I was reading the naked wagon post and thought how nice it must be to start with fresh clean metal. There was a place here in OK City that used to do it but I had dropped a T body off there and was less than pleased at the results. People don't generally tend to take the pride that you or I would on our own projects. Then the cost around here is really high. I think the last time I was quoted on a car inside and out was over a grand. So I just wonder what is so special about the nozzles and equip? If a guy had some chainlink fencing material (tubing) you could build a frame and build a plastic covered spray/ blast booth. Anyone know about this methods of blasting?
A very close friend of mine is in this business(well, he STARTED with media....now everything is blasted with aluminum oxide) The killers of home media use are the volume of air needed AND the high cost of material(which necessitates recycling to be cost efficient) Another drawback is plastic media is pretty ineffective in removing heavy rust. PLUS, it's hot, nasty, time consuming WORK Just my two buckets full, from my friend's comments.
you would need big compressors to keep up , plus the cool suit you would need, you cant just stand in there with a dust mask on,and the stuff you blasted can be regarded as hazardous waste in some states, could be done,part time business, alot of people would find that service usefull ,
Chris, i just had the coupe I bought from you blasted with aluminum oxide.(more on this later) Cost me $480.00 I had the 62 blasted with plastic bead. I liked the surface better with the plastic bead but plastic does not remove filler or rust, just exposes it. Sand is too agressive generally for sheet metal. Heat generated by friction of sand hitting the surface can create warpage. The alum oxide does a great job removing filler and rust, but leaves a etched surface. This surface does provide a bite for primer, tho There is another method of using soda, but I have not seen any one do this, except an outfit in Tulsa, Ok. I have seen samples of their work and it looks ok. (with this method, you have to maintain a dry atmosphere or the soda tends to stick together like buiscuit dough.) Now to the question of whether you can build a blast toom? The answer is yes. Nozzels depends on the media chozen. Talk to an equipment sales rep. on this. The fellow who did the coupe built a pole barn, sheeted with corrugated metal on the outside, and sheeted on the inside with plywood. He hangs plastic sheeting (thick) on the side and has plastic sheet on the floor for material recovery. Your plan for a blast area sounds like something that would work. Media recovery is something to be considered if you wnat to reuse it. You could use any slick finished material for the walls and floor, but you will want the seams at the wall and floor sealed. Lighting will be needed and so will a dust recovery system. It will be a costly venture for just one vehicle. You could use a pressure blaster outside but will waste a lot of media. He has used several compressor types, but currently uses an industrial type like construction companies use (on wheels) Your greatest concern will be a drier and moisture trap. Then, you will want the vehicle you blast free from grease and oil. both slow finish removal. You probably already know that. Grease, oil, road tar, and other petroleum distallates deflect media which prevents it from doing its intended job. I had the frame of the coupe blasted with the alum. ox. and then had it powder coated. cost less than primer and paint would and looks great with no drips or runs. Had the satin black finish. The body, doors, hood, and front fenders are now in primer. Working on clean metal is nice. Jim
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/5/007/article/Build_Your_Own_Grit_Blasting_Cabinet.html the article written By George of FTE. Granted you want to build a room big enough to do a body I suppose? The article may help with answering some of your question. -The Catholic
Walnut shells. I've never used them (I sandblast "small" parts outside), but I've had bodies media blasted with walnut shells & they came out clean, & free of rust & filler. I have no idea what equiptment is needed or how much they cost. If no too much, though, I could see the possibility of doing it in a plastic "tent". HTH, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" America - made in China! :-(
Whenever I have to clean up something that wont fit in my blast cabinet ( like a rear end or a frame) I go to Home depot and buy a roll of some heavy clear plastic. I lay it out on the driveway and set the part on top of it then fold a layer back over the top. I roll the edges and close them off with spring clamps then stick a 2 gallon bucket of media in there and use one of those cheapie siphon fed blast guns. I just stick my hands in there with gloves and long sleaves and blast away. Its kind of a pain in the ass cause when you run out of media in the bucket, you have to scoop it back in but it works and really controls the dust.
I know it's not cost effective for a production type setting but I am looking at just doing say...the hood of a car then later the doors, and eventually the bare shell. My compressor would never keep up, but I have more time than money....so I could wait for it to catch up. Aluminum Oxide would be a thought....
Yeah, Media blasting can get a bit spendy. The wagon had undercoating on the underside. That had to be removed before the media. "as to not contaminate." Then the whole car was plastic blasted. Plastic does not "open" the pores of the metal. The areas that had some slight rust will be hit with Aluminum Oxide. The whole car inside and out, doors and decklid. Cost me 1300.00. But it is giving me a clean slate to use. Next comes sealer, and ceramic insulating on the floors, top and bottom, and the inside of the firewall and roof, also the inside of the doors. Super quite and cuts the heat big time.
Wow, impressive claims. Wonder why it's so high? I'm sure it is available in it's original state (before marketing). They claim it to be Aerospace Technology.....gonna hafta start asking around.
Hey Root, glad you brought this up. I am doing a similar thing out behind my house. Mine will be weather resistant motorcycle garage but the principal is the same. I'm using this from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42211 and bonding a tarp to the bottom (it has sides and doors but no floor) for a weather-resistant floor (or good for trapping and reusing media). I think this would make a great enclosure for what you have in mind. Just run an air hose out to it to power your blaster, put on your respirator and go to town. Oh, and it's currently (and is about every two months) on sale for $100 off.
Hey Root,A few t-posts and a good tarp around 'em and a small bucket blaster works well for doing small stuff.Sugar sand is very cheap(most good lumber yards have it) and removes rust and all but need to be careful and not get in a hurry on large flat spots(heat and warpage and all that)Soda is kind of expensive but an added advantage of it is the soda blasted parts are very rust resistant for a long time.One disadvantage is it will turn any grass it contacts yellow and it isn't really recycleable.You know how this Okie humidity can make bare metal rust, LOL. I have a freind down here that does blasting and powder coating for a reasonable price.Give me a shout if you need to get something done. A little O/T how about that little digger Ted and the boy's are puttin' together in T-Town eh? T.OUT
If you are looking to do this commerical style, you'll need more than plastic for your walls. Can't remember the exact PSI on the system at the shop I use, but it's enough to blow a hole in solid sheetmetal in about ten seconds if you stay on the same spot. Other thing to remember is that it's loud. Really, really freaking loud.
I have a 100# hopper sand blaster. It works ok but I was thinking of trying a different media through it. Maybe one that cleans a little better than silica sand.
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