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Projects I get to build an Anglia gasser (build thread)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by metalman, May 10, 2011.

  1. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,297

    metalman
    Member

    Ok, it's not an Anglia gasser you had pictured. Not sure of the year, 50 something.
    This one belongs to an old friend of mine. He took the car, engine/trans and narrowed Old rear to a local "pro" shop and had them start the project.
    Lot's of cash later (I was told $9000) this is what he has:eek:. Needless to say he pulled it out of that shop. Called me and asked if I would build it even though I'm semi retired these days and I think it could be fun so I took it on.
    The build criteria is street legal car but he want's it to be able to tech to run 10's in case he ever decides to put a "big" engine in. He does want to race it on occasion and he want's it to have the old school gasser look. After looking it over just about everything he's paid for is going in the dumpster. Here are the before pics, if there is intrest I'll post progress pics as it comes along.
    DSC_0039.JPG
    sits a bit too high even for a gasser
    DSC_0040.JPG
    body is 3" too far foward on the frame + set at 87", 3 " too short to be NHRA legal
    DSC_0043.JPG
    No bracing when the floor/ firwall was torched out, now neither door will close.
    DSC_0045.JPG
    motor mounts
    DSC_0046.JPG
    Engine is set so far back the carb is in the dash
    DSC_0048.JPG
    got scarier when we got the body off
    DSC_0049.JPG
    How about old rusty steel for a quality build!
     
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  2. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,297

    metalman
    Member

    DSC_0052.JPG
    Can't say I've ever seen ladder bars like this ( sept maybe on a monster truck!)
    DSC_0054.JPG
    a hole in the tube with a bolt thru saves on hiem ends! (all 3 points) Oh yeah, leaf springs with no floaters.
    DSC_0057.JPG
    I don't think NHRA likes it when your head is behind the roll cage.
    DSC_0058.JPG
    How about rusty pipe for a cage. 1 1/2 od, gotta throw it all away.
    DSC_0065.JPG

    DSC_0066.JPG

    DSC_0044.JPG
    Steering, geez. One bolt holding the box to the frame and a long bolt and spacer to get the drag link to clear the spring.
    OK, been kinda of a rant on the work my buddy paid for. All this gets tossed and start over. Been close to 30 years since I've built a drag car so I'm open to suggestions, comments as I progress. FWIW I did pick up a current NHRA rule book and been talking to one of our tracks tech inspectors.
     
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  3. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,765

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Well some of it looks strange, and some of it looks like maybe they weren't done when he took it. I suppose you can't really comment on the incomplete stuff, but the strange stuff is just hard to accept.
     
  4. GaryB
    Joined: Dec 19, 2008
    Posts: 3,529

    GaryB
    Member
    from Reno,nv

    no comment,keep us posted
     

  5. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    Will it stay center steer and be street driven?
     
  6. Chuckles Garage
    Joined: Jun 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,365

    Chuckles Garage
    Alliance Vendor

    Some people need to have their torches taken away. Yikes. Looking forward to see what you make of it.
     
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  7. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,297

    metalman
    Member

    1971BB427, Yeah, a lot of it wasn't finished (like the cage), my buddy didn't see the point of letting it go any farther and pulled it out of the shop it was at.

    117harv, It wasn't suppose to be center steer and it's not now, just sorta center. Not sure what the plan there was other then it was easy to mount the seat there(???)
     
  8. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,765

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    They're so narrow that center isn't far from left! ;) Anyone sitting on the pass. seat of my Austin has to keep their hands in their lap or I'll elbow them in the arm when I'm making a turn! Those old British cars are tiny!

    PS-It looks to be around 1959 vintage:
    [​IMG]
     
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  9. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 4,671

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    $9000!!!!! Looks like the "shop" did $9000 worth of damage/rework needed to get it straight.
    The cage suspension work is going to be a total blow out. I'd even be suspect of the frame welds and wonder if the frame that was built is square, etc.
    You're brave to take this on. Should be a neat ride when you're done.
     
