 8 bolts did you all use on the Becker Special's front end? Right now we have 1/2" ones on the front end and there is a bit of play. The Original shackles were 9/16", but they don't make 9/16" grade 8 x 6". Thanks for keeping an eye on our build and saving us problems down the line!
My roadster's current engine and the engine in the "Becker Special" both have original Ford steel timing gears...my new engine (that is currently undergoing assembly) will run an aluminum gear (a one-off cast from an original steel). I have not heard the rumor about the Aluminum gears being super noisy. The steel gears put out a little bit of "gear meshing" noise...so it can't be much more then a steel or bronze gear. I would rather have a little gear noise then a chewed up Fiber gear ...plus I can't hear it anyway over the wide open exhaust As for the shackles: you are correct on the bolt length, so if my memory serves....we bought 9/16" X 6.5" or 7". The extra length was not an issue because I extended the shackles to gain as much room between the axle and the front cross member as possible. Here is how the front shackles were done: I don't remember the exact length of the full spacer tubes (thinking 4" or 4.5"), but I will measure them tonight. This is a great build that I follow regularly and I happy to offer any help I can. Clayton
Clayton, thanks for the information. Bruce and I have already decided to use a aluminum gear. Lucky for us we are about 1.5 hours from Snyders Auto Parts, maybe we will get there this weekend. I have been planning a saltflats trip for 2013 or 2014. Maybe take Lizzy and another project for speed runs. Based on your 2012 trip we may need to move it up a year or so. My wife and I have been looking at RVs to get us out there and tow 2 cars. I am not sure what the speed car will be old or modern tuner? Price and time will help make that decision
Awesome build! Once again, I've got to comment on Clayton's drawings... I freakin' love them. Clayton, I need some drawings for my new place. A couple walls are going to be dedicated to Bonneville and Hot Rods... Linh thinks I'm crazy but I've got a greasy-fingerprinted, old torn diagram I want to get framed. Man, I wonder where it went in the move? Anyway, great build, I'll be following from now on.
Not a problem! It would be really awesome to have all three T's (my car, the "Special" and your Coupe) side by side on the salt next year! hopefully that all comes together! I didn't mention it in my last response, but the lowering method you are using will require you to modify the wishbone. I will take some measurements off the one I built for the "Special" and some photos. Lol! Thanks Brent! I think I can hook you up with some of my drawings...will have to go through all the ones I have and send them your way.....maybe even do up some custom ones for ya ...have a new one I'm working on for my new front and rear suspension setup on the roadster too ...oops, didn't mean to hijack
I don't think I've ever seen a T coupe built in this style. This is very cool and I will be taking notes for my roadster ('27) build! Press on fellas!
Having just traded off the only Model T I've ever owned (missing it and thought I wouldn't) I've been following your build with great interest. Hope you make the Bonneville trip as I'm planning on going myself next year. Maybe I'll get to see your car first hand. Frank
xrw urabus, Crazybillybob: took some measurements off of the front shackles on the "Special" for you and made up another drawing that is a little clearer: I also took some pictures of the wishbone setup on the "Special" for you. The wishbone in its original configuration would interfere with the pan with the lowered shackle setup, so I split it....added the spreader piece and two short extensions and welded the ball back on in the middle of the extension. Hope this helps
This weekend we only spent a little time working in the garage... and bad weather kept the sand in the bucket We also didn't get over to Snyders to pick up the tappets or cam gear. But the Nice Folks at L.D. Becker Auto Electric sent out a Nice surprise. A new one wire Alternator. This fine piece of engineering will bolt in place of the stock T genny! We also started the Installation of the oil dippers. Yes, this means that the new aluminum Pistons and rings are slipping into place as well. My 4 year old nephew helped out and installed one of the pistons. (I was too greasy to gab a camera this time ) We did manage to get all of the pistons and dippers in place before he got too bored. (yes the pictures are fuzzy, still managed to get assembly lube on the camera lens ) Hopefully we make some more progress and get this engine back in the pan where she belongs!
