carb popping?

A quick and cheap remedy for sticking valves (frequently a problem with long term sitting not running).
Try drizzling about a cup of automatic transmission fluid slowly down the carb while running at a
fast idle. It will smoke like hell but that won't hurt anything.
The ATF will act as a solvent when it hits the valve stems and often will fix sticking valves.
This is an old trick that often fixes the problem for $1.99.

 

flat cam

 

i may have missed this if so I apologize...I had a carb popping on acceleration that was advance related, try to disconect the vacuum advance and see if it goes away

 

Thanks for all the sugestions guys, but I'm thinking Jonny Gee put the nail in the coffin on the cam!! Gee thanks Johnny!!
JK man, but I've heard the ticking since I got it going again even before I rebuilt the carb. I'm still hopefull it's a valve sticking, but not very. I'm still gonna go through the motions and check everything starting with compression and finishing with adjusting the rockers with a lot of carb tuning inbetween! But first I'm gonna go ahead and put the lower ball joints on the daily and hope I can get another 6 months out of it. That'll give me time to get my heads done and find a cam, and carb for the 4 barrell intake I've been holding onto.
So next question, without doing any more changes to the valvetrain besides the cam, whats the best cam for a 283 without getting stupid? This is gonna be my girls car, so I don't need race ready, just more gidyup!

 

A .390/.410 commonly known as a towing cam will give a bit more grunt, with out killing gas economy. They sound good also.

 

I'm voting with the one other "running lean off idle". try holding the choke partially closed and see if the miss on acceleration goes away or improves. If the miss is only under load, which is what I'm hearing, then I would doubt a flat cam.

.02

Russ

 

Zackly....had a 283 in a 57 BA several years back...started popping upon acceleration...turned out to be a burnt valve. Good excuse to make a 301 out of it.

 

I agree with broken valve spring. It was on a 327" in my '50 chevy. After I replaced the carb and a lot of beating my head on the radiator. Good luck.

 

You double check your firing order sounds like a crossed plug wire

 

Was it popping before the carb got rebuilt ?

 

there is a check ball under the squirter (if I remember right) that sticks... usually when rebuilding the carb, no one pulls the carb all the way apart and this is commonly overlooked... had that issue on a 307 out of an early chevy pickup... cleaned out the orifice and loosened up the check ball and the carb worked great, popping went away.

If it pops at idle, look for this check ball. If it is only under acceleration, check the rockers and has been suggested for a bad cam lobe or three

 

Here's a feel good update for all you guys, I pulled the carb off this morning and went through it again. Everything looked good, but I cleaned it all up again and put it back together. Then I blew the carbon off the valves, checked the plugs, installed new wires. BTW MSD streetfire under the manifolds are too short to run under the manifolds!! I had to retard the timing cause instead of changing plugs or wires the old timer that had it just adanced it to keep it running. But it runs good. DAMN GOOD!! No popping or hesitation or misfires!! Just a shitty carb rebuild! That'll learn me! Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I learned something and thats all that matters, that and the car is running!