I have started a 1930 Roadster hot rod project. As I progress, I will post pictures to show the latest updates on the build. I'll start with the frame! Frame Build: After gathering as much info as I could (being my first Model A project), I started off by building the frame from 2x4 box tubing. Using basic measurements from the wescott's drawing (which.. is less than perfect for building a chassis from) I started laying out what rails would go where, the angles, etc etc. At the front, I decided to trace out the profile of the frame on the tubes and cut it out from the frame horn, towards the rear. As seen in my pictures, I removed all material necessary, while retaining the top and bottom portions of the tube in order to complete the top and bottom sides of the rails. Like many frames, it had a kickup in the rear however I did it differently then some. Rather then using mitre cuts or S bends from welding series, I stacked one tube on top of the next, and traced out my S bend exactly how I wanted it. By doing it this way, I acheived a 4" radius (which is impossible with even the best of mandrel benders), kept the frame strong and minimzed cost for extra parts required. When welding the 2 tubes together, I rossette welded 3x inside the tube, welded all external seems and then welded the corner gussets in. I did the same for the rear cross member as I did for the main rails with regards to cutting radiuses within 2 stacked tubes, and welding in gussets. The gussets were made by heating and bending portions of 2x4" around a form that fit (in this case, it was a scrap piece of 1.5" tubing) In order to allow clearance for my the rumble seat, I narrowed the rear frame to 36" outer diameter which brough the frame just inside the sub rails. Where the bends were located in the diagrams, I cut a slit in the frame with a cutoff wheel, but only on 3 sides of the tube. I left the outside of the bend intact, while removing material from the inside (the side that would "close up" when bending the rails into position). The front cross member was last to go in the frame as it was last to be purchased (swap meet bargains!). I had to modify it by narrowing it slightly to fit in between my rails, and also added 3 degrees of castor. I am using a Lucky 7 drop axle, and they specify 3 degrees in the cross member, and 3 built into the I-beam for a total of 6 degrees. The mid cross member will be installed with my trans, location to be determined. As for all of the mounting holes, when the frame fabrication was completed, I borrowed a stock frame from a friend and marked as many bracket locations, hole locations and cross member locations as I could, even if I didn't think they were going to be useful to me (because you just never know..!) I also checked to make sure the frame was square and proportionate to the original. One thing that I noticed, only after completing the build was that when I narrowed the rear to 36", it pulled in the mid section of the frame by a few degrees. The mounts for my sub rails will end up being slightly further away from the frame, and the same goes for my running boards brackets. Not a major issue, but something to consider if you build a setup like this.
Body Assembly: I am finally getting around to assembling the entire body peice by peice. Starting with the subrails, I squared all of the cross members up in their approximate locations, using stock floor pans to guide me. This gave me a rough idea of where the cross members should be situated in the subrail openings. From there, I mounted the firewall and doors, and worked my way back. Unfortunatley, the previous owner had done some major body work to the car, but likely did so "on the bench" rather than on the car. It was pretty bad, and really makes my assembly process tricky because nothing fits as it should. Once everything was roughed in with clamps, I dropped in on an original Model A frame to reposition as needed. From there, it went on to the new frame (pictres still to come).
One thing that I had forgot to mention in the previous frame fabrication section, was that I had used an original set of rails after the fact to transpose all correct mounting locations, bracket locations and relevant cross member location on both the new frame, and on the body. This made transfering the body from an original frame to a custom frame a lot easier with regards to fore and aft positioning, especially since I do not have a rad/rad shell to support the hood yet.
Looking good! I'm not that far from you either. I plan to start the body work on my roadster soon too.
Thanks guys, I will have more pictures available in a week or so. Up next is getting the hood, grill and rad together. I have all of the parts, and I have test fit them. I'll be bracing and squaring up the body with tubing shortly for removal from the frame, and then installing the rear 4-link.
Unless I've missed the post somewhere over the years, I don't think I've seen somebody post the build on a full vehicle assembly from pieces to final product. I'd like to document as much as possible for everybody else out there going through the same difficulties as I am (brutal.. brutal body work before I purchased the vehicle, millions of pieces cluttering up the already packed garage, no "square" referance, no centerlines, bent broken and missing items, etc..etc) Hopefully this helps!
The Jalopy Journal
