The oil for your rockers comes up through one hole in the stands, shimmimg probably isn't the best choice, but you definatly don't want to block the oil flow.
Vacuum gauge is a good test for information. I'd want at least 18 but should be 21 like they said. Good suggestion. General rule is 70 plus psi compression on test the engine should idle. Maybe the lifters are pumping open the valves once the run oil pressure loads up the lifters. That is hard to test. Did you say you had it running with the compression gauge plugged in. I never did that but I'd suspect you would get a false reading because the engine was turning too fast. The Intake, carb base, open vac ports on carb, causing leaking Vacuum will make an engine idle really rough the same as a open valve. Make sure all Vacuum ports are plugged and intake gaskets are correctly installed. What about the PCV port in the back of the intake? I have sprayed carb cleaner on and around a intake and carb to find Vacuum leaks before . If you hit a leak the carb cleaner will make the engine idle better when the engine sucks in the cleaner and burns it like fuel. If you have a vacuum leak or are just too lean, by squirting some carb cleaner in the top of the carb it will speed up the engine and make it idle/run smoother/better. BUT BE WARNED.... I don't know how good your parts are or your level of knowledge so don't do this unless you know you can safely. If you get a spark from a bad spark plug wire, backfire, or points arc in the distributor while spraying the carb cleaner you could ignite a flash fire and get hurt or burn down your project and shop..... Be sure you know what your doing before you do this. It can be dangerous!!! Be sure and Have a proper type fire extinguisher close by. .
What i meant to say is , I did the compression test 2 times ( not when the engine was running). With all the turning over of the engine on the first comp test, I bet the oil pumped up and may have opened the valves. That might be the cause for the 5 psi difference on the 2nd test. I checked the vacuum lines and they looked good. As for trying to let it run and spray the lines or carb , the engine won't idle long enough to allow me to try it. I am going to give the vacuum pressure test a try and see what happens. There is a PVC valve in the back of the valley pan. The distributor in it is a Chevy HEI with a vacuum advance so no points. Lets see what happens. Thanks for everyones help so far.
This might be a stupid question, but here goes. I found a '55 Chrysler 300 today in a salvage yard with a complete engine (aside from the carb). Research indicated that it's likely a 331. Does this make it a Hemi and how much is it worth - it would cost me $300.00 plus tax to buy it. The valve covers have the words "powerflite" embossed on them. How expensive are these to rebuild? Would it be worth grabbing? Thanks!
Hmm... I couldn't find any trim or badges that said what the car was, but it definitely looked like a 1955 Chrysler 300, so that was my guess. What other engines were installed in these cars?
Powerflite is Chrysler's 2 speed automatic transmission Powerdome is Desoto engine I believe Firepower is what Chrysler has on the hemi valve covers.
Probably Fireflite or Firedome. DeSoto Hemi. Probably was a 2 bl on it. Look @ the use code stamped on a flat in front of the valley cover & post it.
It definitely had a 2bbl intake on it. The car had the split front grilles like a '55 Chrysler and the weird 3 piece chrome tailight trim (which I bought.) I'm not near the car, so I can't post any pics. Is this motor worth grabbing for $300.00 plus the time and energy to take it out?
Do you have a use for the engine? Can you spare $330 to have it sitting in your shop as a decoration? There are differences between the 55 291 (S21/S22) and the 56 330 (S23/S24) and some folks prefer one over the other. Keep in mind that DeSotos, while excellent engines, are a bit harder to get certain parts for... If a stock looking engine works for you then don't worry about the internals. .
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