Someone Doctored my Ansen Slots...Is it OK?

It's probably fine, but I wanted to check it out before I tried to use it. I bought 4 Ansen Slots for my '60 F100 about a year ago. Once I got them home I realized that someone doctored up the center hole on one of them, so that instead of it being 3" it's about 3.5".

I've got a shot from the front and from the back side but wanted to get a consensus on whether or not anyone thinks I'd need to worry about compromised strength. The shots from the back side show that a ridge was machined or ground away but I don't know if that ridge is supposed to offer any structural rigidity.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

Looks like it was machined for a cap that comes in from the back side as there are no holes on the front for a cap held on with screws.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if that wheel shears wheel studs. That hole often registers on the axle/hub and and carries the weight. Now all the weight is on the studs.

 

agree with this , with one exception, if the axle register is 3.5 on the axle you use for that wheel, it will work, if not..you wont get it centered, and it will fuck up your studs. One good launch and it will be a mess

 

Very few, if any, aftermarket wheels are hubcentric. Very few, if any, have sheared the studs, ...at least I've never seen one in 40 years in the trade

Even most car trailers don't have hubcentric setups, they center on the lugs.

Just make sure the lug nut shank is the correct ID as some are a few thousands different. And, make sure the shank is not too long. The shank should not come close to protruding on the back side of the wheel if you slide one in to test.

 

I agree, you need that centre register.

All is not lost though. You could machine an aluminum ring with the original ID and the right OD to press/ shrink fit into the wheel. If you want added insurance against the ring coming out you could drill and tap a couple blind holes from the back side, on the line where the ring meets the wheel. In other words, half in the ring, half in the wheel. Loctite a couple set screws in the holes, and you're good to go.

Edit: After reading F&J's post, maybe you don't need the centre register, maybe it's cheap insurance?..

 

Junior- All 3 of the other wheels have 5 little holes to mount the Ansen cap that you speak of, so this would probably have had them, too, before someone cut it.

If the axle register is 3.5" then the other 3 won't work then, right? I was most likely going to use it on the front anyway only because the fronts are just kind of freewheeling. I didn't want to put it on the rear because when I get the traction lock installed into the rear end I wouldn't want any difference in the weight or balance to cause that to lock up constantly.

 

Here are 4 differant wheels that are on 4 cars that I own.
First is a Bogart on the rear of my Nova that runs 10.50 and as you see it does'nt register on the axle,and never broke a stud.
Second is a Keystone that I use to have on the front of the Nova and it's not even round to register on a hub.
Third a chrome reverse on the front of my 34. Again way bigger hole in the wheel than the register on the hub. Putt 30,000 miles on it so far and no broken studs.
Fourth wheel is a Fenton Gyro and it's counter bored an 1/8 inch deep.
Do what you want but I would'nt be afraid to run those wheels, you just are'nt going to be able to put the same center caps on them unless you drill and tap the one that has the bigger center cut out in it.

 

Thanks for all the replies so far.

I'm not planning to run any caps on them. I've been looking through my copy of Gasser Wars and it looks like it was a common practice. While this isn't a gasser, I think the mix of the body's patina and capless slots will give it kind of an "all business" look.

I'm not sure how old mine are but Summit's website says the brand new Ansen Sprints are Hub-centric. On the other hand, the back side of mine looks an awful lot like the back side of Junior's Fenton.

If they really are supposed to register on the axle, what happens if different manufacturers have different register diameters? Isn't that just one more variable that would bring the manufacturing costs up? Number of bolts, pattern, width, offset, axle register. Why don't they ever list that as a measurement for choosing wheels? Not being a smart ass, just asking.

Thanks.

 

To repete AGAIN 99+% of after market mag style wheels pilot on the bloody STUDS !!!!! If you that worried wrap yourself in bubble wrap and hide under the bed. LOL !!!

 

These wheels require the nuts with the 1" long shoulder, that is what the wheels are going to register on, this is not a uni-lug, I do agree with using it on the front just for your peace of mind, but I know guys who run the Ford Dual type wheels on their Chevies all day long and the center hole is larger than the center of the chevy....and they don't use the shouldered nuts...

 

AGREE with some of these guys. I worked at tire stores back in the 70's and sold many of these type of "Mag" wheels. NONE of them were "Hubcentric", in fact we never even heard that term back them. Hub centric wheels came about for making sure the wheel was centered on the hub and helped keep newer suspension systems that were more sensitive from having wheel vibrations. It had nothing to do with strength.

 

I can't remember many wheels that I've mounted in recent years that fit snuggily (is that a word?) on the center hub, the center holes have always been larger than the hub. That would be on both steel and aluminum wheels.

As long as you use the PROPER lug nuts that fit into the holes in the wheels with no slop and seat down deep enough, without bottoming out, you will be fine IMO.

Don

 

863ftp of torque at the tire on a power stroke, you can put your finger up to the first joint between wheel and axle ring, broke 3 drive shafts but no wheel studs

 

I broke a wheel stud once but it involved a big impact going the wrong way not an oversized hub hole!

 

The front hub on my 4x4 is larger at the outer end then it is at the wheel mounting area. There would be no way to be "hubcentric" on my 4x4 and it still has all the factory studs.
Some of you guys are worrywarts. Put the darned wheels on the car and drive it, or send them to me and I will take care of them for you! Gene

 

Worry worts. I can say that, because I am an engineer.

My 4x4 rig runs 225lb.-ft. of torque through a 3.83:1 first gear, a 10.44:1 transfer case ratio, and a 4.88:1 axle ratio. For those bad at math, that is a 195:1 low ratio, or an effective 43875 lb.-ft. of torque at one axle, or 21937.5 lb.-ft. to each.

It can be operated with just the front axle, just the rear, or both.

Get this, all four wheels, eight lugs apiece, are lug centric.

I regularly mash the throttle all the way to the rev limiter, and have been doing so for about seven years. No problems with lugs yet.

The sky is still not falling.

It is enough to do this to a 1-1/2" 4130 Chrome-Moly axle: