Features Econoline Madness Who's got one?

It sounds pretty good... and is actually a lot louder inside than outside. I need to insulate the dogbox yet. I tried to upload a video once, but it didn't work. I'll try again.

FWIW, I created the trident tips with a u-bend and a straight piece. All 3 tips are "live" but the exhaust only comes out of one of them thanks to fluid dynamics/exhaust flow.

 

oh now coby !! a 6 aint so bad .... if you wanna race lets go!!
inline 6 300 -240 head -4 barral- headers - msd- backed up with an aod .. she gets down the road comfortably at 95... hahahahahaha

wait till she's painted... maybe debuting at motoramma!

photophiles vc

 

As good as mine runs I cant imagine going down the road at 95 in her. 65 is plenty scary enough.....

 

I'm going to be coming from all directions on this post.

I have a '64 window van but I really want a pickup. I'm thinking of cutting off the vannishness and making a flatbed. I'll need to make the back part of the cab from scratch or from part(s) of other vans/trucks.

I'm building a 300 I6 engine with a forged crank, turbo and two Maserati Biturbo carbs on an Offenhauser dual-quad intake. (It's true.)

The suspension is totally gone from under the fan, so...

...I'll be putting a Mustang II front end up front and ...

...I have a Jaguar posi rear (3.31 ratio) for the rear end. The old 9" out of the van measures 61.25" hub-to-hub. The Jaguar independent rear measures 61.25" hub-to-hub. (Again, it's true.)

The transmission is a Getrag S-542 (I think that's the number) out of an F-150 or F-250. I have to fab up some kind of shift linkage to make that work.

What do you think: cut up the van or sell it and buy a pickup?

Thanks for listening.

 

Sounds like a cool set up!
If the van is that far gone, I'd sell it for parts and get what you really want. The trucks aren't that hard to find. OTOH, building a totally custom pickup, unlike any stock looking one would be cool... think a Ford version of the Deora

 

car32, I sure hope you have the talent and drive to complete this, otherwise, it will be yet another cut it up and done deal.
I agree that finding the body you want is the right way to go. They are not that hard to find and can be cheap. Save the hard work for all the mods planned, that's plenty!
I'd save the van for parts as needed to finish up the PU, then sell.
Example of a PU body
http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/2442086225.html
another
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2433019927.html
listed here...
http://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/f22-e-vans-for-sale

 

Here's my '61 Craigslist find...

 

Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

HELP!!! I need a drivers side front spindle/hub/backingplate (64-67). Started tearing my axle apart & found a bad bearing had eaten the spindle & hub and allowed the brake drum to gring through the backing plate. Anyone have a spare they are willing to part with?

 

I see the axles in the classifieds often, but I bet if you sign up to one of the Econoline Yahoo groups, you'll be able to find one.

 

Here you go! It was still warming up, so it sounds a bit choppier and meaner than usual.

'89 Lincoln 302/5.0L HO with Edelbrock Performer intake/carb. 2.5" exhaust (homebuilt) and I forget what the glasspacks are but they are not "Cherry Bomb" brand.



My daughter is all set to drag race

 

Thats sounds great..........I love those belled tips.

 

Thanks for the advice on the van/pickup question.

The van I have now doesn't have a clean title, so I should probably just get a pickup that does have a good title and kill two birds with one stone.

As for whether or not I can finish what I start, that's a good question. My current 6-year project is almost done: '61 Falcon Futura with a 302, air suspension, hydraulic clutch, body seams welded, pancaked hood and deck, 2-1/2" top chop, all done by me. I'm hoping the van/pickup project will take less time, but I didn't think this one would take this long. Ever heard that story?

Of course, I'm trying to find things to make the whole project take longer ...

... like maybe fabricating some swing-out dual front windows like an old VW Kombi, etc.

Thanks again.

 

37655_135432979825148_135426079825838_158790_6318508_n.jpg (73.4 KB)

june 2011 011.jpg (490.1 KB)

Before and after (So far) hope you like.

Cheer's Dave.

 

Sorry' having a spot of bother posting me pictures, the one on the left is the most recent...................... I'll get me coat

 

Nice! What size are the tires in the rear? I'm trying to figure out the widest 15" rim & tire I can fit in the rear wheel well. I think the answer is 8". Not sure about the tire yet

 

Thanks mate I think your about right there, mine are 10x15 slots on the back and y'wouldn't get them under stock fenders without raisin' it up as I have .

Dave.

 

NEWB needs some interior advice. Did a search but really didnt find much. Have a 66 panel and am ready to start on the interior. Job 1 is to get some insulation in there. Definitely on a budget! What have you guys used that was simple and inexpensive to install?

 

I haven't used anything yet!
I know someone who used a foil-backed wool insulation in her dog box and it worked well. If it works there, it will work on the walls! I think she got it from JC Whitney. There are several threads on the HAMB regarding insulation... from Home Depot stuff to high quality. Do a search. For your application, cheap would work.

 

I have some of that foil-backed wool stuff and was going to use it in my dog house but I am not sure how to attach it. Any suggestions?

