Rock, that's very cool. Call me when you're going to pick it up if you need a hand...I'll be glad to tag along for the ride. You'll find a lot of guys at the p15 forum that know about the old mopars. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/forumdisplay.php?f=2
The wheel bolt pattern is 5 lug on 4.5 inch circle. This is very common for Fords and Mopars. There are some exceptions, but there are a ton of choices. The wheels are held on with bolts, not nuts on studs. The pin is to help hold the wheel in place to start the bolts. Left side (driver) wheel bolts are left-hand thread!!!! I'd strongly suggest doing a bunch of homework and planning before diving into parts and vendors. You will find that aside from NOS parts, there are limited new repop makers, and many places simply sell the same stuff at different prices.
Ah, it all comes back to me now. Thank you so much for the picture RodStRace! I don't pick the car up for a couple weeks, so I couldn't look directly at it. I now remember those wheel bolts and the purpose of that damned stud. I'm thinking if you loctited some grade 8 studs in those hubs, you'd be good to go with lug nuts. Right?
If you want a dead-stock car, no - use the bolts. If you want a driver and you have to fix the brakes anyway, replace them with more modern equipment!!! Rusty hope, AAJ, Ply-Do, Scarebird. Search and research! This ought to get you started. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/search.php?searchid=9236831 Research the stock stuff and see how much it will be, including buying or borrowing the special tools....
The shocks mount between the upper and lower control arms on a 39-52 Mopar. Like stated above, figure out what you want the finished car to be, otherwise you will have a huge money pit. There are many different directions you can go with this car, changing directions mid way just adds expenses. The above link doesn't work. Gene
Congratulations on your new ride, looking great! Just in case you need to find some trim/special parts check out www.fatfenderedrelics.com. Another good one is lindsay at [email protected]. Just picked up some new headlight bezels from him. He's been collecting a lot of parts during the years for his two 41's. Good luck.
Rock.....heres mine, a 1941 Plymouth P11 Auxillary Seat Coupe, built RHD in Sth Africa, it has the uncommon folding rear seat, otherwise the same body etc as all the 1941 Plymouth Business Coupes. As for wheels I have a set of 15x6 and 15x7 Wheel Vintiques Chromies, standard wheel offset with 195/75x15 and 235/75x15 Coker Classic Whitewall radials, big improvement over the original crossplies, one coil cut from the front end with 2" lowering blocks on the stock rear springs, stock engine at present but a hotted up 230 six with finned head,twin carbs,split exhaust & T5 gearbox is planned........Andy Bernbaum is good to deal with BUT make sure YOU know what you want as he can be a bit grumpy............lol........looks like a nice Plymouth you're getting.........oh and the brown car looking over its shoulder is its older brother, my 1940 Dodge Sedan.....lol........regards, andyd in Oz
Thanks for the advice, guys. Darn, Andy that is a great looking car!! You say standard offset, what is the backspacing on those wheels? I love that look.
Rock, pretty sure from memory that the fronts were 3&1/4 and the backs were 3 & 1/2" from the inside of the rim edge to the inside face of the wheel mount centre........btw I have used the original left & right hand thread bolts, gave each bolt a complete thread clean and made sure I had the best set for each wheel, also knocked the wheel centering rivet or lug off the brake drum then found I had to grind them almost flat and also grind the rivet heads that are between the brake drum threads down by hald as the rivet heads fouled on the inside mounting face of the wheel. Eventually I intend to run discs all round so the rivet heads won't be there anyway or if you decide to remove the drums and insert proper wheel studs from the inside and use normal, say Ford wheel nuts it would be fine also. I wouldn't just screw threaded bar into the brake drum holes tho'.........just my 2 cents worth there.......lol..........btw front end wearing parts like king pins, inner & outer bushes etc are the same up to 1956 for all Plymouth & Dodge. Checkout the P15-D24 Forum on the net, great bunch of guys and while its established for the 46-48 Plymouth & Dodge if you don't upset them they'll let use earlier guys play too.......lol...........regards, Andy Douglas, andyd, andydodge.......whatever.
Hard to go more than 4 inches, I beleive stock is 3.5. I went aftermarket smoothies. 5 in wide 15's with the 4 inch back space. Some oe said you coulr run 7 inch wide like the later police wheels. Front interference is with tie rod to sterring nuckle, rear is with springs.
Stock rims are 4" wide, but thats a moot point as I have 15x6 and 15x7 rims on my stock 41 Plymouth suspension/steering without a problem, o/k its RHD BUT the rhd stuff is just mirror reversed LHD, and the tyres/tires are 195/75x15 front and 235/75x15rear, and clear perfectly even with 1 coil cut from the front end and 2" blocks on the rear.........so for 1941 at least they fit fine........andyd
(This is duplicate information to my post on the P15 forum) New information on my P12 Plymouth Special Deluxe Business Coupe. It is a P12 and the sn on the engine is P122395I2B, so it's a numbers matching car, I guess. What cubic inch is this motor? HP? I put the car up on my lift and am even happier now than before. The car has no rust through holes in the fenders and the fenders have never been bent. The frame is very solid, as are the pans. The pans have a couple of small holes no bigger than a quarter in them. I'm sure I could make them larger but we're talking patch panels, not replacement. The chrome is in amazing shape given its years and all the trim is there. I think I saw one knob that is not correct. It has the chrome (or is it polished SS) glove compartment door/instrument panel. The "wood grain" has been painted over turd brown. The tires are hard as a rock and it needs shocks, tie rods and a master cylinder repair. What are the chances the master cylinder is repairable with a kit? Or, should I order a new one? The wheel cylinders are not leaking. Another question. Did the doors not have weather stripping? There is none on the car now and I can't see where it might have been. I'm sure the trunk had it but it does not now. In short, I bought a very solid car. I can't believe how thick the sheet metal is. I believe I could blast it and would find very little exterior rust to repair. The repairs I found would be easy. For now, I'm going to get it driveable and cruise around in it for a while. The guy I bought it from drove about two hours from Morganton, NC to Greensboro. He said he had two people try to wave him over and buy the car on the way here. (Remember, it's AutoFair week) He said, "I'll guarantee you have the only one around here." I don't know if that's true, but I've not seen another one..........and that's a good thing. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
I had a P13 Special Deluxe B coupe as My first car. Paid a $100 for it and drove it home. Had it for 20 years before it got legs............ Engine is 201.6 ci I just brought home a P11. I'll post it's build in a few weeks.
