Will One Shot hold up to gasoline (Cam 2 or other racing fuels) ? I was thinking of having my Dragsters gas tank lettered................. Is this a bad idea?
Maybe he had one of those cerial bowls as a kid that said "all gone" when he finished eating. Sorry couldn't help myself.
Before it cures out, yes gas would take it off. Once its cured nope, its gas safe. I've tried all sorts of chemicals trying to find a simple way to remove 1shot, there isnt one that works.
1Shot is alkyd enamel, not the greatest for resistance to chemicals and solvents, and not completely compatible(or compatible at all) when covered with more modern enamel and lacquer clear coats. There are other paints much better in that regard. But...... depending on the paint and the color they are generally harder to stripe and letter with. If you want better resistance to fuel I suggest doing the job with acrylic enamel. Little or no reducer will be needed. The color makes a lot of difference in how well it works. It can be done with single stage polyurethane enamel too. The few times I have done it was because the needed color was handy. I didn't add catalyst. It cures slowly that way, but it will eventually dry. I have never done uncatalyzed polyurethane on anything that had to be durable or cleared over. It held up very well indoors, but for anything beyond that I don't know how well it would or wouldn't work.
Soak a rag or paper towel in Lacquer Thinner, Acetone, MEK, Tolulene, etc. and lay it on the surface. Keep the rag wet for best results. Wait 10-15 minutes, then scub lightly. Repeat as necessary. Oven Cleaner also works with the same technique.
I must have amazing 1shot in my shop. i've tried laquer thinner on it, no results, and easy off oven cleaner didnt touch it at all. Both i tried keeping wet over it as well
I don't know how you could be more wrong on both counts.... 1 Shot is made specifically for lettering and striping and acrylic enamel will not stand up to gasoline.........
Older One Shot I'd say yes,but the newer stuff without the lead or tolulene or whatever they took out for EPA reasons,well... Mix a few drops of hardener in it while you're pulling your letters and wail away! Best of luck with your project!
I can attest that gas will remove one shot striping. I had some nice lines on the top of my model a gas tank, a friend accidentally over filled the tank and the 1 shot literally washed away without even wiping it. I say go for it and just use caution when filling up. Even if you spill and it comes off, it gives you the opportunity to change it up! Best of luck and post some pics if you do it! Do it!
I'm not sure but I think they have changed the formula in easy off. I know I used to use to clean chasis parts and engines and it doesn't seem to work as well as it did then. Just 2 cents. I have not had a bad time with 1 shot comming off from gas. Did my moms lawnmower spilt gas on it and no problems. Each situation is different. I'd think if you are really worried by it you'd probably want to add a hardener and have it cleared once finished. I think would stand up well. Good luck.
I've got the same problem, I've been trying to get some striping off, and nothing seems to touch it, no matter how long it soaks. I've worn clean through the base coat trying to scrub it of.
Naaaaa......... Funnels are for sissy's..................... I am going to spill Cam2 (at $12 per gallon) all over the place!
What I posted is first-hand knowledge and experience, but you can believe as you wish. Compared to alkyd enamel(1Shot), acrylic enamel is bulletproof. Remember the old cars that were painted with enamel, the ones that tended to chalk and fade quickly, and couldn't tolerate gasoline being spilled on them, and needed a new paint job every two or three years to stay looking new...... the enamel those cars were painted with was alkyd enamel. Even the nitrocellulose lacquer also in use at that time was better in most ways than alkyd enamel. Until the recent switch to water based paints, tractors and off road equipment were still commonly painted with alkyd enamel. It covers well, you can get by without primer under it, and it's relatively cheap, and relatively safe to work with, but just like the old days, it caulks and fades, and is inferior in most ways to modern paints, including acrylic enamel. One of the advantages of 1Shot is that you can apply and remove it without affecting the underlying paint. That makes it easy to correct mistakes. But do the opposite, apply a different paint over alkyd enamel, and you are asking for trouble. That should tell you something about how alkyd compared to other paints.
It has been my experience that fresh 1-Shot(less than one month old)is very susceptible to any type of solvent;especially gasoline.If I am doing a motorcycle gas tank and it isn't going to be top-coated with clear,I recommend applying several coats of paste wax to retard solvent damage in case of a spill.I also recommend that if gas is spilled on the surface,a cloth should be used in a blotting motion rather than wiping across the art work.This helps remove the solvent quickly without allowing it to penetrate the surface.I have also noted art work chipping and flaking off if the fuel cap is vented to the atmosphere.The fuel molecules seem to attach themselves to the paint and cause it to lift. If you are not going to clear over the art work,I would advise against using a catalyst in the paint as it has been my experience that the catalyst causes the paint to become brittle and chip off readily.A catalyst should be used only when a clear top coat will be applied. What were you planning on lettering on the tank?Could it be lettered on an adjacent panel instead?
We vend here on the east coast. Mainly the swap meet thing. Are digger is now in the final paint and lettering stage. The body is pretty small, so we want to add are logo to 3 gallon pressure tank. I was thinking that clear coating, would be the way to go.
I agree w/ safarinut and others who insist OneShot WILL NOT hold up to frequent or constant exposure to gasoline, nor will it to many petroleum distillates "stronger" than say, mineral spirits for that matter. Like safarinut, I'd suggest clearcoating the work with an automotive urethane (after it has cured at least 15-20 days) . BUT be careful, it too will "alligator" OneShot if you put it on too soon or too heavy. And in my experience, urethane will begin to break down over time w/ constant exposure to gasoline. Safarinut also provides excellent advice about wax... but I think he'll agree that even wax will soften OneShot if it hasn't completely cured. Good luck!
1-Shot can be top coated with urethane clear in a 24-48 hour window BUT......there are several precautions you must take to ensure that it won't lift. First you must know that the clear you are using is compatible.I have had good luck using PPG 2021 and 2042 clear and DuPont 3000 series clear.I'm sure there are others but these I know for sure will work IF......... You mix a small amount(a couple drops is usually sufficient)of the catalyst used for the clear you are using into the 1-Shot.The surface to be lettered should be sanded and free of contaminants.If you are working over just a base coat I would recommend putting on a clear "intercoat" rather than working over the base coat.Base coats are pretty fragile and if you mess up it is almost impossible to completely remove a mistake.Using a barrier coat eliminates this problem and you still have a "window" to work within. Application is best done by starting with a VERY light tack coat and waiting about 10-15 minutes before applying a second light tack coat.Another 10-15 minutes and a wet coat can be applied.The tack coats allow a barrier to be set up between the stripes and the final clear coat.Also the least aggressive reducer should be utilized to inhibit penetration. I usually apply this between 24 and 48 hours after the striping or lettering is layed down.I find that if you wait too long you run more of a risk lifting the artwork. As an aside I have found that you CANNOT use the 887 flattening agent in the clear over 1-Shot.There is some ingredient in it that promotes aggressive lifting of the art work. As for waxing the surface;I have actually used a Final Finish polish on relatively fresh (8 hours)1-Shot to remove Stabilo pencil marks with no ill effects on the paint.For using paste wax I usually recommend waiting at least 2 weeks and doing 2 or 3 coats using a light rubbing technique.Have never had a problem doing that. Just my opinions folks.
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