Shocks for bagged front end.

I'm working on bagging the stock front end on my 51 Chevy. I have read all the posts which detail how to cut and reinforce the spring hat.

Now I need to know how to attach shocks. I could use some pictures of how the shocks are attached both top and bottom and what shocks you used.

thanks for the help.

Bill

 

If you are using actual bags (pretty rare these days) Get the shock mounts off of an 80 Suburban. Otherwise if you are using one of the newer units the shock is built into the unit.

 

I am using Slam Specialties bags from Gambino Kustoms so I think I do need to run shocks. Is there any years/models of shock mounts that will work? I don't know how many 80's Suburbans there are in my local U-Pull-It.

 

there are several shock relocation kit available, one that comes to mind is the s10 unit from suicidedoors.com now quality air

Give jason a call im sure he can help you out in your search

 

Check Rustypipes post. I think he shows them. Todd

 

Try running it without them and see how you like it. I bagged my 54 Chevy stock front and didnt run shocks on the front and it actually rode pretty nice. The front ends are pretty heavy on those cars. Just my $.02

 

A THOUSAND TIMES NO! I'm not kidding.

You MUST run shock absorbers. Anybody who tells you otherwise is trying to kill you with ignorance. Some people have gotten away with it, but they are VERY lucky. Lucky is not a survival strategy.

A shock absorber is designed to dissipate excess kinetic energy in the suspension system by converting it to heat, via friction.

Without a functional shock absorber, there is nothing to control this excess energy (movement). You can experience severe uncontrolled oscillation of the suspension, leading to instantaneous total loss of control of the the vehicle.

You place yourself, your passengers, other motorists and bystanders at risk of severe injury or death by running without shock absorbers. Don't do it.

If you do, and you do cause an accident, and survive, you will be paying for all of the damage; because, when the insurance company finds out that the accident was caused by the absence of shock absorbers, they will cover nothing.

I have a Master's Degree in Mechanical Engineering from one of them fancy Ivy League schools (with three initials). I have been building hot rods and custom cars all of my life. I know of what I speak, and I can even computer model it for you.

 

Im in the middle of doing my Pontiac,this thread has given me some ideas.He shows how to do the shock brackets,wich you definitely want !
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152076

 

I'm following that thread for my build but I was wondering if anyone else has other pics of brakets they used especially if i could find something at my local U-Pull_It.

 

you cant use a basic eyelet shock and make some simple brackets with a hole and weld them to the and to the lower control arm?

 

By all means please put shocks on the car, the harmonic's of the road require them, even with bags you can get a nasty hop that you cant stop, and when you apply the brakes it will just make the problem worse, I installed a set of Original size mustang shocks colapsed there about 11 inches long, I made new mounts top and bottem and there a POST shock on top and barrel on bottem.
There are even mustang II shock relocation kits cheap that include the shocks if you cant fab the mounts yourself. ebay, Speedwaymotors, and susicidedoors make them.

 

Does anyone have any pics of their shock mounts? and also what shocks you used?

 

He is right you know!

 

I'm trying to, I just need some pictures and info on shocks.

 

look at ridetech.com for the shock absorber relocation kit for front of a Chevy S10

 

ask anyone who bags everthing they get there hands on. like jason owner of Suicidedoors.com great guy call him up

you do not need front shocks with bags in the front it will ride great. you wont even notice you dont have them

 

This is both wrong and dangerous. Shocks are not optional equipment. Leave the advice to the professionals, please. You will get someone killed.

 

I made this w/ half square plate (cut diagonally, think a triangle) and then gusseted it on top.
I think anybody w/ basic skills can do this, provided you can weld decently.
I used the shocks i had on already, but the car was already lowered when i bagged it.
My advice is USE'EM. I know a heavy car can kinda get away w/ it, but for the time an effort it takes its worth doin it a million times.

Edit: just for shits and giggles i tried runnin the car w/out shocks in the front and it was waaaay bouncy, and totally dropped to one side when cornering, slow or fast, just like a boat, something you dont want on a car, then again, my car is light, kinda like a Falcon.

 

I'm getting ready to fab the brackets for the shocks on the front of my bagged 51. At ride height, is there a preferred angle for the shock? Is it better to mount the lower end of the shock closer to the end of the lower control arm so the shock angles toward the frame? Is it OK to have it fairly straight? What's the best?

 

like Gimpy said NO! Do it correctly rather than being a hack.

 

I am going to run shocks but I need some advice on what I posted in my last post.

 

About. 15 degrees, tops closer to frame. It will help with body roll.

 

Not quite. On IFS the arm movements are the same in bump and roll, so angling the shock won't make any difference. Angling the shock does give a bit of progressive geometry, however, meaning that you approach the optimal effective angle with the first bit of suspension travel. That means slightly softer damping around ride height, firming up a bit as the suspension moves - in all desirable.

Angling the shocks on a solid axle does give different damping in bump and roll, and what gimpyshotrods says holds as long as the roll centre is fairly low.

 

Can't help you with exactly where to put them

But look here and find a shock that will work for you on your car with your mounting scheme.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259639


I did, and cross referenced the shock p/n into something I can find easlily and really cheap ($12 or so each).

 

I did use that thread to find a shock that I think will work. I'm fitting in the monroe 5752 which has a compressed length of 8.6" and an extended length of 12.7". Once I get all of the suspension back together I'm hoping this shock will cover the total travel of the suspension.

I have made a shock bracket out of some 2x2 box stock that will mount to the frame and extend out and the top of the shock will attach to that.

In the pic below, I took an illustration from the shop manual and have added a drawing of the shape of the shock bracket and where it attaches to the frame in back of the control arms. Which position "a" or "b" would be the better to attach the bottom of the shock to the lower control arm?




Thanks for the help. Bill

 

I'd error more to A


Sent from my iPod touch using TJJ

 

I just did my 54 with some Monroe shocks that compressed about the same with the slam bags as well. I used ride tech upper mounts that I cutt way down. I drilled the a arm as close to the uprights as I could. You have to get them just right so they will still miss the tie rods. But u can do it. Took me 3 hours tryn to figure out shock size and the exact location of it all. I built a steel collapsed shock. It made the locating much easier. Be sure to make that the suspension is fully collapsed when u set the location mounts. U don't want to have the car using the collapsed shock as a bump stop. Hope this helps.

 

do you have any pictures of your set up? Also which shock did you use?

thanks, Bill