I use old wood chisels and screwdrivers to open up seams as far as possible to allow the POR to penetrate, then hammer and dolly them flat again, when replacing floor pans I avoid lapped seams like the plague, and butt weld as much as possible, however it would seem kind of silly to do an expensive prep and epoxy spray on the remainder of a floorpan after trusting the most rust prone areas to a brush applied coating of POR-15. Thus far I have never employed POR on any major exterior panels, except for my utility trailer fenders -where top-coated with Rustolium, it has held up fine for years now. But I know a lot of guys have used POR to paint entire rat-rods who are entirely pleased with their results, this is a matter of taste, if you want a mile deep candy paint job, its not the way to go, however if if your 'into' the primered home hammered rat-rod look, it is just pointless to overdo it on the paintjob. In my case survival and utility is the primary goal, I'll leave the $30,000 paint jobs to the trailer queens.
Now I'm confused. I have a less than desirable set of floorpans. I don't want to completely cut them out and redo. I will however weld in a couple of patches. I am building a driver. Will por work on the floorpans? Better product for this? I've been scraping the pans the last couple of days and missed all this. Thanks everybody. TP
You think yours are "less than desirable"? you ought to see what I had in my 'field car" Stude that had sat out on a river bank for 10 years without any windows! I was able to stand behind the steering wheel with both feet flat on the ground, about 80% of the floors, the bottoms of the wheel housings and the inner quarters are now patch panels, and work is still in progress. When I am satisfied that all of the welding is completed, I will pull the body off the frame and strip off any remaining paint or undercoat and lightly sand blast the body tub inside and out, then allow it to sit out until lightly and uniformly rusted then I will coat it with POR-15, and fiberglass mat saturated with POR-15 on the floor-pan which will render it about as rust and water-proof as a fiberglass boat. The best product and methods depend on how extensive repairs you are contemplating, if its just a couple of small patch panels, there is no need to get into the mess that is caused by blasting. In that case I'd grind off an inch or so all around the repair area, and weld in the patches, hit the patches and immediate area with some 80 grit to clean it up - and then, If I was going to use POR-15, I'd wet down the repaired areas for a few days and let a good solid and even layer of rust form, lightly wire brush it, just removing the 'dusty' rust, and brush on a minimum 2 coats of POR-15 only on the areas where rust has formed. painting over the POR and the rest of the floor-pan is optional, just DO NOT use POR-15 as a finish if you will be applying it to anything other than rust. for this use a different paint product that is formulated to be applied over existing paint and smooth and unrusted metal.
Well, I don't want to get in any arguments again, but if they were my floors, they would be cut out faster than you can say POR-15 and replaced with shiny new metal. I'd epoxy primer them top and bottom, bc/cc to match the color of the body and then apply a undercoating on the bottom. I'll get into big trouble I guess for saying the whole chassis and underbody of my '54 Chevy will get the same brandywine kandy that the top half gets, and believe me it will be driven! It's no trailer queen. HoK makes a really tough chip resistant clear that will protect a underbody without a thick ugly (just my opinion) undercoating, probably not to the same degree, but protected somewhat nonetheless. Rich
To each his own, No argument from me, its your car, your dollar, and your decision. Then again there will be no "kandy" paint to be found anywhere on any of my cars, and I always prefer a simple black under-body that doesn't require much in the way of maintenance or detailing, I got better things to do and to worry about, than polishing out a few water-spots that are detracting from the 'perfection' of the bottom side of an otherwise over-detailed and 'perfect' chassis. You are the one that is going to have to maintain it if you go for that look. but you can expect that the critics are going to constantly be looking for the tiniest flaws in your vision of perfection, because that is what that level of detailing invites. How many vehicles have you owned with a "show-car finished" frame and chassis? You may be in for a rude awakening For me it is more than enough work to keep the outer panels, engine, and trunk compartments and interior clean and looking good.
I'm curious here, why would you apply "bc/cc to match the color of the body" if you are covering the finish on the bottom side with undercoating, and the topside would be totally covered and concealed beneath the carpeting?
