It's a simple enough and common enough job to throw a Mustang tank in a '49-'51 Ford. 1x1 between the frame rails and a simple frame of 1" angle to set the tank in will keep it pretty level and keep it off the ground. I happened to have the body off while I swapped my frame, but when I first installed the Mustang tank the body was on. That's the easy part... I lost some sleep trying to figure out how the heck to finish the sheet metal in the trunk. I don't have a lot of tools, very little time, no experience and not a lot of brain-smarts at the best of times. I do have a highly engineered hillbilly bender that is accurate to within a foot as the crow flies, that also doubles as a stand for my cheapo bead roller that I beefed up a bit… I used some poster board to make a template. Lots of cutting and taping and head-scratching, and other-parts-scratching, but eventually I ended up with something that seemed about right. The trunk isn't 100% symmetrical, but close enough for jazz, so I only templated one side… I cut some 18ga, and using the aforementioned bender/roller combo, I ended up with a little something like this... Because of the wacky angles of the bends I could only make the first bend in the brake. The second bend on each side was done by hand using my vice and a BFH. Ugh. I managed to salvage one underfloor brace, but had to make one for the other side. Same deal, make a template from poster board, trace it onto 18ga and git cutting' and a-grindin' and a-bendin' (all the bends for this were done in the vice, or with vice grips). I even remembered to drill the darn holes before I bent the metal... Now, I don't have a fancy-ass shrinker/stretcher (or a killer stand for one like the one Finnrodder made!), so I had to use caveman tech… vice grips and a hammer. Most of this is out of eyesight, so I got it close, but not perfect. Good enough for the girls we dance with... And since the frame for the tank is sitting up on 1x1, I added some bracing blocks to the frame to hold the floor level. The body will be off the frame again in a couple of weeks, so I may run a solid bar across instead of small blocks… The job isn't quite done, I've got lots of finishing details to work out and welding to do, but if you squint a little, from say 10 feet or so, it almost looks pretty darn smashing... Now if I could only get the rest of the car looking this good...
Yes I did Chris, actually I have a bunch of the shoebox build threads bookmarked. Finnrodder is working on his at a slightly faster pace than me, and has more experience than I do. This is just the way I did it, perhaps it will help (or at least entertain) someone.
Thanks for the post-always good to see different ways to do stuff. most of us do not even have the tools that you used except vise, vise grips and the big f---ing hammer
Thanks for the comments guys. I guess that's part of my point is to show that you don't need a big shop and fancy stuff to do this. I work by myself with minimal tools, and this is the first time I've tackled this sort of work.
Great Tech!!! The more the merrier as far as I am concerned. Each one has something that gives a clearer picture of how to do it. The pictures really help. Thanks for sharing!
Well,i dont anything about faster pace,its been really slow progress in this summer with my project... But you did a really nice job with the trunk,just cant wait to see how your floor will look after you've done it. Keep it up!
Here is one suggestion: I cant find the thread,but there was pretty simple trick to vent your gas tank. There was a bung with same threads that brakeline fittings have welded on the filler neck and the vending tube was just regular brakeline,which was lead outside of the car.
Something like this? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Fuel-Tank-Roll-Over-Vent-Valve,5848.html This shot is from Tugmaster on another thread about Mustang tanks. Probably end up with something like this...
floor came out great. question since i'm about to do the same, what did you do where the floor meets the quarter panels as far as sealing it somehow? thanks, jerseymike
That Tugmasters pic is what i ment! I think this kind of bung could do the trick: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-3-...4308627?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item415c790293
Looks pretty good that for sure. The nozzle is in kinda of a weird spot though. I wanted to use the mustang one for mine, but I would have to relocate the filler neck, I need the trunk space.
I bought a 66' Comet tank.Pretty much same than the mustang tank,but the filler neck is located to the right corner.
Yep, Comet and Falcon tanks are the same dimensions (I think), but the filler neck is off at the front corner. The Mustang tank came with the car, so that's what I'm using. I'll work around it. To seal around the edges I was thinking something like flexible strip caulk... http://www.eastwood.com/3m-flexible-strip-caulk-20-yd.html Any thoughts? The entire trunk will be sprayed with rhino liner or something like that.
I would just hit all the seams with adhesive body caulk. You can get it at any automotive store that sells body work products. Careful, it is messy and takes laquer thinner or similiar for cleanup. You can also use a solvent to smooth the bead once the caulk is in place. And very, very nice work!
Looks good, keep up the good work. Hope I can do as good of a job when it comes time for me to do my trunk.
Seam sealer is what you're looking for. 3M makes a lot of different kinds, but fast and firm is what you want. I know, but get your mind outta the gutter and back on the car. It does just what it says, sets up firm fast!! laquer thinner is what you want to smooth it out. I use it on all the rustangs I restore at work. Works great, but a little pricey. 1 tube will do ya with at least half a tube left over for the other seams you welded up. Good work man.
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