Checkout Andy Bernbaums catalog on line at www.oldmoparts.com , weatherstrips and other parts are listed by year, seems like a ggood price, I used a generic weatherstrip for my Coupe as the US-Oz postage would have been a killer for this stuff........front shocks, and other wearing parts are basically the same from 41 thru to 56, check Bernbaums listings as it will help to work out the general "interchange" between the years........yep 201 Cubes, 95 thobbing HP........as for the master cylinder .......I wouldn't trust a NOS one without a kit, personally I'd get a brass or stainless sleeve put in it, if you can get a NEW built one then fine also, check the wheel cylinders and brake hoses, cheap insurance.......lol.............andyd
Thanks, Andy. I ordered enough parts from Andy B to get started yesterday. I should have them by the time I get back from vacation on Friday. I'm going to take the master cyl apart and then decide if I need to sleeve it. Got any pics of the door seal installation?
http://ply33.com/parts/vendor P15-D24 site is a wealth of info, this is the links page for even more sites http://www.merc583.addr.com/mopar/framesets/linksframeset.html The door seals were glued to the flat edge or the door and sealed against the body IIRC....Steele has a listing for a generic one. <TABLE width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=160></TD><TD>Weatherstrip, door edge. Superior quality sponge. Popularly used this period, including 1941 Plymouth. Please measure doors for required length.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> Metro also has a generic one. <TABLE style="BORDER-RIGHT: #999999 3px solid; BORDER-TOP: #999999 3px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #999999 3px solid; COLOR: black; BORDER-BOTTOM: #999999 3px solid" borderColor=#999999 cellSpacing=2 cellPadding=4 border=3><TBODY><TR><TD><FORM action=http://www.metrommp.com/metrocart/AddToCart.cfm method=post><INPUT type=hidden value=PLYMOUTH name=Make> <INPUT type=hidden value="SPECIAL DELUXE" name=Model> <INPUT type=hidden value=.0000 name=Shipping> <INPUT type=hidden value=3.4000 name=ItemPrice> <INPUT type=hidden value=1 name=Taxable> <INPUT type=hidden value=1 name=StartR> <INPUT type=hidden value=1 name=VendorID> <INPUT type=image src="http://www.metrommp.com/metrocart/addtocart.gif"> </FORM></TD><TD>LP 40-A </TD><TD> [SIZE=-1]view large image [/SIZE] </TD><TD>Door Side Seal. Same as LP 40, but for a lighter seal. Fits many domestic passenger cars and trucks. Universal seal for street rods and customs. Sold by the foot </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Old thread but looking for some info. Does anyone know what the centerbore is for aftermarket wheels on a '41 Plymouth and does anyone know what the minimum backspacing is as well?
Centerbore on aftermarket wheels is almost always larger than stock, so it will fit various vehicles. Do a web search for lug centric VS hub centric. Minimum backspacing? As in the least amount possible? You can run the inner lip almost even with the wheel flange if you had to, but what width wheel? Changing the backspacing depends on total width. The most BS is the normal question, or asking how wide you can go, not what is the minimum BS! Normally, the older wheels had zero offset to a slightly negative offset.
I used American Racing Torque Thrust Wheels; rear 16 x 7, 5 x 4.5 Ford bolt pattern, 4" backspace, with Goodyear 215 x 65R tires (could probably go to 225/65R); front 15 x 6, 5 x 4.5 Ford bolt pattern, 3.25" backspace. I t gives the car a much cleaner stance and look. Also gets rid of the bicycle tire look of the original 16" x 4" tires The locating stud can almost remain intact or trimmed down slightly as there is room for it to fit in the spoke pocket (you'll likely want to keep it to accommodate the stock spare tire). The wheel hole is larger than stock so I used concentric locating spacers from US Wheel adapters, Inc. out of Lubbock, TX. They have plastic and aluminum and can be made to custom sizes. I used custom aluminum spacers sized to 83.06 x 71.44 mm and they were a perfect fit. Because the wheels use lug nuts instead of lug bolts I could not find left hand lug nuts for the wheels. I could not find anyone able or willing to drill and refit the drums to wheel studs either so I simply purchased two more right hand brake drums; problem solved. You can likely sell the replaced left had drums for more than the right hand drums cost. Andy Bernbaum's out of Needham, MA is still a good source for most all needed Plymouth parts.
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