Fair enough, no arguments from me either. I don't think it matters too much, it's down to personal preference and style I guess. A sweet ride is a sweet ride no matter what the undercarraige looks like. I've seen some cars that were maybe built in a different way than I would have done, but turn heads at every light, and I can't deny that they deserve all the respect they get. My '54 Chevy is getting a kandy job more because I want to learn to spray it properly, it's a good skill to have, but I also like the way it looks. I have to tell you though, some days I still want to ditch it for black primer. If someone asks me for advice on something (which no one here did particularly, but I offered it) I will tell them what I know and have experience of, but I after this, I think I would rather shut up and keep it to myself unless someone specifically asks me. I love traditional rods and customs, that's what I'm about but I think I build 'em differently to a lot of people on the board... I'm not saying better, but different for sure. Rich
Good question, most of the time the body would be off the frame already (I wish I had a rotisserie). The whole thing is bare steel, so I'd patch the floor and when ready the whole shell gets painted the same inside and out, over and under. I guess my mind was still in that mode when I wrote that. You're right, it's unnecessary to match the color in this case, I have a tendency to think if it came out of the factory a certain way, I'd restore it that way even if the repair will never be seen. Don't ask. I know it makes no sense, maybe if I hang out here enough some sense and practicality will rub off on me and I'll start saving myself a lot of work and money. Rich
Hey guy, not trying to offend you, just that the subject of this thread is POR-15, and as I have been using this product for many years now, I have accumulated considerable experience with its peculaities to contribute to the knowledge base here. Advising to use epoxy-primers and bc/cc finishes instead, does not at all address the concerns of those members who are about to use of POR-15 for the first time, or for those here who have used it before and had less than satisfactory results. As was pointed out many, many times on hotrodders.com, POR-15 NEEDS a rusty surface to be effective, virtually every adhesion complaint has been the result of removing too much of the rust in an attempt to create the type of surface that is required for conventional paint products, and this is all wrong for the qualities of POR-15. That subject aside, you said you are not building a show car out of your '54, but you are going to have the floor-pans and chassis Kandy painted ???
No offense was taken, and no offense was meant. You made your point well, I won't argue with your experience of the product and ability to give good practical advice because I don't have adequate experience of POR-15, that's good enough reason that I probably shouldn't have said anything in the first place. I don't know everything about metalwork or paint either, and if I have communicated that vibe, I apologize because it's not the way I am or want to come across. From what I've heard about POR-15, you're advice sounds spot on to me for the proper use of the product. I posted only because POR-15 isn't the only solution, and no one had mentioned an alternative up to that point. The only thing I regret is getting so aggressive about it. We all make mistakes, well, I'll learn from it and move on. I haven't been around here for long and am still figuring it out. I appreciate you not coming down on me like a ton of bricks. As for my '54, when it's finished, sure I guess some people might call it a show car, and if they did I would consider it a compliment, I'm a detail oriented person, and I tend to be a perfectionist. However, I won't be entering any shows, or trailering it around, it will be driven, maybe not every day but definitely a few times a week. It will also see some time at my local track, and I won't come here for sympathy for the time I spend touching up paint and cleaning the chassis. It is a traditional custom, and this is a forum for traditional rods and customs, that's why I joined. I'm actually glad to get into discussions like this because I do want to get to know people here and learn, it's been a bit rough so far but I'm not going to give up just because I get my ass grilled a few times, I probably deserve it. No offense meant at all from my side either, I respect your knowledge, experience and opinions. Rich
I have to agree with Rich. A good clean bare metal frame? If you primed it with epoxy & shot it with black urethane it will last ten times longer than por 15 over rust & look ten times better. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Easy on the Giggle Cream!
