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Flaring.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rockabillybassman, Sep 9, 2011.

  1. What is the step by step procedure for double flaring a brake pipe? I've done a search and am coming up short on the actual procedure. I know the first step.... put the nut on.... and put it on the right way :D
     
  2. James Curl
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 370

    James Curl
    Member

    You will need a double flaring tool. The tool comes with stepped bushings for lack of a better term. The head of the bushing is used as a gauge on the height of material protruding above the surface of the flaring tool clamp. Then the bushings small end is inserted into the protruding tube and the flaring tool slid onto the clamping bar and the point placed into the dimple in the bushing and tightened down until the flange of the bushing is tight in the clamping bar. Then you remove the bushing from the tubing and re-flare the end. The first step deforms the tubing into a open ball with the bottom of the ball flare shaped, then the flaring tool is reinserted into the open end and tightened down to fold the excess material into the inside of the flare thus forming the "double flare".
     
  3. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Good start. Then you fit the pipe into the double flaring tool jaws. There is a mandrel that fits into the tube which (on my flaring kit) has a shoulder on it that indicates how much tube should be proud of the jaws.

    You put the stem of the mandrel into the end of the tube and wind down the bevelled flaring tool into a small hole on the back of the mandrel until it stops. Unwind and remove the mandrel but keep the tube clamped in the jaws. You will now have a ball flare. Then rewind the flaring tool back into the end of the tube to finish the flare.

    There are also a lot of little tricks guys use to ensure a nice flare like ensuring you deburr the end of the tube before starting and also not making the final flare operation too tight. You can allow the flare to be finished by the taper inside the wheel cylinder when you nip it up. Makes a better seal.

    There, was that any help at all?
     
  4. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Looks like i'm too slow on the keyboard.
     

  5. VooDoo Child 56
    Joined: Mar 5, 2010
    Posts: 49

    VooDoo Child 56
    Member
    from Jersey

    I just did a bunch of double flairs on a brake system I'm building. I can add to what James said is to slightly bevel the end of the tube with a file, put a little lube on the cone of the flairing tool, and make sure you clamp the tube into the fixture really tight. Don't go nuts cranking down on the second half of the flair, you will over "funnel" the tube thinning the inner folded over piece.
     
  6. VooDoo Child 56
    Joined: Mar 5, 2010
    Posts: 49

    VooDoo Child 56
    Member
    from Jersey

    No looks like I'm too slow!!
     
  7. James Curl
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 370

    James Curl
    Member

    Never to slow the more information the better. We always assume the the person knows to use a tubing cutter on the tube for a square end and then deburr the tube before flaring but that is not always the case. Some people have no idea on the procedures required only having read the term double flare and know that it is required on the 45 degree flares.
     
  8. Man, that was quick! Thanks guys, that's exactly what I need.
     
  9. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    OK. Get out in the shed then
     
  10. hotcargo
    Joined: Nov 9, 2005
    Posts: 307

    hotcargo
    Member

    As the other guys have said

    One more thing to consider ........that the tubing you are using is annealed ( ....softened )

    to allow a smooth and easy forming flare ( with lubricant )

    steel bundy tube is made from steel sheet and rolled to form a tube

    Stainless steel is rolled and welded ( most commonly used ......304 annealed )

    copper is drawn over mandrel ( not recomended )

    cheers

    Steve in Oz
     
  11. So a suitable lubricant would be grease? Vaseline? dry stick lubricant? KY Jelly? :D
     
  12. All the above BUT AFTER A CLEAN SQUARE CUT.
    That's probably the most important thing.
     
  13. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 18,828

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    I'd say the most important thing in tube flaring is to get a good quality flairing tool. I got a Ridgid one.. works like a champ. tossed my crap one right in the trash after that
     
  14. 8-Track
    Joined: Jul 26, 2008
    Posts: 396

    8-Track
    Member

  15. chopt top kid
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 959

    chopt top kid
    Member

  16. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,625

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Another consideration: there was a certain brand of steel brake tube available thru some independant auto parts stores when I had my shop...the brand name was "Kant-Kink".

    Available in graduated diameters, S.A.E. from 3/16" thru 3/8", metric also.

    It was anealed A-K steel, and double-flaring was a snap. (er, make that a 'smooth operation'. 'Snap' implies brittleness!) Could be bent around sharp corners, without a mandrel tool...
     
