Dumb question 1. "A" axle on "T" bucket?

I've been absorbing info left and right and just order material for my chassis (2"x3"x3/16" which btw is currently $105.23 @ 24').

There is a complete "A" front end near me for $75 on CL. As with CL the pics are shit so I cannot really get a good look, but I'd like to if the "A" axle will work for the front end. I'd like the chassis to sit as low as I can get it and I understand I can raise the perch, but is this correct approach? Would I better off buying an axle that has been dropped already?

Thanks.

 

It can work just fine.

 

Dropped axles on open wheeled rides are often used for their looks as much as lowering. If you don't run the frame over the axle..suicide style.. there is no need for one, again unless it is for looks. Some sweep the frame up and over, or Z it. This can be done with or without a dropped axle. The A axle is a good one as is the wishbone. The stock brakes and spindles don't get much use. The spindles can be used with the later juice brakes with abit of modification.

 

I would not use the model A front end.. It's very wide( over 50" at the king pins) and the spindles only work for juice brakes after modifications..The wishbones will work but are not the strongest, especially if your running a V8.. just my 2 cents........

 

pipez, excellent book out there on building a hot rod chassis. Might be the best $24 you have ever spent. Everything starts with a vision, what look are you going for? What kind of " stance " do you want?, are you going period correct?, then you need to get out the old pictures that have the period look your going for.

 

Theres a VERY reputable guy in Oklahoma that sells axles already dropped, and dropped correctly. He sells on e-bay, and I believe he is here too, if thats the way you want to go, someone here can give you the info. Sorry, I dont have it handy and I'm up to my beerzalls in work. TR.

 

I'd like a period look, to certain degree, but a REALLY prefer the I beam axle over the tube, and of course the low asking price. The 50" at the Kingpin is kind of a bummer though. I know it's possible (as is anything) but can the spindles be used for, say, Mustang II discs?

Also is the Kingpin distance on a typical T axle 48" or so?

 

Dropped axles look like shit on buckets.

 

Been done a thousand times, is the traditional way, and looks great.

 

While the "A" front end may be usable, I think it has more drawbacks than advantages.
Juice brakes can be adapted to the "A" spindles easily; but if you feel you want disc brakes you may have to make your caliper brackets, the kits that are commonly available are made for '37-'48 spindles. The bearing
adapters will work with spacers; but the caliper brackets will not bolt on.
The biggest problem with the "A" spindles are the steering arms, they mount the tie rod high and typically you want it low.
The "A" wishbones are short and will look it, also the short length combined with a side steer box mounted in the typical "T" configuration will more than likely result in bumpsteer.
If you set the spring behind on an "A" with perch bolts through the wishbone, the "A" spring will be too long. You will need narrow spring or
at least a narrow main leaf.
For the above reasons and others, it seems to me the "A" front end is not the best place to start.
Overall, there are better ways to do this. I have attached a copy of an old magazine article that uses a '40 front end as a basis. I have put together several fronts like in the article and they have all worked well and in my opinion look like a front end should.

 

Super thanks for the info.