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  10. volvobrynk likes this.
  11. AAFD
    Joined: Apr 13, 2010
    Posts: 585

    AAFD
    Member
    from US of A

    That's an Anglia "100E", they were made from '53-'59. Bitchin little cars. The guy who attempted to build that one must have had good life insurance or something.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Degenerate
    Joined: Aug 5, 2007
    Posts: 239

    Degenerate
    Member
    from Indiana

    Looks like it was being "designed" as it was being built. No plan, just start cutting and welding. If you call yourself a pro shop and have some work like this taken away, that's a good thing. Except for the body and drivetrain, looks like a complete start over is a better idea. I hate fixin' other people's mistakes.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2011
  13. 1927 Death Trap
    Joined: Jan 19, 2008
    Posts: 355

    1927 Death Trap
    Member
    from CT

    Wow! Looks like your going to have to remove the body, save whatever suspension parts you can and just start over. No point in trying to spit shine a turd. Good luck, I'm looking forward to updates.
     
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  14. 51 Hemi J
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 394

    51 Hemi J
    Member

    [​IMG]

    From the Post above - this is just PLAIN Bitchin!

    This car needs the horizontal shoulder/belt mount bar to be offset behind the main hoop just like Sam (Dragrcr50) did in his Henry J build:

    [​IMG]
     
  15. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,264

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You said you're open to suggestions. Use current tech for rear suspension. Most of it is only seen by interested parties (tech inspectors) and you can still dress things with paint and plating if you want a vintage vibe. The cage, well that has to be current as well since it sounds like it will be raced based on your posts. A current ladder bar/coil over is simple, effective, more in keeping with that car than any other type of approach. It also leaves room for the driver and decent floor work. The front is probably something you could get through easy enough with a dropped axle get up.

    The rest, the pics and previous work, even "good intentions" don't justify it. I'll stop there as I could go on...but why bother.
     
  16. I was going to say '59 also. I had a '59 Reilly once and the body was about the same basic shape.

    Its a funny thing we all think the same thing when we think Anglia gasser. but sometimes it isn't at all about what it looks like. Sometimes it is just about going fast in a straight line.

    Looks like a fun project. Hope you get it sorted out and when you are done it stands up and cuts a straight line.
     
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  17. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,297

    metalman
    Member

    Yeah, I wish I could off started from the begining, I think it would of been easier!
    Looks like at this point all I'm saving off the chassis is the rear axle, front axle assy and steering box. The basic perimiter frame is still up in the air till I get it stripped and on the frame table. If it happens to be square and level (I'm not going to assume it is!) then I might use it. Will go thru and reweld/ gusset it regardless, I Don't trust this guys welding at all.
    Highlander, I do plan on a modern ladderbar/ coilover set up in the rear. I want to be able to fine tune it to get it to launch hard and STRAIGHT. This short of a car is going to be a wild ride regardless, gotta make it go straight.
    AAFD, great pics, some good insperation! FWIW I've known this guy for 30+ years and he's always been a wild man, no fear to mash the pedal on anything!
     
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  18. You might check with the current NHRA (or whatever sanctioning body) rule book for wheelbase minimums, might need to stretch it a couple of inches. Would be a bummer to build it then get bounced from inspection
     
  19. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,297

    metalman
    Member

    Yeah, the wheelbase is at 87" right now and NHRA minimum is 90". Going to be tight but the rear wheel openings are going to be radiused and opened up to take a 30" tall tire so we'll do all the opening towards the back and move the rear axle back 3". I will probably leave the front wheels slightly foward in the opening (maybe an inch) so I end up with a 91" wb to have a little cushion. My biggest concern is moving the rear wheel opening back might make it look a little goofy but we don't want to go threw the work ($$$) to strech the body. I'll probably do a little photochopping to make sure it will look OK before I commit to moving the wheel opening that far back.
     
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  20. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,765

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I think you're on the right track moving the rear back and front slightly forward. Starting with the leading edge of your tires close to the present leading edge will probably nearly get you there and not look weird.
     