  17. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    <iframe width="560" height="345" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/4fmF9mm3hsM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
     
  18. Keep
    Joined: May 10, 2008
    Posts: 662

    Keep
    Member

    I agree that the first thing is a good flaring tool. The HF ones suck and will cause you nothing but problems. I also have the Ridged flaring tool.

    Great tool, out of all the flares I only had one bad one, and that was my fault for over tightening it. For lube I just used 3 in 1 oil.
     
  19. I will add something that I didnt see above. I have quit using the old tubing cutters we all grew up with. With a typical tubing cutters with the knifelike wheel that you compress as you roll it around the tube, it work hardens the material right at the cut by compressing it. then we fold it over 135 degrees the opposite way...making it Even harder. Then we compress it and hope it doesn't crack under use. You could always anneal after cutting or after your first flare operation..or you can cut it with a fine tooth saw or cutoff wheel...yes, cleanup is mandatory as is making a straight cut.
    Regardless of what methods or tricks, deburring and flushing of your new line is a must.
    All sounds a bit anal, but Brakes and fuel Lines are something to be a perfectionist about.
    Hans
     
  20. 53choptop
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,203

    53choptop
    Member


    That is exactly what I thought until I bit the bullet and bought one (ebay for $180) after messing with the clamp down style ones, in this case the NAPA brand. It has been the best investment I have made. Brakes are something you do not want to skimp on, a leak has the potential to literally kill you.
     
  21. And the older standard steel lines are easier to work in most of the conventional flaring tools as opposed to the easy to form green lines.
    Another consideration is flare degrees, 45 degree for most automotive such as brake lines used with brass fittings and fuel lines and then you have the 37 degree lines as used in AN style fittings. The tools are different for the uses, most conventional manual tools are for 45 degree. The hydraulic ones generally come with the 45 degree and the 37 degree tooling is available in a additional set. With this said, I have seen many people use the 45 degree flares on 37 degree AN brake lines with sucess, but it is a brake system so do it right. I have several sets and the hydraulic set is the best and faster but for just a few lines a good conventional set works, just buy a good set, KD or better yet, Rigid.
     
  22. Jack60
    Joined: Nov 25, 2009
    Posts: 115

    Jack60
    Member
    from Maryland

    I bought a HF one, and yes it sucks......................:eek:
     
  23. 8-Track
    Joined: Jul 26, 2008
    Posts: 396

    8-Track
    Member

    Amen !

     
  24. Dan Timberlake
    Joined: Apr 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,530

    Dan Timberlake
    Member

    Did anybody say be sure and put the fitting/nut on the line >>before<< flaring the tubing?

    A friend bought some pre-bent stainless lines for his Corvette from a name brand supplier. Real stiff to bend into correct alignment. And the flares look like crap, and some did not seal without gorilla tightness. I think that SS (whichever one it was) is too hard.

    Dan T
     
  25. hotcargo
    Joined: Nov 9, 2005
    Posts: 307

    hotcargo
    Member

    my flaring tool kit is a Sykes-Pickavent (spelling ?)

    I purchased in the late '70's , at the time it was high dollars and was the Rolls Royce of double flaring tools , still works a charm despite mostly only used Stainless tube brake lines and fuel lines etc

    Steve in Oz
     
  26. 54 Chevy
    Joined: Sep 4, 2010
    Posts: 362

    54 Chevy
    Member

    I bought one made by BrakeQuip and it works great. I let a friend on mine use it that builds a lot of cars and he is ready to buy one now. Almost $200 dollars but I went threw 2 of the Craftsman flaring tools on my 47 and they were almost $50.
     
  27. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,188

    55chieftain
    Member

    I have a flaring tool I bought from Matco 15 years ago and works great. One thing i've noticed is the differant brake lines available. The silver metal line and the dark green/almost black line. The dark line is much easier to work with IMO.

    I'm not a fan of brake line adapters either, whenever I service a vehicle if needed I reuse the original fitting if an oddball size not like the fitting that comes on the line .
     
  28. GREASER815
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 973

    GREASER815
    Member

    Just buy lines and couple them together with unions, I have 1 union in my entire car and all precut, flared tubing right off the parts store shelf. Then again, maybe I am just lazy.
     

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