 

I would stay away from the cheap home depot stuff i used it and when the engine bay got hot it all fell off

 

Scorp, there are 2 things you are trying to do on the inside.
First, sound deaden the panels so it's not like living in a drum.
This requires use of a thick heavy rubber like patch on each section. It does NOT have to cover the entire panel, just enough to mute the vibrations. This is stuck right to the panel, so paint first to prevent rust.
Next, you want to insulate for noise and temps. This will fill the entire area, and you don't want something that will collect moisture and hold it against the metal (like the ol' pink stuff).

There are a lot of discussions all over the net on this job.
Econoline
http://econolines.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=3270
Corvette
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-...ssion/1434671-its-done-c6-insulation-kit.html
Vintage vans
http://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/search?search_keywords=insulation

It seems that the main consensus is that you can overpay for the fancy stuff, but there is a minimum cost to get something good. Don't try to cheap out on the materials.

 

Found a carb rebuild kit for a ’65 I had many years ago – still sealed inside – anyone need?
It's Free!
First pm gets it

 

Still looking for a 64 - 67 drivers side spimdle & hub assy. Somebody has to have 1 layin around somewhere. Understandable nobody wants to split up a whole axle, but my springs, axle & passenger side are fine, just need a drivers side.

 

Bull Tack works realy well, but there is a wide variety of 3M spray adhesives at the hardware store. I'm not sure which would work best

 

I put money down on a pickup, hope to pay it off next month.

Meanwhile, the van will be used for parts.

So...

...if I put a Mustang II front end under the pickup, do you think that scavenging a cab-forward steering setup out of, say, a 1986 Toyota van, might work? I'm heading to the junk yard today to hack one out in hopes it will come in handy down the road. It has a tilt wheel and all the necessary rigging to mate up to a rack very similar to the Mustang II. It kind of goes forward to a reverser box and then has a rotating rod that goes back to the rack. If I can get it out of there successfully, I'll take some pics.

...or should I go with an S-10 swap? It seems cheaper than a Mustang II, has about equal options for upgrading but it does not have a rack and pinion steering system and I haven't seen a manual setup, only power setups.

Thoughts? Thanks.

 

Links to "my" pickup:

http://www.pikespeakmotors.com/vehicledetails.aspx?vid=126034422#

 

would LOVE to see pics of this project. I had my eyes on putting a MII set up under by Dodge van. LOTS of room there. The Toyota steering is interesting... I was thinking of using a SteerClear box ($$$)... but if there is a junkyard solution I'd be interested in seeing how it works.

 

Instead of grabbing the Toyota steering today (not enough time), I crawled under the van to measure the frame, etc.

Here are the measurements of both the Eco and the S10:

S10 inside frame rail to inside frame rail: 23"
S10 outside frame rail to outside frame rail: 31"
S10 distance hub to hub (front): 51"

Full-size Chevy seems to be about 3" wider through the frame, could make a better swap candidate if you read below...


Eco inside frame rail to inside frame rail: 33"
Eco outside frame rail to outside frame rail: 38"
Eco distance hub to hub (front): unknown (since someone gasserized another vehicle with my axle before I bought the van)

Other Eco dimensions you may wish to know:

Inside front fender wells, there is either 12" or 15" of room inside to outside, depending on how high up in the well you measure (there's a hump at the top that diminishes the space side-to-side).

The minimum distance you can have between your tires, inside edge to inside edge, is 42". And that distance only works if you don't turn your wheels, so you probably need to add 5 or 6 inches to that number.

The maximum distance you can have between the tires, outside edge to outside edge is either 66" or 72", again depending on how high up in the fenderwells they go because of the hump mentioned two paragraphs above. Also, this number should probably be 5 or 6 inches less because you'll want extra room in there for turning.

So, that makes a "safe" zone for the front tires of between 48" and 66", meaning the insides of the tires should be at least 48" apart and the outside of the tires should be no more than 66" apart (assuming you don't lower your Eco so much that tires would hit the "humps" inside the fenderwells -- and even then, it would only hit while the wheels were turned). So, if you had an 8" rim with maybe a 9" tire on it, then you'd want your hub-to-hub distance to be 57" with 4" backspacing. That technically puts the outside-to-outside tire distance at 66" and the inside-to-inside tire distance at 48". I'll measure again and let you know if my calculations were correct.

In the rear of the Eco, the inner fender "lips" are 48" apart (inside of the left to the inside of the right). The outer fender lips are 70" from the outside of the left to the outside of the right. If you're doing your math at home, that means that the rear fenderwells are 11" wide apiece in the back, narrower actually than the fronts.

For me:

The dummy, 6" wide, 3" backspacing wheels I put on my Jaguar rear end were 52" from the inside of one tire to the inside of the other tire. The outsides of the tire were 68" apart, so it looks like the Jag rear will drop in place as long as my wheels stay close to the dummy wheels' dimensions. If I go much wider, I'll have to run more backspacing and tub the rear...no biggie considering that I'm already cutting out the bed to get at all of this stuff.

Thanks for listening...

 

i have a 64 econoline 5 window 6cyl 4 speed on the tree drive it every day have a econoline grope on face book Joe Bassett