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Puttin' Perfume on a Pig...307 Tech?!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fat Hack, Feb 20, 2005.

  1. Frosty21
    Joined: Jan 25, 2007
    Posts: 958

    Frosty21
    Member
    from KY

    Just got my $50 ebay performer intake today. Anyone got a used cam suited for one of these motors?

    Can't wait to put my "little" engine together.
     
  2. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,843

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    307 's can make real nice runners in a light car .Here's 2 examples .A buddy of mine had one bored 30 over and mild cam and a Holley 600 .Plenty of lowend.Fast Camaro My personal Frankenstein ,307 ,350 cam and heads ,advanced 4 degrees ,Holley with 10.5 power valve.The Thing had plenty of lowend power ,At 100 it was topped out.This was the first motor in my 1 st Chevelle.
     
  3. Not to pee on ones parade,,,LOL,,,but no matter what you do, don't you still end with just another sbc? Who cares? Oh, sorry,,,LOL,,,you sbc's guy care. Just screwing with you so don't get your panties is a wad
     
  4. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,558

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    Pee pee on you, you poopie face!
     
  5. RacerRick
    Joined: May 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,756

    RacerRick
    Member

    Be careful when angle milling a head like has been suggested! There is a lot more to it than just milling it!

    You not only have to mill the intake flange to true it up, but also have to spot face all the head bolt holes to the new angle! There should be enough slack in the holes themselves for the bolts, but studs will be a no go. Then because of all the milling, you have to use offset dowls to move the head up towards the center, so the intake will bolt on without having to stack gaskets!

    It will also require longer custom length push rods for proper geometry, and the pushrod slots in the heads need to be ground for push rod clearance. Unless you have the jig to properly clearance the push rod holes and do it properly, you should go to guide plates, which means screw in studs.

    You can also only do this on earlier "heavy style" castings that have the full flange on the lower head bolt holes. The later lightweight castings don't have enough meat and you will end up cracking the heads.

    You are rotating the valve angle a few degrees for better flow which is a common trick. However, you also still end up with a poor combustion chamber design that the heads started off with the spark plug in a poor place and now its lower in the chamber which makes it worse.

    If you want small chambers, just get one of the good 305 castings (416, 601, 801).

    They used the same ports as the 350 with as little as a 53cc chamber that is actually designed well with double quench pads. They also have decent sized valves in the HO versions of the heads. - 1.84, 1.50. The 305 heads also flow about 200cfm stock, which is about the same as the 1.94 intake valve version of any of the 76cc chamber heads.
     
  6. Frosty21
    Joined: Jan 25, 2007
    Posts: 958

    Frosty21
    Member
    from KY

    I'm selling the miserable TBI 4.3 in my '54 Ford to finance my 307 build.
     
  7. Frosty21
    Joined: Jan 25, 2007
    Posts: 958

    Frosty21
    Member
    from KY

    Anyone know the stock compression ratio for these engines?

    I read somewhere that they were advertised as being 9:1? Mine is a 70 Model Vin Engine.
     
  8. Frosty21
    Joined: Jan 25, 2007
    Posts: 958

    Frosty21
    Member
    from KY

    This month's Hot Rod Deluxe has a feature on a 283 block with a 327 crank combination. They managed to break 400 horsepower with typical mods and 2x4's on a tunnel ram.
     
  9. 56oldsDarrin
    Joined: May 9, 2009
    Posts: 396

    56oldsDarrin
    Member

    Experience has shown these are great little engines, a friend of mine drove a warmed up 307 all over (in a 69 chev P/U) and swore it got 22 MPG on the highway.
     
  10. cavisco
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 43

    cavisco
    Member

    I was wondering if anyone has built a stroker motor with the 307? The 1970 and later block should accept the 305 or 350 crank, use the 5.7 rods and a Jeep 4L/2.5l piston. The silvolite 2228-30 is the right diameter for a 0.030 overbore, 1.581 compression height and a 0.931 pin diameter. I think this would put the piston about .005 down the hole. It would require resizing the small end of the rods. This would yield 333ci. Anyone see any show stoppers with this?

