I just done did some pinstriping around some flames on my '54 Chevy and I was wondering if it's OK to put catalyzed urethane clear over it? I just started messing with pinstriping last week, nothing complex just outlining shit and I have to say I'm not too shabby at it. Me and the missus were drinking beer last night and striping the bottle holders, it was fun. Her stuff's really feminine, all curlicues and art nouveau looking. This fucking car's killing me man. BTW, I just had a molar pulled, a root canal and I'm still not done, it's costing a bundle, but the pain was unrelenting. There's a huge hole in the side of the wisdom tooth. The anaesthetic's wearing off and my whole head's throbbing. I hope the doc prescribed some good pills for me.
Yes as far as I know, if not I will surely be corrected. I've heard of several painters "burying the stripes under clear" so after you color sand and buff the whole thing it looks like one smooth piece of glass. Drew
i've seen it done, apparently it's tough, and light, very dry fogging will eventually bury it. (note; that's 'fogging'...)
Dust the first few coats on DRY,then spray it wet;and pray. Catalizing the 1-Shot helps,but doesn't guarantee success.
it is generally recommended that you put some hardener in the 1shot if you're gonna clear over it to reduce the risk of the clear reacting with the enamel and causing it to run or bleed. even then, you gots to fog it in man...
Nads had the bike rear fender striped and then covered in 2pack laquer with NO problems. I am supposing that our 2pack is your catalyzed urethane. John
What kind of hardener? Any urethane type or what? The striping's only been on the car since this morning, it's not too late to remove it. Will the hardener affect the flowability of the One Shot? Thanks for all your advice dudes.
alot of the lifting problems of clearing over a fresh stripe job is due to the paint under the stripe no being sanded. any time i have to do it where i could not have the striper and hardner to the one shot it to bake the car after going over with a grey scuff pad then blow 2-3 light coats of clear over the stripe making sure each coat flashes off. just use enough light coats to complety seal off the one shot. let it dry for about 1 1/2 hours then go in and clear as normal.
The base has been sanded real good with 800 and cleaned really well too. I'm not having a real hard time laying down long flowing lines but the curves between the flames are a little tricky. It's hard to take the brush in a circle, any tips? PS, I'm not about to put Caffeine or Barnett or any of the other brilliant pinstripers on this board outta business. I'm just a hack having fun with about $20 worth of material......and this really is fun. I'm truly enjoying my little dabble with pinstriping, it's almost Zen. I wish I woulda started doing this years ago, I'd be almost mediocre by now.
use the same hardner in the same precentage that you would in the clear. about 1 drop of hardner to a reduced pallet of paint seems to work for me.
Howdy Chuck, I'm so sorry you have such a tiny head, less space for your walnut sized brain to roll around in, just kidding. When's my wife getting back with the good shit?
To further eloborate on what's been said...as long as the car was scuffed, before you striped, you'll be able to clear over the One Shot. Give the One Shot a solid day or two to cure, then dust a couple of dry layers of clear on before laying the clear on in it's normal thickness. The only time I've had problems was on a bike tank I striped and the shop (NOT FlyRite, by way) didn't want to wait until the next day...they shot the clear and it did alright, but it did lift a cople of spots...not bad considering they didn't even wait 12 hours.
Dry coat first works. Harner good scuffing good. I did one without scuffing or hardner just did the first coat dry as hell then wet like ol Unki said.
If the 1-Shot is WET,you can spray anything on top of it no problem. Once it starts to set up,the problem is the solvent in the clear reacting with the resins in the 1-Shot. Just like if you dump straight Lacquer thinner on dried 1-Shot, it wrinkles and lifts.
Besides the hardner, it depends on how long the one-shot had to "dry-out". If it was fresh and didn't have hardner, I would avoid clearing over it. If it was a few months old, and had been exposed to direct sunlight in the summer months, I would clear over it, as long as it had been prepped right first. We never had problems with the clear reacting to it. We used either PPG 2020 Clear or the cheap knock off from their sister brand Omni. We had several cars that had custom stripes laid down that ended up with collision damage. The car was probably striped by a striper from the dealer when new, or just thereafter (I recognized some of the signatures)...and after repair work, when properly prepped we had no problems with bleed out or adhesion when cleared over. After we re-sprayed the damaged panels, we would have our striper come in and duplicate the original stripes to match the rest of the car. No one ever noticed that half the original stripes were buried in clear and the damaged parts were re-stripped on top of the clear; but keep in mind, these were new cars, not show cars...people who don't know anything about cars, but had "custom pin-striping" thrown in as a selling bonus. They were more concerened about the paint mathing than the stripes...or that change hadn't been stolen out of their ashtray. I always thought..."in 10 years when the rest of the stripes are wearing off the damaged parts, the cleared over stripes will still be crisp, someone will know exactly what's been replaced on this car..." But that's me and I'm anal.
Nads, I wanna see this car in person. When you making a trip this way<<<<<< speedy P.S. post some pics man. Quit holding out.
This is turning out to be a great thread, I hoped in with a little comment I got from hear say and in turn several different painters have added their methods of doing this. Man everyday I'm on the HAMB I learn somthing new. Drew
The solvents in the clear coat will soften the striping and the basecoat. If u have enough hardner in the base and clear over the stripe in the first few hours u shouldnt have to fog any of the clear. This is same as wood graining garnish mouldings.
Speedy, I don't want to post any pics until it's done. The plan was to have the car ready to drive out to The Round Up, that's not gonna happen. I'm not gonna rush to meet a deadline. next year I'll be there come hell or high water. We had multiple probalems whilst painting this car, I learned many valuable lessons. The most valuable one being that I should've gone paint shopping with Sean before he ever laid the first coat on. It's obvious that the cute girl at Finishmaster sold me single stage paint, which once it's catalyzed is impossible to paint over until it's sanded. I musta sanded this car 5 times now. It's also a good idea to spend the extra money and go with the best paint you can buy. I used Nason, which is far better than the old fashioned lacquers that I'm used to but not as good as the top of the line Dupont stuff. All of this has been a learning experience for me, next time, if there ever is one, it will be a lot easier. Wish me luck.
yeah we do it all the time in our shop here in kustom city kansas, just dust a "tack" coat on let it set for 5 or ten mins the put a med coat and final wet coat and youll be fine, just dont try to cover it in the first coat or youll have problems!! good luck
Hey guys, i just contacted 1 shot before i found this link. But here is the question i asked and the great answer i got. Im a total newbe when it comes to 1 shot but am looking to buy some from a distributer here in eugene oregon. Im in the process of painting my truck and its going to be black midway up and green the rest of the way down. Im looking to run a stripe or 3 of 1shot to split the 2 colors and maybe have some parts pinstriped later on down the road. So do i need to scuff the clear coat and the do the pinstriping then shoot urethane clear over it later on or do i even need to scuff it or clear over it? My two big concerns would be that pinstriping with 4007 Hardener added to the paint is not for the uninitiated, and there's a learning curve there. The addition of 4007 however is required if you're going to try and topcoat 1 Shot with urethane; and in fact the spraying of urethane over catalyzed 1 Shot can even be a bit tricky, That being said, I'm going to suggest that as a "newbie", you go ahead, paint your truck and clear it. Let that clear dry for at least a week before you start pinstriping (any sooner and there's a good chance that the 1 Shot will "etch" itself into the clear, and if you try to wipe up a mistake or change a stripe...it could stain the clear). Let me know if I can be of additional assistance. "Louie" 1 Shot / Chromatic Technical Support
You blow on a couple of light coats first. Blow them on real dry. That seals the one shot and protects it from the solvents, then after you blow it on just like you normally would.
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