The Official English Wheel Thread

Hey,

The English panelbeaters and those in OZ as well use the term just as we use beading/to bead. Swage line, Character line, Body line all pretty much = beading!

 

Hey,

Has anyone actually used a "Super wide'' wheel as pictured @ Metalmeet 2010?

I'd think an upper wheel & lower anvil of that mass & inertia to be much trouble to control?



" Meanwhyle, back onboard The Tainted Pork "

 

OK,Here is my spin on an easy Quick release for my Ewheel .Thought it was a little bit of doodling at first ,however it works quite well except for the release that I will change if I go through enough boxes and find a centering flip valve that could be moved from side to side if needed.Dan


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJU1RME9H4s
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__________________
Dan Pate

 

Here is mine



and a link to the build pics

http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/communityalbums.cgi?action=openalbum&albumid=9980149907863

Works great.....

 

If you look at the photo of my Kendrick (on previous page) you will see that there is a handle on the inside of the frame. Clearly this could not be used to crank the wheel through 360 degrees. It is used to 'rock' the wheel for wheeling small parts.

You are right though on Edwards machines the hande can be put on the out side of the frame at the back and it can then be used to crank the wheel to make swages.

I googles Hecko but could not find any info. The Edwards machine is very different to the Ranalah. I have used both machines and much prefer the Ranalah. I sold an Edwards machine to make room for the Kendrick.

Here is a photo of an Edwards



And this is a Ranalah



You can see in the photo of the Edwards the shaft coming out of the rear of the machine backing onto it.. The handle can be slid onto this.

I have made razor edge coachwork and I don't use the handle to create the coach-line. Many Bentley's had this type of coachwork. In fact it can be done on a wheel without a through shaft. A through shaft means that there is no obstruction on the the outside of the top wheel for tipping and edge stretching.

David

 

Looking back through this thread I noticed this machine has Trident cast into it. It is not an exact copy of any machine made here in England as far as I know and I have seen most of them. I is definately not a copy of the Edwards or the Ranalah (In my post above)



I hope this helps,

David

 

Hey David,

Thanks for the heads up on the "Trident'' cast wheel from Canada, I've wondered bout them for some time.

The "HECKO" referance was an ill fated joke bout how, here in the US, just bout everything is ''outsourced'' or made ''offshore'' "HECKO" is spanish for made, as in MADE IN MEXICO, CHINA etc.

I've looked @ a few cast wheels for sale, here in California, but they're usually stupid money with missing anvils & a groved upper wheel. Any advantage with a Kendrick over a Frost or Edwards?

Here locally, a Swallow Sidecar/Jaguar restoration shop had a Streamline & an Avon bodied SS inhouse, both very nice lines & panelwork.


" Hypocrisy is the vaseline of social intercourse ''

 

The wide wheels are amazing, I haven`t built my big frame yet, so mounted them on my medium size wheel . If you come to santa maria I`ll let you try them and compare to the 3x3`s.

also a pic of my little wheel.
Gary

 

Dave is that an old MG ? love the lines

 

^^That first picture made me do a double take......thought it was has big as that guy.

And I didn't mean the MG.

 

No Its an SS100 ( Jaguar was SS before the second world war but changed it name after the war for obvious reasons)

David

Pumpin paint Of all the machines I have tried I like the frost or the Ranala most. They are the lightest in use and I prefer that. I have used the Frost most so perhaps its what you get used to.

Sorry the joke was lost on me! thanks for the explanation though, no wonder I couldn't find anything on google!

David

 

pimpin paint, have you been reading the one liners website?

 

Does your quick release have some kind of limiter on it that keeps it from smashing the panel between the wheels when it is moving up into position?? Seems like it grabbed a hold of your part pretty good when it moved up.

I LOVE the to wheel being on dove tails! Great idea! Would be great for tipping! Very cool!

 

Holy cow! Widest anvils I have ever seen!

 

Here's my work in progress. Still need to make the tool arm.


It's a 36" throat, made from 10x 4 x 3/8. Details on the build:
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=1952
Ian

 

Very nice, Ian!

Question! I've seen a few of you incorporate the removable lower section. What is the intent with that removable portion? Do you have something else that bolts in place for a different function?

 

i dont know much about these except that they are Tom Hanna's and the first one has a computer controlled motor to run the adjuster and runs off a load sensor on the upper wheel.....i also thought the round tube styling was cool.

 

Hello

Here is mine...in the cast and animated (by my bros. Rob) licensed by Edwards I believe to Brown and Boggs in Canada for the war effort,no more after 1950.This one has never been off its original shipping base!! 44" throat...my first wheel was a 33" Edwards

Cheers!

 

Does your quick release have some kind of limiter on it that keeps it from smashing the panel between the wheels when it is moving up into position?? Seems like it grabbed a hold of your part pretty good when it moved up.
The QR is seperate from the adjuster and will only lift as much as you have it adjusted.I am putting a different pedal on and will have more adjustment with my incomming pressures for the cyl.I also put leather stops for travel bumpers to take out the shock when it rises,but when I limit the air pressure it doesnt raise so quickly.
I LOVE the to wheel being on dove tails! Great idea! Would be great for tipping! Very cool!
Both the upper and lower fixtures are on dovetails and are pinned every 1 inch.My other reason to have these are so I can put other fixtures on as I also have several more male halves of the dovetail to use for install.I could use an angled lower arm if I get into banging into my lower anvil holder with tight crowned parts and such.I dont know if you saw the other upper adjuster I have that would be a companion to that.
My other thoughts were to make a ring roller atatchment or fender roller.The frame on this is very robust and will be good for several other uses.

 

The main reason is to give you the flexibility to add a different arm holding the lower anvils. For example, you might have a piece that was really deep and interfered with the standard arm, you could make a special arm for the piece.

 

this is my first E-wheel made from 5x5x3/8 square tubing with a lower adjuster with 42" deep




this is my current wheel made with 5 x 5 x 3/8 tubing with a upper adjuster 31" deep


I made the lower wheels out of 416 stainless steel


added a DRO on the quill for precision adjustment

 

Hi Shane,

there are six sets of these out there. they are 6x6 `s and really leave a great finish,

Gary

 

Slowly gathering the materials to make this:

more in the album.

 

OK, that makes sense. Thanks!

 

Okay! That's what I figured! Thanks!

 

Yeah! Very cool! Did you make your own dovetails, or just cannibalize another piece of equipment? Thinking this might be a good option for a wheel that I'm going to modify.

 

speachless......

 

Been meaning to post this one. This is Steve's wheel at Lime Works... Wish I had some better pictures. Couldn't get a good shot of the whole thing from the front, for some reason...







Here's another one I found on the internet, though...

 

Hey scoot,

Thanks, that's jus what I need, more images of cast wheels plastered on the inside of my head ( as if I could spare the space) and a Ranalah @ that!

I like the little ''hanger'' Steve has to cover the top wheel, probably a good idea in a small shop where welding & grinding could damage the face of the upper or lower wheel!

" Humpty Dumpty was pushed "

 

Cast iron machine.


Upper wheel & anvil rotated 90 degrees for larger panels.


Upper wheel is 5 inch wide 8 inch diameter.