I've use POR15, and I found something better Rust Bullet. I used to sell it, I no longer do, but I still use it, and it beats anything else I have tried. As with POR, you brush off loose rust, and apply two coats. But it will also go on over clean bare steel, and work just as good. Or over old paint as long as you rough it up a bit, scotch brite pads are enough. With POR, if you don't recoat it within 24 hours, you have to sand it, or the recoat won't stick to it. At all. Not even more POR. Rust Bullet can be recoated up to 6 months later without sanding. You can use any paint I know of over Rust Bullet without a sealer. You can fill over it with plastic, epoxy, fiberglass, whatever. When I was selling it, I took a piece of mill finished steel sheet, painted it with two coats of Rust Bullet, and after it cured, bent it 90 degrees in a brake, without any cracking of the coating. POR 15, and rust bullet are both moisture cure paints. They extract water from the atmosphere, bind the oxygen in a chemical process, and release hydrogen. If it's painted over rust, it extracts the oxygen from the rust for the cure. Once the free oxygen is bound, the remaining material is iron oxide, an inert material that is used as pigment in red oxide primer. Done correctly, either one works well. If POR 15 peels off, you preped it wrong. Oil, or other contamination will cause problems. Undercoating is a petroleum product. Use a gease and wax remover, and let it dry good before applying the paint. If you have fresh steel, and want to use POR over it, hit it with some metal etch solution. This is actually a controlled rusting, that will promote adhesion. Do not use POR over old paint, it won't stick.
Please provide us with the independent laboratory test results that can back up this claim. A slightly different application, but I have used POR-15 to repair a badly failed epoxy finish (bath-tub reglaze job) the epoxy chipped and peeled within the first 6 months leaving razor sharp edges, the company claimed their application was a one shot deal, and could not be repaired or refinished again, and the only resort now was a total tub replacement, costing around $5000 (this tub was 5x5 ft, cast iron, and located in a fully tiled 2nd floor bath,) Based on all of the great results I had with POR-15 in other applications, I ordered a quart of their white, (around $30) carefully sanded and feather edged the epoxy and brushed on 2 coats of the POR, it flowed out and left a surface that is virtually indistinguishable from white porcelain. That was about 4 years ago, and the tub has been used daily for baths and showers by a family of 4, and after thousands of uses and cleanings the finish still looks as good as it did the day it was applied. We have an older house with a 'Michigan basement' and the constant seepage of ground water used to severely rust the bottoms of the steel jack posts and the steel bearing plates that they rested on until they would actually crumble, collapse, and allow the floors to sag, I cut off the weakened bottom couple inches and POR-15 coated the new support plates and the bottom few inches of the posts, (inside and out) again, end of problem. As for automotive related uses, I have never had rust return to any area that I have applied POR-15 to, so there is really not much more that I can say about that, it worked as advertised. I have never been a dealer, nor are any of my friends or family members, we all order our supplies directly from the Company.
I guess I've made up my mind to use the por. I can buy iy up the street. Probaly the only person to see the bootom of my car will be me when I change the oil. If it rust out again I won't tell anyone. Funny how we all have a vision on how things should be. I enjoyed all the differant visions. This car will probably be a 5 year buils anyway. If it lifts by then I'll redo it. If it doesn't ,it's good enough. As far as replacing all of the pans, thats not going to happen.I can live with a little rust, midew,bad paint and whatever else happens. Thanks guys.]
Yeah it's a great product, for it's recomended applications. But to get a frame down to bare metal, & make it rust just so you can use por 15 (which is not designed as a topcoat) on the entire frame is just wrong in so many ways. Por 15 is not designed to hold up to UV, for instance. It won't gloss near as well as Urethane. Use it for it's intended purpose; don't make things rust just so you can mis-use it. My 2 cents. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Easy on the Giggle Cream!
