Projects 1960 f100 short bed custom cab w/big window

Mine is a work in progress getting a drop axle in it right now. Did a spring under in the rear and c notch.

 

Where did you get your drop axle and how much is it dropped? Im not really wanting to notch the frame on thos one. I dont want to get too crazy on it. This one will be one of the more simple projects Im doing.

 

Its a custom tube drop axle. 7" of drop. I have a tread on it. "Russ meeks droped 1960 f100" the front of the frame had to be c notched as well. I know that CCP makes a drop axle as well that more a bolt in project.

 

Damn....see thats the thing, I really dont want to cut up the frame. If I do that I might aswell bag it and I dont want to put that much into this one. The truck shop in anaheim only has a 2 inch drop then I have to buy the lowering springs.

 

Just to answer some of your previous questions, that battery tray is original. No one makes patch panels for the cab there behind the front wheels, you're going to have to get creative with some fabrication. It's not as difficult as it looks, just square stuff off some rather than trying to make a rounded corner like is there stock.

 

It's not that hard notching the frame..heck I cut a big notch for the volare clip on mine..then in the back I'll be doing a c-notch.
You can do it! haha

 

I just dont have the skill,money,time or space to cut up the frame and clip it or even notch it.

 

56 Ford, have you looked into one of Sid's dropped axles?

 

Mrhavard, do they have a website?

 

56, check this out...

 

Thanks a bunch fauj. I need to figure this out fast because I need to get this truck up and going so that i can get my fairlane back home and in the garage.

 

I like em. I'm looking for one right now too. I've got a project t bucket and a 55 2 dr Customline. Working a deal for a 49 Studebaker truck and I still want one of these. With minimal work and $ you have a tough/cool daily. Good choice buddy.

 

redneck, thanks for the kind words. Yeah I have a 56 mainline aswell with a few other projects. Trying to focus on the truck and the mainline but its not hard getting side tracked haha.

 

I have been working alittle more on the truck just funds are a bit tight so I have been doing what I can. I got a couple different size and shaped wire wheels and started cleaning the frame with my drill. Im trying to get.all the rust,grime and what not off so then I can paint it. Im not too sure on what paint to use, I have heard por 15 but its kind of pricet and from what I hear it sticks better to non cleaned surfaces. My buddy suggested rustoleum and its priced right and not hard at all to use. What has everyone here used to paint the frames on your car?

Now for the suspension, the front leaf springs are pretty much shot and the rears arennt perfect but probably can be re-used. What I want to.do is lower it as much as I can with a drop axle and lowering springs. Or could I do blocks all the way around? I really dont want to cut up the frame at this time. Im trying to make this project as simple as possinle. I see that the truck shop in orange has a dropped axle but its only 2 inch and their stuff is kind of pricey. Any other shops around here?

For the last major thing on this truck will be the wirring. I would like to re wire it because everything is soo old and brittle. I would like a somewhat original or stock harness. Where the front harness meets the firewall how it plugs together I noticed most after market harnesses arent like that. I domt want to have to drill or plug a bunch more holes. I found that the truck shop has an original style harness that converts to.alternator for $525. What are your guys thoughts on all of this?
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Some stuff to do right you just can't do it cheap in my opinion. If you rustoleum the frame it probably won't last. The problem you're goof to run into is that with no notching or anything up front you're going to have no clearance between your axle and frame which is going to mean a stiff ride. As far as the blocks go, the rear end is sprung overthe axle, so blocks there will be a lift. It's a little more work but filipping the axle would get you pretty low out back. Blocks up front are generally frowned upon for safety reasons though.

 

And as for the wiring, for the money I'd go with an aftermarket harness. They've made these things so easy to install now that they're hard to say no to. Not only would it be easier on your wallet but you'd be gaining a fuse panel which can mean less headaches down the road. Take your time with it and you can make it look as clean as factory.

 

I've got 3.5" drop mono's on the front of mine and it rides pretty well.. just make sure you get a decent drop shock and trim the bump stops a bit.. But, six of one and half a dozen of the other since a 3.5" mono spring cost about the same as a 3-3.5" drop axle.. Once you combine drop springs and a drop axle you'll need to look hard at your steering angle, though.. The rear is a different story.. If you don't wanna mess with the frame your options get pretty limited.. Custom made shackles is what i'm looking at right now since I still use mine as a truck.. Plus you could remove some leaves and have the main springs reversed.. I've been kicking and measuring around mine for a month now and I think I can get around 4" lower without having to mess with the frame or removing too many leaves..

 

Too many descisions and options here. Im really honestly not trying to lay frame or scrape with this thing. Just lower it as much as I can without having problems.

 

If you clean it up good enough I think it will be ok.. It's lasted 51 years with no rustoleum or POR-15 at this point so cleaning it up and putting a rust killing and preventive paint on it is probably an improvement over the current state..

 

Thats exactly how I was thinking about it. Or if there is a different type of paint I can use that wouldnt come off soo easily besides por 15.

 

My 59 runs right through the firewall (no plug)...I guess that changed in 60.

FYI - I bought a replacement harness for my 59 (six cylinder though) and it was virtually identical right down to the connectors and colors. If you are interested, inquire at Classic Ford Parts in OKC.

If I recall, my harness was about $250 or so.

http://www.classicautoparts.com/

 

For some reason I cant get the website to load sobI can check out the pick up parts.

 

If you clean it really well and use a couple of coats you'll be golden.. Think about it.. these frames just came with basic paint from the factory and stood up this long.. We've had 51 years since then and we can get better paint in a rattle can than they had on the assembly line in 1959-1960.. If you wanna totally strip the frame, then sandblast it, then frame coat it with whatever people suggest it's gonna last, say 100 years more.. But are you gonna be driving this thing in 100 years? I'll leave it to you with my experience with Rustoleum.. I have a set of valve covers off of a '56 Y-block that were super straight but covered in rust.. I didn't really need them but was bored out in the shop one day so I sanded them smooth enough and put a coat or two of Rustoleum Primer on them.. That was a year ago.. I accidentally left one out to dry for two months in the late part of winter in southern Oregon..It had one afternoon of good wheather to dry and you can't tell the difference between the one that was in the shop and the one left out.. I can only tell because a hair off of my head somehow made it's way into the paint on the one I had in the shop

 

I wont blast and powdercoat this frame, I already did that to my 56 sedan and it was alot of work and I plan on keeping that car for a while.

So your advice is not to ise rustoleum thwn right?

 

I believe that was more of an endorsement for rustoleum than anything.

 

Ok cool well I guess I will go buy a gallon of rustoleum then

 

Well I was reading theough another hambers thread on his 60 f100 if I remember right and he purchased an original gauge cluster and all real gauges instead of the dummy lights. What f series trucks had those? They had an actual water temp gauge,oil pressure gauge,amp gauge and the usual fuel and speedo. Any ideas?

 

56, Not sure if this is the thread you were talking about for the gauge cluster. Looks damn cool though.

 

Its not that one but pretty similar

 

Be sure to post up the link when you find the one your're looking for. I am interested too.