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Projects Master Cylinder Rebuild Illustration 1954 Chrysler

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bab59, Jun 4, 2011.

  1. bab59
    Joined: Jul 25, 2008
    Posts: 557

    bab59
    Member

    Anyone have assembly or rebuild illustrations for a 1954 Chrysler New Yorker? Which way the cups, spring and valve go?

    I disassembled, honed (no pits)and put back together with new cups in what I though was the same sequence but cannot get any pressure build up after installing. Anyone have any assembly illustrations or a place to buy a new cylinder? I have took off and went through it 3 times with no luck. The car does have power brakes and I bypassed that and still have nothing. HELP!
     
  2. bab59
    Joined: Jul 25, 2008
    Posts: 557

    bab59
    Member

    Bump for night crowd.

    Would putting a wheel cylinder cup for the secondary cup make a difference?
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2011
  3. 53 hemi
    Joined: Jan 8, 2009
    Posts: 501

    53 hemi
    Member

    Andy Berbaum at oldmoparts.com sells new MCs for your car.
    I just rebuilt the MC in my Dodge - don't know how similar they are but I don't think a wheel cylinder cup would work in mine.[​IMG][​IMG]
    These are photos from my Dodge service manual. I don't know if they will help.
     
  4. 53 hemi
    Joined: Jan 8, 2009
    Posts: 501

    53 hemi
    Member

    I'm not sure if it would be your problem.
    Is this a stock application?
    Did it work before?
    Are your shoes adjusted properly?
    I had an issue for a long while with a reconditioned master - I had to pump to build pressure. After lots of headaches I finally pulled the master last week to try again and found that it was leaking from the inside cup - all internal - and just enough to stop me from getting good pressure.
     

  5. bab59
    Joined: Jul 25, 2008
    Posts: 557

    bab59
    Member

    All stock application. Just went through wheel cylinders and hoses and bled. It was working for about 75 miles. Car has been sitting since 1987. It locked the front brakes up something in line?
    And I cleaned everything ran new fluid through it again and then it started leaking. Took it off put new cups in and that is where I sit.
     
  6. 53 hemi
    Joined: Jan 8, 2009
    Posts: 501

    53 hemi
    Member

    Well ... Basically this is the way I understand it. If your MC is working ok ( only you know ) and everything is adjusted and still no pressure it should be an air in line issue, or a blockage. After the front tires locked up did you pull the hubs and check everything out?
     
  7. bab59
    Joined: Jul 25, 2008
    Posts: 557

    bab59
    Member

    Yes all is well.
    We pumped and pumped the brakes and could not get any pressure build up...
     
  8. 53 hemi
    Joined: Jan 8, 2009
    Posts: 501

    53 hemi
    Member

    Sounds like it's time to run to NAPA and get the proper cup. Good luck.
     
  9. bab59
    Joined: Jul 25, 2008
    Posts: 557

    bab59
    Member

    Thats exactly how it is put back together. Only thing changed was the two cups. The secondary I had to use was from a wheel cylinder kit. Would this be causing all my grief?
     
  10. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,290

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    Why would you have to use a secondary cup from a wheel cylinder? And how would that fit around the piston itself? What was wrong with the secondary cup from the kit?

    Did you hone the cylinder before putting it back together?

    I know, alot of questions, but if not asked then how does one propose a solution.
     
  11. bab59
    Joined: Jul 25, 2008
    Posts: 557

    bab59
    Member

    I did not buy a kit I just bought what I could at Napa for 1-1/8 bore. Cylinder was honed.
     
    CaddyRat likes this.
  12. oldodge
    Joined: Sep 4, 2010
    Posts: 48

    oldodge
    Member

    I had a similar problem with one on a '49 dodge. Part #18 in the diagram is shown as going in first. On mine there was actually a rubber piece that needed to go in first. It is actually used to seal the valve and maintain slight pressure on the brakes when the pedal is released. The originals had a seal built in to the valve and as such the extra piece is not shown in the original diagram. without this piece the piston was not positioned correctly under the holes in the master cylinder and it would not build pressure when the brake was pumped. The piece looks like a rubber wafer maybe a 1/4" thick with a hole in the center.
     
  13. 53 hemi
    Joined: Jan 8, 2009
    Posts: 501

    53 hemi
    Member

    I just realized that the rubber wafer isn't in that diagram. Strange. It was, however, included in the NAPA rebuild kit. Good job pointing that out.
     
  14. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,290

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    Here is a link to Kanter for MC kit for your car:

    http://www.kanter.com///productdeta...0&Vdr=&Itm=&MDv=1&MDpt=0&MSb=0&Cat=53&Prc=232


    napa auto parts: (UP143 kit)

    https://www.napaautoparts.com/Catal...599001+101954+50020+2020052+26325&Ntk=Keyword


    This is from a 54 Dodge, which should be the same, as my flat rate manual shows that Chrysler, Desoto, and Dodge used the same kit for 54.
    get one of these and rebuild it again.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2011
  15. oldodge
    Joined: Sep 4, 2010
    Posts: 48

    oldodge
    Member

    Here is a pic from over at P15-D24 that shows the wafer I was speaking of, it is labled as "G". This pic has a couple pieces out of installation order but the digram posted earlier in this thread is correct if you just add part "G".
     

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  16. bab59
    Joined: Jul 25, 2008
    Posts: 557

    bab59
    Member

    Thanks for all the help
     

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