I have experience with both POR-15 (that I bought before it was commercially available), and Eastwood's "Rust Encapsulator" paint that is supposed to be the same. The POR-15 stuff I used seemed to last, but it was used in places the sun didn't shine. This may be it's strong point. It may be no different than the Eastwood stuff. I bought a can of Eastwood's "Rust Encapsulator" this past year for use on the Merc. Since progress on the Merc has been slow, I decided tor try it out on my 1985 Chevy pick-up's hood. The hood was riddled with rust scabs along the front edge. None of them went beyond "surface rust", after picking at them, the metal was still good underneath. I scraped the rust scabs off, and blew all the loose stuff off with my compressor. I hit the front of the hood with two coats of Eastwood's "rust encapsulator" about 6 months ago. The truck just sits in front of the house, unused for the most part. It sat all winter, mostly undriven, but certainly not subjected to salt or other corrosive materials except rain or snow. I did nothing more to it since. The rust is returning. You can see in the areas I painted liberally with the black "rust encapsulator" that the rust is coming back through, in small pinholes of iron-colored splotches, that will eventually create the rust spots I painted over. The hood does not face direct sunlight. In my opinion, this result is no different that if I would have hit these areas with 2 or 3 coats of flat black Rustoleum and let it sit for 6 months. It certainly doesen't STOP the rust, it just prolongs it's effects. If it stopped it, it would look the same now, as it did when I first did it. It doesn't. You can clearly see the scabs I painted over coming back, even though I scraped off the paint, and left the "rust" spots per their directions. I'm sure if I sanded the hood down, left the "rust encapsulator" in the deepest pits, and painted the hood, it would be okay; but raw, as a "protectant" it isn't much of a deterrent to rust. You have to go all the way and paint the part you're trying to protect to keep it fron rusting again. It isn't really different than any other bodyshop process. Hitting rust with "naval jelly" or sandblasting prior to priming/painting will yeild about the same results. Maybe if you have a show car that doesn't sit at the curb for months on end in the weather you will get better results, but I wanted a real-world test of their claims, and as far as I'm concerned, it was a $30.00 waste of money (for a quart) to me. The only way to get lasting results on rusty metal is to blast the shit out of the affected part, get all the bits of rust out, acid wash it, then fill, prime and paint. The other alternative is to cut out the rust, and replace it with new metal and metalfinish. Kinda like trying to re-vive a dead (40+ year old) engine by changing the plugs and pouring in some STP oil treatment. It sounds good and quick, but it isn't a permanent fix. Your motor may run, but for how long? Like everything else, you get what you pay for. My two .02 Mercman1951
There you go. Except with epoxy you prime before you fill (then I prime with epoxy again after the bodywork). Bondo (filler) will stick & feather better over the epoxy - epoxy is great stuff. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Easy on the Giggle Cream!
Tha! My kind of man! Someone else around here has some sense! Exactomundo my friend, clean bare metal, a two part epoxy primer, filler, another coat of epoxy, maybe a sealer (I've heard differing opinions on that) and then whatever topcoat you want. That's real bodywork, get rid of all that rust! We're going to have to stick together because I don't think many around here like our way of doing things. Who the heck cares whether you're painting kandy, metallic, pearl, or black primer as your topcoat, it doesn't matter, but good bodywork is good bodywork, whether its a 100pt concours restoration, or a budget daily driver. I don't see how you can argue with that. Whatever, it's your car, build it the way you want. Jessie, you want laboratory proof? Go to any assembly plant and see thier finishing process. There's no "pre rust then POR-15" stage, go to any professional restoration shop or auto refinisher, no POR-15 there either, except if it's used as previously discussed in seams and enclosed or hidden areas that cannot otherwise be stripped of rust. Just so you know, the finish on your bathtub has nothing to do with 2 part automotive epoxy primer. It's made to bond to clean bare metal, and it seals the metal completely, it's water and chemical resistant, easily sandable, and can sit in the open air for years with not a sign of rust. The fibreglass matt soaked in POR-15 is the kind of treatment that anyone wanting to properly restore or rebuild the car later would curse you for. I know because I'm fighting to remove the thick tar undercoating that someone sprayed on everything under my car, and inside the q/panels and trunk floor. I think the difference in opinions here is that Tha and I are talking about the restoration of rust damaged vehicle bodywork and you guys are not wanting to restore but just to fix so you can live with the damage and stop it getting worse. That's fine, but I won't stop recommending to people that proper restoration of your bodywork makes a far stronger, better looking and more valuable car in the end, and please don't give me the "yeah, that's fine if you want to build a showcar" line, as I said good bodywork is good bodywork, period. Rich
