I'm looking for any option other than getting my master cylinder/booster rebuilt because its way to expensive. Does anyone know what I can pull a master cylinder/booster off of to replace mine? Or one that would be semi-easy to modify?
i dont have a answer to your ? but suggest you go back and do a intro! before you get your ass chewed by everybodyhttp://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=18
there is a guy on ebay that sells a modern booster and master that is set up for our cars that run about $170, but well not work if you run a tall valve cover like I am (offenhouser). I have manual brakes and use a 1970 F250 master, but I also have 1972 Torino from spindles and disc brakes with 1990 ford areostar front coil springs. hope that helps. Make sure and do an intro, they get touchy around here about that. edsel
Check out "booster Dewey" he's been around for years and is very helpfull. I have used him and have been very happy. Hemmings is where I found him also try googling him
Quick tip of the day: If you have an Edsel or Ford and want to put the bigger dual output master cylinder, use a 1967 Mustang unit. It will be a direct bolt in except for having to change the brake lines. Note: Ensure you are getting a Drum (F)/Drum (R) master cylinder for your Edsel. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
Do you need a proportioning valve when you swap in the Mustang Dual Master in Drum/Drum set up? I have a '59 Ranger with a single and want to split it up, I am fine with drum/drum non boost so will keep it. But like the idea of not having a total loss of brake with the double.
Hi CS, No, keeping it drum/drum as it is. Just want to have that feeling of comfort you get from two reservoirs. LOL
Proportioning valves are 'fixes' to correct imbalance in a brake system. So a system with good balance doesn't need one. They're common in hot rodding as few builders have the engineering data to pre-determine if the installed brakes will give that when sourcing calipers/drums from other vehicles or the aftermarket. The OEM manufacturers generally used fixed (non-adjustable) valves to correct balance when needed as that reduced the number of brake parts needed. The adjustable ones are actually race parts, where changes in tire wear, track conditions, and fuel load affecting brake performance allow tuning of the brakes while in use. If you're happy with your brakes performance, no valve is needed.
There were many drum/drum cars and trucks that could have/should have used a proportioning valve "back in the day" (because of common early rear slide) but Gov. braking and stopping distance requirements were very lax. When (US) front disc brakes became available in the mid '60s, it was obvious something had to control rear drum brake pressure to prevent early rear slide because of the disparity between disc and drum pressure requirements, and proportioning was developed. Braking regs were still pretty lax until 1976 when stringent stopping distance and fade requirements became law, mandating the use of prop valves to comply for most vehicles. Adjustable prop valves were used on some factory '60s disc/drum vehicles, JFYI. I have a couple. You may call them a "fix", but they are an essential part of most disc/drum and disc/disc systems, until ABS eventually made them obsolete. They actually add the number parts, not reduce. I can only remember a couple of '90s euro cars I tested that complied with DOT regs without using a proportioning valve, and these were very well balanced low production 4 door high end ($$$) luxury sedans, far from the normal high production car/light truck. Bottom line is you do not want the rears to slide before the fronts, whether drum/drum, disc drum or disc/disc.
Did the 67-69 Mustang Drum/Drum have a proportioning valve? Can't find a listing online. Or would anyone know a universal one that would work for my application? At 19+ feet with Continental Kit last thing I need is rear end sliding Oh also, what about residual valves???
Mustang and all other drum/drum systems did not use proportioning. Vintage drum brakes used and needed residuals, but they will also help later mid '70s-up drums with slightly better pedal feel.
I have a proportioning valve in my '59 Ford in case I had to adjust the rear brake bias, so far it stops well wide open. I haven't had to touch the adjustment. It was also convenient to run the lines from the master and out to the front and back of the car.
I see in the Pony site that they sell external residuals and Cardone tells me their M/C has none so I should get a pair.
Well the front wheel cylinders on the Edsel have a bore size of 1.125" and the rears are a bore size of 15/16".
The Jalopy Journal
