I am rebuilding a Holley 94 7RT carb. How do you remove the link bar from the acceleration rod? Also, this carb is not marked as a 7RT but my research seems to indicate that it is. So if a carb is not marked in the little circle where I think the ID should be, how does one go about ID'ing a carb with some certainty. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.
It clips in there just give it a tug As for i'd, a 94 is a 94, but first off it should have a vacumn port for distributer vacumn if 49 or later
It does have the vacuum port so it's a 49 or later. But where do I go from here to confirm its ID. As yyou know, it could be a 7RT, 8BA, EAB, EBU, etc. Not even the venturi size is marked. Although I could make a measurement. As for the link bar, I can't get it to pop off and I don't want to force and break it. Any other idea's on how to get it off? Thanks.
Maint RT dif from passenger carb is the linkage...I don't mess with this late model stuff much, but from memory I believe truck choke has ball hookup like earlier Ford and extended throttle shaft on left for hand throttle? RT and 8BA had the '39 up style nozzle bars...inverted V, brass jet thing at center. There should be a size designation cast on somewhere, decimal..fractional or both...find that to see if 94, as many later carbs are NOT .94 and so not really 94's. If nozzle bar has high point at rear rather than center, it would be at least '52-3, and fat secondary venturis on bars with increased bore size make it ieven later, and of course not .94. It would take careful reading of the parts book charts to be sure, but I believe 7RT, 8RT and 8BA carbs are the same in terms of metering parts...only linkage style differs. I think the missing model info on bowl means that it was either a replacement carb sold directly by Holley or the later Ford replacement carb that had all fittings and linkage bits packaged so that it could serve as the generic replacement carb for a vast number of both early Ford and '49 up applications. By the way, look for makers mark at bottom of outer wall of the accel pump..."F" Ford made or "H" Holley made?
The throttle rod has the choke type lever with ball. The nozzle bars are pretty much even or the same height f/b or b/f (don't know how else to say it). And it definetly has an "H" stamped on it. So to me it looks like a crap shoot as to what it is. Any other thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks for responding.
Im running 3 7RT's on my 57 and they sure dont match up with each other. Primary carb has the long venturi's like the ECG's the other 2 have the short ones. I think over the years people just use whats there to make it work.
Most carbs of the general 94 family have made a few trips through big commercial rebuilders that did a zillion carbs at once with all parts stirred together and reassembled by just grabbing anything that would screw together...
I just want to say that I downloaded a pdf file titled "Ford AA-1, Holley 2100-DD, 2100-EE and 2110 Service Manual" from the carburetor doctor yesterday. the cost was $9.99 and is FULL of good Holley carb information. The manual & the response's I received here on HAMB, confirmed my carb to be 7RT. But the response I received from Bruce Lancaster really threw a wrench in the works. I suppose one could make careful measurements, a through visual inspection against spec sheets to satisfy himsef that what he has is what he really wanted! Or go with what he's got, install it on the vehicle and see how it performs. Any thoughts anybody? Thanks.
I'd be careful with this (taking the accelerator pump lever off). I've had a few of these, and some have a small spring clip that holds it together, and some don't. Every one I've seen has a detent ball in the accelerator pump shaft. I broke one trying to take it apart. If it doesn't come apart easily, hit it with some PB Blaster, Kroil, or something of that ilk and let it sit a day or two to free the spring-loaded detent ball.
All the 7RT marked truck carbs I've come across have "V" shaped ring on the top where the air cleaner was clamped on with a "V" band clamp, while the car carbs have a straight top where the air cleaner slipped over and was held with a flat clamp.
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