Here we go again, Your car, your $, your choice, I'm willing to defer to your "expert" opinion on what is the best method and system for you. Only relating my personal experiences with the product that was being discussed here, Do you recall the subject of this thread? "Go to any assembly plant and see their finishing process"...... I am a retired GM worker with over 30 years of hands-on experience with the Fisher Body Division of GMC, plus during all those years I also performed Auto-body repair and painting on the side, and learned a lot about the intricacies automotive finishing during my tenure there, one hell of a lot more than I can even begin to detail in this thread. How much time have you spent in an automobile assembly plant? I base my recommendation of using POR-15 products in the restoration of antique vehicles on solid personal experience with the product, and my familiarity with the OE body assembly procedures and paint systems. Lets back up just a bit here, recall that I am only speaking of using it on the chassis, floor-pans, and in the areas that are normally hidden and inaccessible. this is a critical point in this discussion, think back to where I mentioned the rust that forms within the lapped panels and hidden areas, and that cannot be accessed except drilling out all of the spot welds and total disassembly of every single panel, remember? Are you now taking the position that those concealed areas where RUST HAS ALREADY FORMED ought to just have a coat of epoxy primer squirted over them? If POR is suitable to you to stop and contain the rust in these, the very worst of areas for the propagation of rust, then as I stated before your objections to applying it to the remainder of the floor-pan are "silly". Now back to the OE paint systems, first of all body panel metallurgy has changed dramatically since the days when your '54 was built, with virtually the entire floor-pan and most other exterior panels now being formed from electro-galvanized high strength steel, which is far more resistant to corrosion than the materials that were employed when our older cars were manufactured, between the AQ standards wrought by the EPA, and the fundamental changes in the chemistry of modern bc/cc systems to meet the changing requirements of OE production, modern automotive painting materials and procedures have underwent dramatic changes. It is often pointed out that the OE manufactures and professional refinishing shops do not use POR-15 or similar products, this is a natural outcome of having developed, and the employment of materials in modern production that reduce the tendency to rust, and any pressing need for the use of such products in the production or repair of contemporary automobiles, (but we sure as hell should have had something as good when we were cranking out those #%*& Vegas ) The second consideration here is that about 99% of the professional auto refinishing business is concentrated on collision repairs performed on the late model vehicles that were the beneficiaries of these improvements. (skipping over detailing the changes in repair procedures that the introduction of thin high-strength steels have forced on the trade) because of these changes almost all collision shops now routinely refuse to preform body or paint work on older vehicles at any price. From what you have posted, it appears that you are laying yourself the groundworks for major disappointment with regards to actually finishing your old Chevy, but nonetheless best wishes, and may your dreams come true.
And I think your veiled insult here was uncalled for, as I had previously pointed out on my present project that; I sure as hell am "talking about restoration of the rust damaged vehicle bodywork" here (and right down to carefully duplicating all of the intricate factory embossing details in the replacement panels) and its pretty dam condescending of you to infer that I'm "not wanting to restore but just fix so (I) can live with the damage....proper restoration of your bodywork makes a far stronger body..... " blah blah blah. Look smartass, I have already invested hundreds of hours in the proper restoration of this floorpan, and the finished product will be suitable for a showcar, that I don't choose to finish it your way is not a reflection of any inferiour workmanship on my part, but a conscious and carefully thought out decision based on actual experience, that the end result will be superior to that obtained by your methods.