We're working up some new Ideas, and reviewing some changes in Plans.... If it all Works out the Car will be done Quicker then originally planned, and with some "new" hardware We're still in the discussion and planning phase, as things work themselves out we'll let you know. For the most part the look of the car will be the same, it will just run better. I've been out of town so we haven't made any big progress during the week, pretty normal.. but we did get this in, and I had to post up a quick teaser shot. What do you think....Better then the old rusty Vaporizer we pulled off or is it too much CBB
Nice work guys! What carburetor is that manifold set up for and what cam do you have in this engine? What size pistons/valves and what ignition system are you planning to run? That looks like an awful lot of carburetor...this might be a bit much for "Lizzie"
Clayton, We have a stipe reground cam. the Pistons are .030 over. The Intake is setup for a Weber, but with a little adjustment we could put an earlier Ford Carb on it (think they were mostly Holly or similar). If we stay with the Weber it would be like a 32/34. The Earlier Ford would be more authentic, but would also be more work to get jetted down so we don't drown poor Lizzie's motor. Most likely it will end up being what we can get to work the best. We may need to call in some expert help to set and then fine tune any carb we use... the jet sizing and idle, high, low settings all makes my head spin...
What grind did Stipe put on that cam? Is it a .280 grind, a .300 full race grind or something less aggressive then .280? My original motor for my roadster has a .280 cam and ran great with a single-barrel downdraft (Autolite 1100, Zenith 228, Carter W-1/W-O, etc) I tried switching the carburetor out for a slightly larger version of the Autolite 1100 (had a slightly larger barrel dia. and larger jets and it wouldn't hardly run at all.....would barely idle and if you gave it any throttle...it would die....Just puked black smoke too. I put the other smaller carburetor back on, it ran great! My new engine is bored .080 over, has the most aggressive full-race cam I could have ground for it, 302 Hi-Po valves and a Bosch DR4 racing mag and is being setup with 2 Stromberg 81's 2-barrels. I had the 81's built to accompany this new engine (a small 'banger)...but I still am nervous about them being too much. The motor will be more than capable of handling that much fuel...but I've never seen a flathead T motor with twin 2-barrels Even if you have big pistons, valves, a nasty cam, etc....a good hot spark is the most important part. There are way to make this work, but a Weber or other 2-barrel might still be too big.
We went with the .280 cam. We're also planning on using the "True Fire" ignition, and converting the car to 12V...While not completely period correct... you'll never see the true fire as it's made to hide in the coil box, and it will give us a good hot spark. The Z head we pick up tomorrow has 14mm spark plug holes to allow modern plugs to be ran. I'm a bit worried about too much fuel coming in from the carb, but I'm told we can always go with a smaller carb or really little jets. But that's the part I need some help with.. I'm not a carb guy (yet )
Hello all, Bruce has been having all the fun lately. So it is my turn to update somethings. Last night we put the new adjustable single nut tappets, springs, retainers and clips. We made a few purchases this week. The manifold that Bruce posted a few days ago. We are contemplating an adapter from the 2BBL to 1BBL. Slight modification and it will be good, we should just have to clean up all the openings. We also picked up our aluminum timing gear, Z head and header (from Red's Headers). Here are some dry fit pictures. Bruce has been sandblasting the pan and timing cover to get ready for paint. I read Bruce's post about a change...we are currently researching 1937 Hudson Terraplane for a Hudson/Model T mating project (I will let Bruce explain that one).More to come.......
^^BCCHOPIT I visited your site and really like your work. I will keep you in mind for the next project.
Sunday evening we did get a little more work done. Bruce sandblasted the pan, timing cover and some bolts. Then prepped them for paint. Here they are later with some paint applied. Here is the latest project/thought....I have a extra 1937 Hudson Terraplane 3spd transmission. Clayton gave us a very vague "how to make a OD transmission for the model T from a late 30s trans". Anyone have any thoughts or ideas on this? Is it a good idea or just purchase a warford or jumbo (pick an aux trans) for the "T". Any help or info would be appreciated. Thats all for now. Jim
I know the information is out there, but I'm having trouble finding it. Does anyone have the Gear ratios for the Chicago mark-e, and the Jumbo Giant auxiliary Transmissions? I want to know how they stack up against the Hudson and Warford.
Strikes me as a little odd you would go to all the trouble using the original "T" parts and then put a modern alternator on there. Wouldn't a rebuilt generator provide plenty of juice?
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