yeah so after a few nights of scraping off undercoating i found out my awesome AZ. car has got a little swiss cheese in the floor. after only being in IL for a little while our state all ready started to do its magic on metal. so i have to repair one of the rear foot wells and both toeboards. i wont go into detail on all of em but heres the rear. thought this would be a good time to weld the top of the subframe connectors [/urlHosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Added some bead rolls to match the factory Hosted on Fotki all welded Hosted on Fotki
jon, everytime i say im goin to make it to an event it doesnt happen so right now im really just focused on getting her on the road but do you guys only have events in michigan and is it for the great lakes gassers members only? michigan is not a big drive for me anyway just curious. i have a few shows and races id like to make but being real anything before the 4th probably wont happen unless i find more time Derek
Wow, excellent work. I kept looking through page after page of your built waiting to see what you were going to do next. My wife has always wanted a Falcon, I don't think she will go for the gasser look though. haha Cesar
had to share a correction i made to the rear, actually theres been a few but this is one i have pics of. i put the rear panhard bar from the chassis to the top of the center housing. BAD idea most of you will know but in case you didnt you want the pan hard bar as long and level as you can. i could of put it below the rear end for the best out come but its not a roundy round. so i have it as far out as i can go before clearance issues. another way to solve this could have been a wishbone to locate the rearend but im happy.
I put that same gas pedal from speedway in my model A gasser and had to drill and sleeve it to make it work.
NICE chuckles!!! yeah i almost was at the point of having to chop the fire wall up. did not think the fan was gonna fit. and thanx to everyone whos helped or commented, it keeps me on track
I am doing the same thing in my 64, I found the 94 and 95 work best. There not as big as the 87 to 93.
When you changed over to a front sump did you have to get a new oil pump or just make a new pickup tube.
ditch the clamshell valve covers,the aluminum scoops would look better on a model a than a falcon.the velocity stacks are spot on perfect. nice fabrication.nice car
Progress looks great, your car looks great, but I have a question...how necessary is it to totally tie the front and rear subframe together? Unless you were running 1000 hp big block, what is the point of it? In no way is this bad mouthing what you are doing, It's just on my 63 Falcon, I am thinking a nice 400hp small block, and 4 speed. Am I going to have to do all of this work just to drag race it? It just seems like overkill....but of course I could be totally wrong here...I mean, would the car twist and flex? School me here......
All unibody cars in a drag racing aplication benifit from tieing the front and rear together. You would be amazed at the amount of flex thats generated. Its all about getting the power to the ground. Imagine trying to bust a tight bolt loose with a 3/8 rachet but using a 1/4" extention. All you torque is lost through the flex.Now imagine it with the proper 3/8" extention. Thats also the benifit of a roll cage/bar. Not only about the safety,but it ties all the corners of the car together. BTW. FANTASTIC JOB on the Falcon. Brandon
Holy shit! I found a pic of this car on google last week! The grill blew me away! Now I find the build thread! Awesome! Is there details on the grill? Super work man!!!!!
leadsled, novas4life pretty much hit it right on. is mine overkill for the drivetrain i have....yeah. so i just built the chassis to take whatever i throw at it be it an engine swap or more power. thinking this route i should have put the nine inch in it but hey im trying my best with out having to go to the wallet. not much in there anyways if you go through the thread pics the roll bar main hoop slams into the bar underneath the floor that ties the ladder bars to the chassis. my sub frame connectors connect the front to this tube which also has some ties to the rear of the rockers/torque box. so following what novas4life said its all tied in. then i added another tube for extra strength running parallel next to it. it also provided a better driveshaft hoop mount and a little more aesthetics. Your rockers, cowl, and torque boxes are about the strongest places on a unibody. any way to tie them in together is always good. Breeder ill get you some more pics of the grill. its 2 pieces welded in the center with bodylines on top and bottom to match the headlight bezels and a slight crown where all the flares are. wait till you see it polished judd that is the driveshaft and it is wrong. miss measured and haven't had it fixed yet. i knew that would be called out. thats ok im glad theres sharp eyes on the hamb.
BrickTopp,your definately building the car right. No such thing as "overKill". Build the car ONCE.So you dont have to go back over and over again making changes as the HP increases or you grow out of your speed certification. I have rebuilt my OT '67 Chevy II 3 times because I kept getting bigger motors through out the years. So with the A/ FX '62 Nova I'm building now,I plan on only building the car one time. Brandon
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