I have a question about front tire size. I am currently running 165/15s on "skinny" 3-1/2" Centerline Auto Drag wheels on my T-Bucket. I have been running this setup for about 10 years since purchasing the car from the original builder. The car has been very reliable and handles very well, but I am concerned about the very low front scrub line it has. I have a 4" dropped tube axle with welded 4-bar batwings. It looks like it may be a Total Performance or Speedway axle, but I can't tell. The axle is set with about 10 degrees of caster, which makes for good handling but puts the bottom part of the batwing about 2" above the pavement. I am planning to try to reduce the caster (maybe 4 degrees is enough?) and see if it still handles OK. Even at 0 degrees of caster (not going to do that), the batwing would only clear by about 3 inches and the sidewall height is about 4 inches. I would feel better with more clearance, so I am considering going to a larger tire with a greater aspect ratio. I would have to go with a wider wheel, but it seems that used Centerlines are widely available and I could buy new ones if necessary. I have looked at many T-bucket pics, but it is hard to tell tire size. I have also looked at HAMB threads on this topic, and it looks like there is a wide range of opinions on the subject. I still want the traditional bigs and littles look, but that should be no problem because of the bigs I have on the back. What size front tires are some of you running? Any advice would be appreciated.
The biggest I ever ran were 165X15 or 5.00X16 ,a lot of my fenderless cars ran 145X15s. Taller/bigger tires are going to look like shit on that car. Change the axle or batwings.
I'll catch a lot of heat for this, but I would leave it alone. You have driven it for 10 years that way with zero problems so the odds are that you will be ok. I would just keep very good tires on the front end and monitor them. Your car (from your avatar) looks great and sits just like a zillion other buckets that are driving around ok. As much as we would LIKE our cars to be perfectly engineered the fact is by design they sometimes have components that have to be the way they are to fit and look right. Every car I have had could be picked apart for some design, safety issue, but I have never had a problem. As much as we like em, our hot rods aren't Volvos with crumple zones and all that neat stuff, and we just have to be careful and do the best we can. But if you feel strongly about it, you could revamp the front and go to wishbones that would sit higher on the axle. Don
I can't argue with the two replies so far. I haven't had a problem yet - "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" does apply to this. I know that home built cars may have some parts that aren't designed by an automotive engineer but work OK. The guy that built the car did a great job and I have been fortunate to benefit from his craftsmanship. I do like the stance of the car and don't want to screw it up with a tire that looks too large. I have considered modifying the batwings so the lower 4-bar end is higher, but am unsure about how to do it. The axle is chrome, so I'd rather not ruin that by welding. I have looked at 4-bar batwings for spring-over front ends that have the lower end just slightly below the axle center, but they aren't designed for a spring-behind configuration. I have also considered going to "suicide" batwings that are for hairpins and spring-behind, but would need to get an axle with the vertical perch bolt holes. I am trying to save money and don't want to have to buy a new axle and hairpins. I probably will just leave well enough alone, as suggested. Any thoughts on the 10 degrees of caster? Changing to less caster should gain me some additional clearance but may not be worth the trouble and could possibly affect the excellent handling (considering it is a T-Bucket with buggy springs at both ends).
Tman, I didn't mean to leave you out when I mentioned two replies. Your reply was posted as I was composing mine. I appreciate the good advice so far.
10 is slightly steep, but not bad. I have always shot for 7-9 with Ford spindles and 4-6 with Chevy (49-54) spindles, but every car is different. You said it handles great, so you know how it drives now. Maybe bump it down to 7 or 8 and see if it is better or worse, assuming you have early Ford spindles. If they are Chevy or Total Performance, you might even go to the 4-6 degree number and be ok. You can always go back if needed. Don
The spindles are Econoline - basically the same dimensions as TP's. I also have drum brakes and do like the old school look even though I am well aware of the advantages of discs. I can get an axle that will accept the spindles and suicide batwings with haripins, but don't want to spend the money if I can help it. I think I'll just leave everything alone for now unless someone has a low-cost suggestion.
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