    Scott M.
     
    ls1yj likes this.
  11. 65nova
    Joined: Sep 21, 2009
    Posts: 5

    65nova
    Member
    from Fort Wayne

    I have kept this thread on my computer for the last few months. I am building up my 307 and have been because I am curious as to how much power I can get out of it.
    .30 over bore
    58cc 210cc runner aluminum heads
    Xcellarator single plane intake
    Bracketmaster 2 cam 515 lift 300 duration the 58cc chamber is supposed to raise the 515 lift .30 to make it a .545 lift cam.
    plus lifters
    Full roller rockers
    4130 +100 pushrods
    750 carb
    3000 stall
    turbo 350
    4.11 posi rear
     
  12. CruZer
    Joined: Jan 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,934

    CruZer
    Member

    Just want to add my thanks for this thread. I have a 1971 307 in my '34 Ford roadster with a TH350 and a 10 bolt rear with 2:87 gears. the motor has a performer manifold and Edlebrock 500 cfm carb, unknown slightly rumpy cam and Hooker headers.
    With these gears I can't even think about a burnout ,let alone do one, but the car accelerates OK,cruises at 70 effortlessly and gets me 21mpg AND it sounds mean (even if it's not !)
    I can tell I'm getting old because I love the fact that this engine fires first time every time and runs great,so I don't really miss the hard acceleration I had with all of my other rods.
     
  13. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,753

    Deuces

    The idea of using the big valve 305 heads on a 307 or even a 327 build would work great on those engines... The 2 sets of 305 heads I have, one pair of '76 and another from '77.. They have the 57-58 cc chambers and the 1.84 dia. intake valves. And they have the hardened exhaust valve seats which is great for today's unleaded fuels. Plus they're cheap!! So, before you guys chuck that tired old 307 motor... You might want to take a long look at it and think of the possibilities... I prefer using the 307 crank in a 350 block for a little more cubes. :)
     
  14. promachine
    Joined: Apr 5, 2010
    Posts: 18

    promachine
    Member
    from chico ca.

    I built a 307 8 years ago for the engine masters challange, I used a 400 crank and bored the cyls. to 3.935 for 365".
    When I sonic checked the block had plenty of meat left.
    If you look at most of the oem bore and stroke combinations used today you will see that the strokes are getting longer and the bores are getting shorter.
    I used some of GMs fast burn heads with vary little work done to them and this lttle 307 made 565 hp and around 480 lbs. ft. if I remember right.
    Yep, I had to have pistons made for it and she had a huge hyd. roller cam so it wasn't cheap to build.
    I have built simular combo's for some local circle burners and they perform well. The 307 is one of my favorites.
     
    Speed Gems likes this.
  15. Hot Rod Bob
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 1,146

    Hot Rod Bob
    Member
    from T-ville Ky

    I just may build one,Got it given to me free.
     
  16. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,150

    slammed
    Member

    Scored a +.60 over 307 from HAMBer Mickticulus. Going in the '61. This board never fail's!
     
  17. StingerChevy
    Joined: Aug 17, 2010
    Posts: 7

    StingerChevy
    Member

    Just wanted to say Great Tech, FAT! I wish you had finished it! This is a help for me in the building of my 307.
     
  18. geberhard
    Joined: Jan 9, 2007
    Posts: 2

    geberhard
    Member
    from California

    Wow, I remember seeing this thread a while back and am very grateful for all teh info and dropping back in again.

    I just picked up a rig that had a 307 (3932371 on the back of the block), last week. It had been sitting forever, and was fun to bring life back to her again. As I have other plans for the car I will possibly be pulling the engine out in the near future, however woudl like to give more life to it and enjoy and cruise the car in the summer until I start a "Fall tear down", body, paint, etc, when I am planning to remove the engine.

    I noticed it has the smog pump on the front, probably robbing whatever HP is left on this puppy). It has the 3 barrell carb which seems to be alive and kicking in. I am going to do the usual back to life thing with the car, fluids, tune up (replaced the old bad fan clutch).

