Folks, What sort of luck have you had galvanizing frames? I'm swapping out the frame on one of my drivers due to rot and am considering what are the best options to to prevent this from happening again. This particular frame is susceptible to rust through due to the boxed design and layout of the punched holes that trap sand and water. Also, anybody know who is TX will galvanize a car frame? The closest one in SA won't touch a car frame. Adios, Dzus
Don't, It will warp. real galvanizing involves molten zinc dipping. you could try something like this. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=593878
We just had a customer with a jeep that he brought to us to blast. When we got his jeep apart it was toast. The frame had been rusted through from the forward rear leaf mount back. The guy he got it from filled it with bondo and painted it. After finding another jeep to continue his project he had us blast it and he had it galvanized. The one thing the guy told us is that most factory welds wont hold up to the process, so we had to touch up any questionable welds. We went over the leaf mounts and body mounts just to make sure. I dont know who he used to galvanize it, but if you check with my boss (ntxcustoms) he might know. I do know it wasnt cheep! edit: it was galvanized in texas, I think in the dfw area.
I've heard of people making aftermarket frames for early british Landrovers that were galvanized...not sure if its from galvanized sheet or dipping after though. Maybe you could check the internet for those frames and perhaps get some info on the process or even have them do the deed for you. Worth a look!
Yep! I've personally done this on numerous Land Rovers and even a Range Rover classic chassis. They are all boxed and are notorious for rusting out. We have them dipped and have never had one warp. There is definitetly a lot of clean up after the process.
As Niceguyede said we have a customer in the shop now that dipped his frame. I have a pic of it here somewhere and I'll post it as soon as I can. It looked freakin awesome and personally I would have left it as is, but he decided to top coat it. If you decide to paint over gal. you have to wait for it to fully cure (it'll start getting its common whitish look) otherwise it'll need to be throughly sanded.
will be galvan dipping my chassis but was pointed that if the material thicknes is to thin it will warp ,
Galvanizing reduces the fatigue resistance of steel. Whether that would be a significant issue in your case I can't say. Galvanizing is good at preventing corrosion, but everywhere the surface is chipped, scratched, or otherwise compromised, galv anic corrosion accelerated deterioration beyond what would otherwise have occurred. This is what I would do: - Media blast and thoroughly clean the metal. - If you can find someone with a tank big enough to deposit a layer of zinc phosphate do that. Otherwise, it can also be done manually, but it's a lot of work and pretty messy. - Apply a good quality zinc-chromate epoxy primer. - Paint with a good quality epoxy or polyurethane paint.
You can hot dip galv the frame just fine. The main thing you need to do is make sure its clean rust & contamination free. Tell the galv shop not to quench the frame so it will accept a coating powder coat or paint
Stuff I build at work gets done all the time. There can be no fully boxed in areas that are un vented and there needs to be full drainage. Your biggest obstacle will probably be finding a place with a large enough tank.
Wow good info. What I need is some way to protect the inside of the boxed sections, where you can't readily spray a coating. Who did the galvanizing job in dfw? Does anybody in TX do the zinc phosphate coating?
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