What I have is a 276 that was built by my Dad for drag racing in the late 50's. The coupe sat for 45 years but is now back on the road. I'm not surprised that after a 120 mile rod-run last weekend that now I have a blown head gasket. Problem is that you can see from the pic's that the home made headers are a "little" tight. I'm guessing the motor needs to come out, if that's the case then I want to make this old motor run on pump gas. So my question to you guys is what in you opinion needs to be addressed. My Dad has since pass away but I know this about the build. Bored .030 over balanced stock: crank, rods, rockers Jahns aluminum pistons Isky: cam, lifters, adj. push rods, valve springs oversize valves stock heads ported and polished 11:1 Thanks for any info or suggestion you could throw my way. Curt
you should be able to run pump gas (highest octane available, of course) through an 11:1 engine. Good luck with the gasket changing chore. what a beautiful car - your dad must have been a pretty slick dude. You're fortunate that the car was built so well. dj
You might be able to run pump gas - how big is the cam? Is it pretty choppy at idle? I am running 10:1 on my 330 Desoto and its fine on 93 octane. I also blew a head gasket. I installed some new ones from Best Gaskets and its been good so far. Really sweet car !
I've been told from some people that the way the timing is set up and the old skool leaded gas it was made to run on that to be safe just run race gas. Its 110 with lead and motor loves it, but with longer drives i think i'm going to try blending it with 92 and see if she pings. got to fix the head gasket first. Bummer. Thanks, CW
Awesome car. Great engine too! Not sure how thick the head gaskets are now, but you could probably add a little thickness to the head gaskets to bump that compression ratio down half a point. Might make things easier fuel wise, California fuel isn't the best for octane. Cometic will make any gasket you want, although it might be a little more expensive than just a standard gasket.
The general rule of thumb is a hemi can burn the same octane as a wedge 1 point lower, I E what you would run in something else @ 10:1. As was said the nature of the cam plays a role. Moparmonkey had a good point about the head gasket, IF it can be measured after removal, you might be able to find a thicker gasket, espicially if it has the thin metal gasket.
i dont see why you would have to remove the motor to change the head gasket, yes the headers are snug but the heads will be pulling away from them as you lift them up.
This, in theory, works but only if the header is attached with bolts. If studs are used then the header will have to move to clear the stud. ...a couple of random thoughts... Compression-- 11:1 is on the high side but until you actually drive the car and can play with different fuel you really don't know if it is a problem. In general terms, you will need about 0.050" to change the compression a ½ point. If you add too much gasket thickness you will have intake manifold fitment issues. A new cam with a 'very generous' overlap would be helpful. I would highly recommend checking the dome volume while the head is off and also check the combustion chamber cc's. Be sure to lay a straight edge across the block as well as the head to check for flatness. Also, consider that when the head comes off that unless you can match the gasket thickness then the other head also needs to come off. .
Early hemis are noted for not blowing head gaskets due to the fact that the heads are thick and not prone to flexing. Quite possibly the gasket material was not the best. I blew 2 sets on my 341 but leter learned the the gaskets were for a 291 and the bore size was too small. I got the correct size and have had no problems since. Bill
Never, ever, ever sell that car or change a thing about it. It is perfect and you are so lucky to have something that was such a part of your Dad. That car is the real deal. Don
Sell, no F'n way. I have been sit'n in the car since I was in diapers.I waited 35 yrs for It to come back to life. When I drive it's like he's riding shotgun! Thanks, Don and DJ The full story is here: http://rodders.netricksmedia.com/ on page 96
Damn straight that is a sweet little car, your dad certainly hit the nail on the head with that ride. Like you I have (back in our ownership) my dads rod he built when he was 15 way back in 65, pretty cool with plenty of history, never to be sold again its like a family hierloom. Finished a total resto on it bout 3 years ago. Best of luck with the head gasket problem.
nailhead, looked at your profile page hoping to see a couple of pic's of your dads old rod, why no pic's?
Just shot down to the garage and snapped a couple of shots of it sitting amongst the mess. Check my profile page in a few days an I'll upload some good ones. Shortened 1919 dodge cowl with a shortened 'T' bed and owner built rest, 312 Y Block, glide trans and a '57 chev rear end. It was originaly running an open drive banjo rear end with a transverse 'A spring and '39 juice brakes all round. Im working on putting it back to that way now.
You might very well consider new pistons to lower the CR. 11:1 is REALLY not needed for the Street...BTW, the original was about 7:1. Mine is a 291 DeSoto, and I use 87 in it...even with the Blower. You'll use up the $400 or so cost for new pistons in one Summer, payng for "gas" to run it @ 11:1...and it won't be comfortable putting up with it...
You are lucky to have your dads car, i have my dads 57 ford ragtop, my youngest girl has already made plans for it! Should i be worried?
Ummm, yeah, I'd probably make her buy her 1st car with her own money. See too many "given" car get wrecked. Inexpierience & friends in the car causes problems.
Nailhead, very cool T!! looks bad-ass but I could see why you'd want it back the way your dad had it. thanks for puttin up the pic's
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