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  21. rat nasty
    Joined: Jul 22, 2007
    Posts: 702

    rat nasty
    Member

    try movin the rear back an inch and the front up 3" ?or split the differences?my 2 cents for ya...i also like what he said ^^^ but dont be afraid of movin the front forward it has alot of advantages and dont look bad as long as you dont go to far?i like it!I think the anglias are too kool!
     
  22. dragrcr50
    Joined: Jul 25, 2005
    Posts: 3,865

    dragrcr50
    Member

    hey guys, thanks for using my build thread here. good luck with this little flower. I think if the orig wheelbase is 87 it can remain 87 just cant change it to 87 inches>>>> my advice is to lengthen the front about 3 inches or so and fudje the back an inch or so when you cut the wheel wells out for the big tires... that is what we usually do anyway to fudge some wheelbase on the short crs. as for the prev work, i have a salt flat 29 roadster in now the same way, had to part out about 70 percent of it and start over. just square the frame, get a plan and stay with it.. need advice just yell.... and again good luck..
     
  23. OahuEli
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,243

    OahuEli
    Member
    from Hawaii

    Geez, that "pro" shop work reminds me of Bruce Lee's sister, Ug Lee. I'll be watching the build thread for sure. Yes, it definitely sucks to have to go back and correct someone else's fugly mistakes.
     
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  24. jangleguy
    Joined: Dec 26, 2004
    Posts: 2,668

    jangleguy
    Member

    Thanks 51 Henry J. That's mine...

    Good luck on yours, man!
    Scotty
     
  25. Hotrodtoms
    Joined: Aug 11, 2007
    Posts: 35

    Hotrodtoms
    Member

    Looking forward to seeing this build!

    Im on the home straight with mine now...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  26. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,297

    metalman
    Member

    The way I understand the rule book (NHRA) is it can remain 87" only if the original powertrain is in it, don't think that would make for a very exciting gasser! The way the prvious builder set it up he moved both axles up 3" and it places the front tire right under the front lip of the opening, I can't go 3" foward with the front and still lower the front as far as I want. We want it nose up for sure but not stupid high. Looking at Jangleguy's car (lcool car by the way) his rear wheel opening is oviously moved back and it looks good so I think I'll be good with 1" foward on the front, 3" back on the rear. I agree, best to fudge as much WB as I can get on this short of a car.
     
  27. Jangleguy's Anglia [my brother] was only eclipsed by his Morris...got me inspired enough to score a little Gasser project of my own..a '57 Lloyd.
     

    Attached Files:

  28. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,188

    55chieftain
    Member

    Yikes , good luck sorting that out. Agree it sits too high, maybe just use what you have and mount the axle above the springs instead?
     
  29. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,297

    metalman
    Member

    Yesterday I got it striped down to a basic frame. Surprisingly it's preety square and level except it varies an inch in width front to rear, not a taper, narrowist at the front of the kickup. Guess the guy let it pull while welding up the kickup. With the clean up time involved + the questionable welding I we decided to scrap it and start over. This frame is 1/8 wall, normally I use 3/16 wall if it's 2x3 on a street car but this one will have a full cage. Trying to decide weather to add the weight of 3/16.
    DSC_0069.JPG
    Remains of the old cage. Turned out to be 1 1/2 x .125 wall. I found out the guy origanally building the car used the same material in his racecar and the track wouldn't pass it back in March so he replaced his cage. Funny he never did anything to change the tube size in this car after that.
    DSC_0070.JPG
    Bye-bye funky ( and HEAVY) 5' ladder bars. Maybe I'll build a crane or something with them!;)
    DSC_0071.JPG
    Does anyone know where the VIN is on one of these Anglia? Also trying to figure out what year it is.
     
  30. pimtina
    Joined: Jan 5, 2011
    Posts: 166

    pimtina
    Member

    The VIN tag should be on the right inner fender and it should be stamped on the factory frame (unibody) rail. But it appears those bits have gone missing on the one you're buildin'. Maybe a Brit will chime in with other spots it could be found. Good luck with the build. I love these little Anglias and used to own 2 of 'em!
     
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