383 stroker question

your buddy didn"t clearance the rod bolts and they are hitting the cam lobes. a buddy of mine bought a motor that someone else did had the same problem, # 7 for sure

 

The block is ground for the rod caps but your saying to check the bolts to see if they are running into clearance issues. This motor was running about 4 years ago fine would this still maybe be an issue (rod bolts)

 

These are the engine specs that I have:

Keith Black flat top pistons
1.65 trickflow roller rockers
trickflow twisted wedge heads
Edelbrock performer rpm dual plane intake
SSI cam 510 lift 490 duration
3800 TCI stall converter
TCI streetfighter turbo 400 w/shift kit
One pair of custom hedmann headers
Holley 750 cfm dual feed carb

My buddy says this dynoed out at 450 hp and 480 tq

 

Sounds like way to nice of an engine to just crank it up and see what happens.
Larry T

 

Yeah that's why I want to take my time and make sure what the problem actually is. I also have a 54 crestline which is my next project but I'm keepin the engine stock 239 y block.

 

About two months ago, crank broke, #7&8 rods bent, pin on # 7 piston put a hole in the block, rear main cap broke and oil pump broke...............

 

Ouch that sucks

 

I'd prolly tear it down these guys are right too much motor to chance it! Gotta protect that investment!

 

Cheaper to buy gaskets than another motor...

 

^^^true!

 

Good news I pulled the heads off and there was some rust at the top of cylinder number 8. I made a mixture of tranny fluid and kerosene and was able to get it clean everything is rotating fine now. However I do have a new question/s about the cylinder head mating surface, I should use a block as long as the head to surface the deck right about 200-250 grit? Also use the same grit and process on the aluminum heads? I have never resurfaced an aluminum head for this. Please let me knoe any info will be helpful.

 

Also what do splayed end cap bolts look like or do all 2 bolts have them?