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Hydraulic Clutch

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by htrod, May 29, 2011.

  1. htrod
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 417

    htrod
    Member

    I am just about finished with my 31 Roadster. I went to bleed my clutch slave cylinder and found that when all is the air is gone I can hardly push in the clutch. I am using a 1961 Chevy dual master cyl and an unknown slave that fit my bell housing. Can anybody tell me what is wrong. Also I am using a set of old Ansen pedals that fit nicely.
     
  2. FrozenMerc
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 3,100

    FrozenMerc
    Member

    I would venture to guess that the Dual master cylinder is not generating enough pressure easily (due to a large piston diameter). I would switch to a single chamber master cylinder design for clutches, not brakes.

    Good Luck
     
  3. First you need to verify that you can operate the clutch manually without the slave cylinder. Disconnect the slave from the arm, and try amd manually operate the pressure plate back/ clutch arm and forth.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2011
  4. dbradley
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,036

    dbradley
    Member

    I'm trying to picture how you've hooked a brake m/c to a clutch slave..... Get a clutch m/c, they don't have internal valves, are correct volume, etc and are made for the purpose. And, you will need to know what that "unknown" slave is for.
     

  5. htrod
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 417

    htrod
    Member

    I guess I need to explain that this master cyl is designed to do both Brakes and Clutch. The resivour is a common supply for the fluid, but each side works independently.
     
  6. seabeecmc
    Joined: Jan 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,186

    seabeecmc
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    For the uninitiated. Regards, Ron
     

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  7. seabeecmc
    Joined: Jan 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,186

    seabeecmc
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    With the compatible slave cylinder it'll work properly. Regards, Ron
     
  8. htrod
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 417

    htrod
    Member

    Ron

    The key is finding the right slave to go with this. The orig one mounts on the starter side of the block. Any Ideas.
     
  9. Check mechanical items first:
    Can the pedal move the master fully?
    Does the fork move the throwout bearing properly?
    Does the master 'move' physically, when you press either pedal under pressure?
    If all is well, you need a larger bore slave cylinder.

    Cosmo
     
  10. seabeecmc
    Joined: Jan 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,186

    seabeecmc
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Back in the day we swapped the original slave cylinder to the Left with a fabricated bracket fastened with bell housing mounting bolts. Good luck.
     
  11. Disconnect the slave from the transmission arm. Check each carefully to insure they operate and are not binding against each other.

    Check to make sure you have replumbed it correctly with the brakes to the brake side & clutch to the clutch side.

    Good luck
     
  12. FoxSpeed
    Joined: May 19, 2009
    Posts: 385

    FoxSpeed
    Member
    from NorCal

    Use the bellhousing that came with car... why did you change it?
     
  13. FoxSpeed
    Joined: May 19, 2009
    Posts: 385

    FoxSpeed
    Member
    from NorCal

    master was used as I said. Go to Napa and get a new one. Switch back to the bellhousing that was on the car when you got it, and all will be good.... Best wishes, Gary
     
  14. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    A bunch of useless replys from people who have never used this system !
    1 Did you swap the internals of the M/c side to side?
    2 The pedal set has not been modifyed with shorter arms ?
    3 Measure the bore of the slave needs to be 1&1/16 to work properly with this M/C.
    4 If the above check out I would then check out the T/O fork for free movment with a big lever/prybar etc.
    I'm running the same setup with a H/D 10.4 cover and have a nice easy pedel .
     
  15. Deuce Daddy Don
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,544

    Deuce Daddy Don
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Been using this setup out of 1961 econoline Ford since 1968--works great!
    I think your problem is in the slave cyl. match up with master cyl.bore.
     

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  16. what is the bore diameter of the slave cylinder? how do you have it setup? pictures?
     
  17. BLUDICE
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,512

    BLUDICE
    Member

    I had the same setup on my Tbucket - switch guts - make sure the slave is the correct size - and be sure the fluid lines are sized right. Worked great!!
     

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  18. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,678

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Like has been said - assuming you've got the brake residual in the correct bore for your pedal setup - you have two options: keep the slave you have and sleeve down the master clutch bore to work with that slave, or find a slave that will work with the master bore diameter that you have.
     
  19. willysguy
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 1,224

    willysguy
    Member
    from Canada

    Just a quick question, maybe a dumb one.
    On the master cyl. the brake is labeled on the left hand bore & clutch on the right hand bore.
    When using the Ansen pedals the clutch actuates the left bore & the brake the right bore. Do you have to take the cyliders apart and swap the internals from one side to the other side?
    Thanks Duane
     
  20. Dennis D
    Joined: May 2, 2009
    Posts: 851

    Dennis D
    Member

    Yep.
     

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