    Anything I can do that does not involve a tear down and major work on the engine while in the car? I.e. remove the smog pump, change timing, etc?
     
  19. gerberhard... Welcome to the HAMB!

    A Holley 3bbl can be worth some decent money depending on the application/stamp code.

    Do yourself a favor, post an introduction here:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=18http://

    It does't matter to me but the 'intro' is a HAMB rule. Many 'old' members will get their panties in a wad without one.

    Oh, and removing the air pump is good for a couple HP, plus it helps unclutter the engine compartment.

    You can keep bumping the timing up until you encounter pinging under a load then back it off a hair. Test again.

    I've used this method on motors with mismatched parts and you'd be surprised how far off timing marks can be.
     
  20. HRK-hotrods
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 922

    HRK-hotrods
    Member

    I have a mild 307 in my SS Nova & love it, especially when I put gas in it.... The 355 that was in it ran like a bear but the milage sucked. The 307 will still bark the tires but the gas milage is hard to beat. Its held up to 12years of beating with only a few oil leaks now... I have one going in my 29 Chevy coupe.
     
  21. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    can i have the formula to build my 307 please
    what year heads will work
    what cam to use as far as model # and what company
    should i use hydraulic cam or solid
    i have the rpm intake.650 holley street carb fenderwell headers i just need to know what cam and heads to use i also have a small block 267 gm motor will these heads work ? thanks
     
  22. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,150

    slammed
    Member

    Read the entire thread. Apply the weight and rear gears you plan on running. Driver or bruiser? That will dictate your cam. Heads are your also up to cam and your wallet.
     
  23. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    i have 58 cc heads on my other motor wich this thread says they are great to use gears are 411 in the rear ?
     
  24. Babyblue57
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 18

    Babyblue57
    Member
    from Argentina

    I've read all this post and I'm trying some of it myself.
    1970 307 block, 020 bored, Comp Cams 268H, Crane Full roller rockers, Eddy RPM Air Gap, Eddy Performer 600 cfm carb, Trick Flow alum 56cc heads ( 1.92, 1.50) valves. TH350 with stock 3.36 GM diff.

    I plan to start it next weekend so I'll tell you how this recipe turned out.:D
     
  25. Racewriter
    Joined: Nov 14, 2008
    Posts: 780

    Racewriter
    Member

    I fell ass-backwards into some of this knowledge when I was in high school. My first car was a '68 Chevelle with a 307. Was a dog. So, I scrounged up a 4-barrel intake and Q-jet off a 350. Bought a mild RV-style cam for a 350; I want to say it was a Comp 260H. (this was 1985.) Pulled the old cam out of the wheezer, and where the hell were the LOBES? I figured it was just a crappy grind from the factory until I showed it to my dad and he found where several lobes had gone flat. Put the Comp cam in it, put the 4-barrel on it, and it was surprisingly quick and got 20 MPG. The only good thing about the cam issue was that it meant that most 307's didn't get run very hard, so the long block was in good condition.
     
  26. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,214

    mgtstumpy
    Member

  27. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    i just want to know if the heads i have will work and what cam kit to get as far aas lift should i go hydraulic or solid...
     
  28. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,150

    slammed
    Member

    Look you need to be clear in what your driving habits will be. If the intended use is toward drag then, w/ those 4.11 gears can handle a larger lift cam. Auto or manual trans? The heads will be fine, provided they have hardened valve seats.
     
  29. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,558

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    267 cylinder heads have 1.375 inch exhaust valves. THey make 283 power pack heads look full race. Almost any other sbc head would be a better choice.
     
    Saxman likes this.
  30. lorodz
    Joined: Jul 26, 2009
    Posts: 3,727

    lorodz
    Member

    HEATHEN<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_6769446", true); </SCRIPT>
    Old School HAMBer

    so i cant use the 267 heads. or i shouldnt. what is the out come using this head
     

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