Gettin real tired of this thing. I am sure it's more me than the FE, but grrr. Here are the issues: 1) After sitting for more than three or four days, the carb (realitively new Edlebrock 650) looses all the gas. I can't see it leak, I can't smell it and it doesn't flood. Due to this, I have to turn it over for several minutes to pump enough gas into the carb for it to start. Once it starts it runs perfect. 2) After running it for a while, say 1/2 hour or more on the road and after she heats up good, she dies when stopping at a red light. Acts like it's flooding, but she starts right back up. She did this with my old Edelbrock carb so I tried another one. Same thing. Any ideas?
Are you running mechanical pump or electric?My 400 Sb Chevy did the same thing ,after installing electric pump problem stopped. I also installed a carb spacer. You are definitely not the only one that has the problem with the edelbrock carb.
...... Might also help if you used a 1/4-1/2" thick phenolic spacer between the carb and the intake manifold.....
Edelbocks are known for fuel evaporation (or maybe leaking down), either way as they said put in an electric pump to fill the bowls when you turn on the key - or get a Holley.
I had the same problem with an Edelbrock carb. My issue turned out to be too much fuel pressure (went away with pressure set to 5lbs)
The stall at red lights for me was too high float level. The spec is kinda high, so less than the book height worked. Also higher fuel pressure raises the fuel level. I found 4 lbs to be a happy pressure with the Edlebrock. I prime with a bottle, a shot down the throat get her going. I think today's fuel evaporates a lot faster than years ago. And maybe the surface area and mass of the edelbrock retains a lot of heat when it's hot and shut off agravates the evaporation. I run a heat shield under the carb and a thin (maybe 1/4") insulating gasket under the heat shield.
Beep FE's with the gas mix they are selling now adays and FE's are known for fairly warm intakes i would say you are having a fuel evaperation issue. I would check the fuel level in the carb and set it slightly lower than edelbrock specs and install a good fuel prusher regulator set at 5psi. I would also add a heat isolator between the carb and intake. Also make sure your fuel lines are not to close to any heat sorce.
Edelbrock's have fuel bowl vents that can lead to evaporation when the engine sits. Carter's (where edelbrock got their design) will do the same thing. If you've got the stock cast iron manifold this will help speed the evaporation process since it will retain heat for quite a while. I believe that the fuel bowl vents on the Edelbrock's can be adjusted. I haven't done it myself, but see if you can get a schematic and find the fuel bowl vents. You may be able to adjust/restrict them a little to keep so much fuel from evaporating. Don't plug them or restrict them too much though, as that will obviously cause problems, you don't want to pull a vacuum in your fuel bowls. The other solution, as others have mentioned, is to replace the mechanical fuel pump with an electric. A spacer may help a little, but it will really only make a difference for the first few/several hours after shut off. After that the manifold temperature won't be contributing too much to the evaporation.
I have TWO aftermarket genuine Carters with MAJOR modifications on my 390. In the summer, both will be bone dry after a hot shutdown within 30 minutes! An electric fuel pump solved this issue. Mine do not stall at a light, regardless of the temperature, or how long I am required to sit at the light. The difference is probably in the calibrations. I wanted the Carter A/M castings instead of the Ford castings. The A/M Carters are calibrated for Chevrolet. I replaced the primary and secondary venturii, the primary and secondary jets, the vacuum piston springs, the metering rods, and the secondary air valve in both my 625's with those from donor Ford castings. This got me very close. A little tweaking on the metering rods is all I had to do. The calibrations for the Ford FE and the Chevrolet are as different as a Chevrolet LUV is from a Mack! Jon.
My 390 with a 650 Edlebrock has the same starting problem, but runs great after it starts, it does have a 1/2 inch spacer. Still working on the car and sometimes sits for several days before it is started.
Like a few others have mentioned, be sure to install a heat-dissipating spacer between the intake and carb. I think Edelbrock even sells one that isn't very thick. I've had problems very similar to what you describe (on an FE, as well as a SBF) and the carb spacer solved the problems. Malcolm
If fuel is leaking through the carburetor, it is leaking thru the float valve. The leak is caused either by debris in the valve, or the float itself is set too high. If it is a new carb, either is a possiblity. An electric pump will fill the fuel bowl, but won't stop the leak. Pull the dipstick and check to see if your oil smells like gasoline, or is overfull...
Edelbrock carbs are crap! Ran several and ended up replacing with holleys, no more problems! Never ran good on any of the Ford motors I ran for some reason
I have been driving a 65 Ford pu for 38 years with a 410 Merc and a 390. I have had real good luck with shoebox Autolite carbs (60s era) they perform well and are reliable.
I've got an FE 390 with Edelbrock 600 on it. Haven't had any issues with the carb at all. Mechanical fuel pump, small spacer. It's never had hot starting or idle issues, it still has the original cast iron intake and it gets plenty hot here in the valley (100 F +). The whole holley vs. edelbrock thing just comes down to what you're used to tuning and working with. I was used to Carter's from all of my mopars, the edelbrock's are a piece of cake.
i have two FE's and not a problem. stock pumps and no spacers... also running Holleys. Seems like carb issues/adjustments.
I've had a couple 390's do that in hot weather. Mine were 2 problems. Vaporlock and gas boiling out of the float bowls. I put a phenolic spacer under the carb, and swithched from a steel fuel line to rubber that fixed it.
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