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Dealing with the rust

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by usmile4, Aug 9, 2011.

  1. usmile4
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 690

    usmile4
    Member

    I'm rebuilding the inner wheel housings on my 51 Chevy and then will be welding on outer quarters wheel arch panels that I got from RockAuto. In rebuilding the wheel housings, I don't have metal working tools so I've used a series of hammers and pliers to make bends and form the pieces to the approximate shape of the the rusted out pieces. In order to make the bends on the lower edge to follow the curve of the wheel arch, I found I had to make some relief cuts so I have pieces that from a distance match the look of what is rusted away, but up close show a series of cuts and bends. I'm using a weld thru primer on the backs of all the pieces that will be sealed up after the outer skin gets welded on.

    My questions is what should I do with the seams and the relief cuts on my hammer formed inner pieces? t
    There are still some areas where I think moisture could get in since it is the inner wheel housing. Before I seal up the fender, should I use some All-Metal or Kitty Hair or 3m Seam Seal to help slow down the moisture? After the outer panels are on, I still will have access thru the trunk so I plan on getting some paint in there but should I use a spray on undercoating material like was used originally?

    Thanks for the continued help.

    Bill
     
  2. I guess it depends on how much driving you pal to do in your Chevy! You can have pretty yucky weather where you live, just like us here in Sweden. I'd use some kind of rust protection and I am using it on my rides, so if I want I can drive them year round.
    Do you have any pics of you work?

    Klaus
     
  3. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,214

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    I always make sure the backsides are as clean as possible, and brush or spray on some POR-15 or similar rust preventative. Even if you have to tape a brush to a paint stick, or bent tubing to get in tight spots.
    If the areas is subject to abuse, like inner wheel wells, floor bottoms, or for extra protection, after the second coat of POR, I'll shoot on undercoat or bedliner.
     
  4. turn your spray gun to "garden hose" setting and blast primer and paint onto the inside of the panel till it runs out. then use seam sealer over the primer in the wheel well any where you can reach. prime over the sealer, then paint, then undercoat.
     

  5. Turbos10
    Joined: Aug 8, 2011
    Posts: 55

    Turbos10
    Member
    from Texas

    Ditto on seam sealer process. Just make sure you dont seal up where it should drain and make a water tank out of it.
     
  6. POR-15 won't stick to clean new metal very well.
     
  7. voodoo1
    Joined: Jun 27, 2007
    Posts: 452

    voodoo1
    Member

    I have mixed POR-15 with reducer or Xylene, and put into spray bottle to spray up into the areas that are hard to reach. Works great. Just spray until it's covered.
     
  8. usmile4
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 690

    usmile4
    Member

    What ratio do you mix?
     
  9. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    motor oil.
     
  10. better off with chain saw bar oil, wax base and sticky.
     
  11. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    But what you going to do with that old oil that you just changed out!
     
  12. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    That's my thought:rolleyes:
     
  13. Inner Panel Rustproofing by Kent Industries or Body Wax made by Wurth, after you seal it with paint or sealer (weld through primer).

    It seeps through the seams to protect the panels from future rust/corrosion.

    I have used this for years when replacing panels and door skins. Its the same stuff the automakers use in the new cars. Any good body shop uses this for panel replacement repairs in the weld areas.

    Dont use any type of body filler unless you will be sealing it on both sides, otherwise it will soak up any moisture available and seperate from the panel.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2011
  14. Adam.Perrault
    Joined: Nov 10, 2009
    Posts: 124

    Adam.Perrault
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    The Body wax is available again from Wurth. It was out of stock in germany for 6 months... Had quite a few customers mad because we couldn't get it in. I have only one recommendation on this stuff. If you are in a hot climate be careful where you spray it and how much. It is wax and will melt and drip. It is not for headliners!!! I did soak the inside of my framerails and body pannels on my galaxie and have only had a little drip all summer but it is not that hot here in portland either.
     
  15. Cymro
    Joined: Jul 1, 2008
    Posts: 755

    Cymro
    Member

    A product called "Dintrol" is highly regarded here in the UK as well as the aforementioned POR15, I've always used a product called Waxoyl, there are several grades of dintrol for different applications, it is reputed to have a better creep than other products. Check out the classic car forums for more info.
     
  16. 3M Rust Fighter I it stays tacky and never drys. Moisture repels off of it.
     

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