I totally respect your experience Jessie , mine can't come close and I won't even pretend that I can argue with that. You're right that technology in manufacture and in finishing is a much different beast today than it ever was when these cars we love so much were produced. I sure hope I won't be dissapointed, because I have been learning from guys on HR.com (like barryK who owns SPI) that have restored early 60's Mercedes 190SL's to 100pt condition that have sold for over $80,000 each with these methods. I suppose that is a case in point that maybe we are talking about two different techniques for two different types of restoration, but I don't see any reason why the same methods used to restore concours winning trophy cars can't be applied to our budget resto daily drivers. Sandpaper, naval jelly and epoxy primer really don't cost that much, it's just time and elbow grease. I do remember the original question asked in this thread, and my advice would still be to cut out the "less than desireable" floorpans, or patch the damaged areas, get them to clean bare metal, primer them and paint them, just as Mercman1951 said: "The only way to get lasting results on rusty metal is to blast the shit out of the affected part, get all the bits of rust out, acid wash it, then fill, prime and paint. The other alternative is to cut out the rust, and replace it with new metal and metalfinish. Kinda like trying to re-vive a dead (40+ year old) engine by changing the plugs and pouring in some STP oil treatment. It sounds good and quick, but it isn't a permanent fix." But, I think instead we will keep going around and around in circles. In response to your comment: "Lets back up just a bit here, recall that I am only speaking of using it on the chassis, floor-pans, and in the areas that are normally hidden and inaccessible. this is a critical point in this discussion, think back to where I mentioned the rust that forms within the lapped panels and hidden areas, and that cannot be accessed except drilling out all of the spot welds and total disassembly of every single panel, remember? Are you now taking the position that those concealed areas where RUST HAS ALREADY FORMED ought to just have a coat of epoxy primer squirted over them?" I would agree with what you are saying except that I would choose not to use it on a complete floorpan or chassis, but definitely in seams and areas that are otherwise inaccessible for stripping. Sure, you are right, I'm sure it can be and is used by yourself and many others on a complete floorpan and chassis, you know that better than me. I don't remember ever claiming that it couldn't at all be used there, but just maybe that it shouldn't in light of rather at least stripping, priming and painting a chassis or floorpan first which provides the best corrosion resistance you're going to get, especially with todays paints, if you then want to coat it to protect the paint that is in turn protecting the metal, no problems there. What I did say is that I thought the idea of letting a light rust build on new, clean, bare metal (not talking about seams and enclosed areas, but a frame... or bare repaired floorpans for that matter) for the sole purpose of coating it in POR-15 rather than paint as being a silly idea (ok I was more harsh than that, but I regret it and have apologized already). In some kind of twisted idealistic world, sure we would drill out the spot welds, dissasemble every last panel, clean and reweld... this is the only way anyone could ever contemplate removing every last speck of corrosion from a 40yr old body, but it's entirely impractical, isn't done by anyone that I've ever heard of and isn't necessary. So, no I am not suggesting anything like that at all. I also wasn't saying now that these areas ought to be primered right over, you're right that would be stupid and asking for rust to come back... I'll say again the corrosion in these areas can be effectively stopped with something like POR-15 or a cavity wax, the point being to stop the corrosion from any further contact with oxygen. If I remember right, we both spoke about ways to open up a seam and brush in POR-15 or melt in a cavity wax, close it up again, and we have both said the same thing about that. I don't even know you Jessie, but over the past couple days I have come to respect you a lot, even though we disagree, because you make good arguments and you know what you're talking about, our experience doesn't overlap though, you have an awful lot more experience than I do with making the best use of POR-15 for repairs, where I have never bothered, I'd be the first to cut it out and weld in new metal. I think the only thing that could settle this is to take a look at our cars in twenty years time and see what the floors look like. I have enjoyed this discussion, I'm not going to change my mind but I think it's been argued well from both sides. I hope others have at least been able to follow it, and not end up confused. Here's what I understand so far. If you choose to use POR-15 on a chassis or floorpan, it is designed for use directly over light rust. Therefore, you should make your repairs (weld in patch panels or whatever) let it rust lightly, and then apply POR-15, same goes for a freshly