Well I keep going back and forth on what to use on the frame. I have used rustoleum in the can before. Now I was planning on using rustoleum through an air gun but my work started carrying this can from eastwood called "chassis black" its satin. Anyone use it before? Its $13 a can.
I heard chassis black takes forever to dry. What is kbs and where can I get it? I really dont want to deal with the mess and everything else of por15
just did my 51 shoebox frame, had it sandblasted, did the whole thing with POR15 used less than half a quart!Stuff is amazing, brushed it on with a good 2" brush
I got a satin black chassis paint from the local Auto Value parts store for the frame on my '62 Monterey. It was PPG's Specialty Performance Products Bumper Black (SX1041). About $60 a gallon if I remember correctly. Single Stage, Easy to shoot, with excellent coverage. Looking through their paint isle recently, I noticed they were carrying this stuff. I have never used it, but it seemed to be getting positive reviews.
mess of por15? what mess? slather it on with a cheap brush, it flows out most of the brush marks, then throw away anything left remaining. If you spray it on then theres some gun cleaning, but that goes with anything.
You can also go to Tractor Supply and get there low gloss black tractor enamel. Its good stuff and its only about $30 a gallon.
Remember we talked at your work last Sat. about inexspensive paint? I bought a Rustoleum product called "Satin Enamel" from Home Depot. Product link --> http://rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=25 It comes in a spray. I blasted my parts, brushed on POR-15, let it get tacky, then I sprayed them in the Black Satin Enamel. It looks factory. If you are doing an unblasted frame, use primer instead of POR-15.
question for the guys that have used the por-15.. if i had my frame sand blasted and then sprayed a thin layer of rustoleum primer on the frame, can i put the por-15 over that primer ? thanks in advance
now you got me unsure... i have my frame almost ready for paint.. and i only want to do it once... ive seen the por 15 as a finished product and it looks damn nice,,,
The only bad about por15 is that it fades and turns like a grey and if you get it on anything it wont come off.
See there must be something else I can use that isnt as exspensive. Whats the point of applying por15 if I have to paint over it again?
Actually it only need to be topcoated, if it will be exposed to the sun (UV rays). On most cars, that isn't an issue.
x2 My chassis is on it's 4th year with por-15 without a top coat. Still black as can be. uv exposure and you def want to top it.
I used Eastwood Chassis Black on my 62 frame. I had it sand blasted, prepped it and primed. I sprayed the Eastwood Chassis Black over DP90, When I did the 62 frame, DP90 was still available and provided a nice foundation. DP90 or its newest formulation can and has been used on frames with success. On a frame primer works fairly well on its own. It could be clear coated. By itself any primer is not easily cleaned if you would want to clean the frame from time to time. On a daily driver, cleaning the frame probably is not an issue. A slick finish, whether on the frame, inner fenders, or on body surfaces is easier to clean than flattened or primed surfaces. When you weigh cost, factor in usability and go for the long run. Doing something on the cheap, sometimes means doing it over at another point. then, your combined cost is usually greater than if you had done it correctly in the first time around. Rustoleum would work. Caution, again when figuring the project, consider the results you expect and how long you would want it to last.
Rustoleum is for the dreaded "Rat Rodders". A chassis of a car gets about the worst abuse you can possibly imagine. Under the car, subject to stone chips, road gunk, salt, sand, heat from the blacktop, exhaust system, leaks from oil, grease flinging off front end parts, etc. Why use an inferior product to protect it? IMHO, most spray can paint is inferior paint. Products not intended for automotive use, except industrial paints, are not made to stand up to the elements, like auto stuff. In most cases, to be tough, paint needs to be catalyzed. Chemical hardening, versus air drying, makes paint much more chemical, and abrasion resistant, perhaps UV resistant, as well. There are exceptions, POR-15 for instance, used the moisture in the air to cause the isocyanates in it to harden. That's why you also have to wear a respirator when using it, try to use it outdoors, as well. Eastwood's Chassis black, is an OK paint for spray bombs, but will never be as tough as any enamel, with a hardener added, be it Centari, Imron, SIngle stage uro, or BC/CC. You notice Eastwood now sells a Chassis Black set-up, for spray guns, that comes with hardener? The cheap way out is never going to be the better way to do things!
I am contemplating on por15 but my frame is pretty clean now and that por wont stick to it if its clean.
You guys are mentally playing with yourselves. POR is great. You can apply it on clean metal, but it's intended to go over rust. Will NOT chip. Once it's on, it's on. If you get fancy and blast the frame, I would prime it w/epoxy, then you can get anal and fill in all the pits if you like, prime, block, paint.
Ok, well guess I will have to try it. I cleaned my frame with a wire wheel and most rust and grime is off. Im not going to blast it. So what will I need to use to clean it before application? I dont.think Ibwill need to prime it then. Also I live in california, any places in SOCAL that I can by this in a store or shop?
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/ It's like POR15 on steroids. And a touch cheaper to boot. Their frame coater kit will be more than enough to cover your needs, and its $60 well spent.
Kind of pricey but does look pretty promising. The whole chassis kit is about $85 not sure if I need all of it? Also does this stuff fade by sunlight like por15 does?
My POR coated frame is still plenty black. Nice thing about my body on top of the frame, it blocks most UV light
The Jalopy Journal