fabricated or stripped frame. We discussed the use of POR-15 in seams and enclosed areas, I don't think there are any arguments there. This is right if you want to use POR-15 in these applications. I'm not saying anything different regarding procedure, only questioning the application itself because I believe stripping to bare metal by dissolving, sanding or blasting all rust, followed by primer and paint to provide a tougher, longer lasting corrosion resistance and finish for a floorpan or chassis. That, in summary is what I think each of us have said, and where we differ is our opinions of POR-15 being a good protection against corrosion on bare metal compared to primer and paint. It's a case of POR-15 vs primer and paint, and we have both argued our cases. I have no idea which one wins in the end, we won't agree, and maybe it doesn't matter, perhaps it's purely down to a personal choice. I would just like people to know there is a choice. My brain hurts, I feel like we've been writing a University thesis paper or something. Rich
I can't believe this thread is still going. Can't we start a new discussion about John Deere Blitz Black or a tech post on how to paint wheels red? Boy, I really hit a nerve with this. Here's the thing. I never "got the frame down to bare metal." Let's get this out of the way. It's a kit car frame. Steel tubes, all brand new. Yeah, I said kit car. With a fiberglass body. Blasphemy! Calm down. What have you built that runs with new Vettes? Brand new, so clean and shiny with a good coating of oil and grease. We degreased it first. Then we put on the mild acid stuff. I don't remember the product name. Marine Clean stands out in my mind. Maybe that was the degreaser. We probably bought all this stuff from the POR site. I'm not doing the re-research right now for you whiners. So now we've got a mildly rusty frame. Very light rust. Just what the POR15 needs to bond to the frame. Then we spray on the POR15. Couple nice coats, concentrating on nooks and crannies. Now we have a frame coated with a nice resilient POR15 skin. Oh my god, the UV blockers won't keep the frame shiny. If you're that worried about your frame being glossy, maybe you should turn your attentions toward where you're going to get your brake rotors chromed. We could have had the whole frame powder coated. That would have been the best thing probably, because it would be even more resilient. But, that's costly. POR15 is cheap and still pretty damn resistant to stone chips and scrapes on driveway aprons and stuff. Very low car. We've chipped off the POR when installing other chassis bits or whatever. Brushed on a touch up. No big deal. Oh, and by the way, the whole rear end and all the suspension linkages and everything have POR on 'em too. Oh man, I didn't use a chrome diff cover. There goes my Concours score. Look, if you want a pretty frame, maybe don't use POR15. If you want a heavy duty coating on your frame for cheap, maybe use POR15. Or have it powder coated or get Zero Rust or Rust Bullet or Rust Nanny or Ferric Oxide Fairy or whatever you like. I don't care. Cover it in Crisco and fry it. Cover it in Elmer's Glue and stick sequins all over. It doesn't matter. But please stop saying I'm an idiot for purposely making my frame rusty. Please concentrate your insults toward me on one of the following: 1. Kit cars suck! You're a pansy. You should buy an old Buick. 2. You drive a '72 Super Beetle. Strut front suspensions are for losers. 3. You autocross a Saturn. Are you a high school girl or something? Those are things I truly deserve punishment for. Not that those cars don't punish me enough as it is. And yes I should buy an old Buick, and dip it in a big stinky vat of POR15.
Whoa, calm down! No veiled insults there at all whatsoever. I have obviously somehow gotten the wrong impression from your posts then. I would assume if you are going to all this trouble doing a proper job of restoring your car, that you wouldn't advise someone else to do anything less. Listen, I'm over with this, it's going nowhere. I had no intention of insulting you at all. Forget it. You win.
That's freakin hilarious! Fuck it. I'm tired of bitching and whining and getting people all pissed off for some reason I don't understand. Long live POR-15! I don't think you're an idiot. I think maybe Jessie and I need to lighten up though, shit. Rich
POR15 has it's good and bad sides but my best experience is with EXRUST (KANO LABS, same people that make KROIL) and painting over with an etching or epoxy primer. try here http://www.kanolabs.com tell them "oldcarfart" sent you their way, it is commerical use products but are finially branching into retail (via, eastwood, brownell's gun shop, etc)
I think the initial argument between rlackey and I got settled. It's a to each his own thing. Somebody please kill this thread. What if I mention NASCAR? Isn't that the kiss of death?
Thanks for bringing up that quote again, that's how all the trouble started. Should have just kept my big mouth shut. Are you trying to get me killed?
No; we were saying that to intentionaly rust a frame just to use por 15 on the entire thing is just not right. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" America - made in China! :-(
The Jalopy Journal
