I have no interior power (radio, cig lighter, dome light) Need some direction

I really just need some direction on where to start looking. Nothing in the interior works, radio, cig lighter, dome light, instrument lights, clock. Heres the diagram. I dont see a common point for anything but the instrument lights.

 

Always start with your fuses and grounds

 

fuse

 

Same advice here. Check all fuses, and remember that bad grounds cause crazy shit.

 

I would check the fuse at the bottom right of the diagram. If it's a glass fuse and it's not blown spin it in it's connector. Sometimes the fuses connector gets a little dirty and looses contact.

 

check the connections, and fuse on the light switch. the dome light and instrument light get power there

 

Thanks for the quick reply guys. I will go check those out and see if I have any luck.

 

Yeah, and on those glass fuses, they can blow or corrode inside the end caps, leaving you with a visually good, yet dead fuse. Grab a test light.

 

only common point I see in a quick review is on the ignition switch. If the car has the original (aged) harness, wiring at the terminal ends can fail and visually look ok

 

I'd start with the headlight switch. Looks like that is used a central feed location for a lot more things than at first glance.
Best advice with wiring? Assume NOTHING! Check even the most redundant things.
I had trouble getting turn signals to work on a retired drag car. Did my rewiring that they had gutted. One wire at a time, fed and checked every end of each wire but STILL no turn signals. My ole side kick reached under the dash of his running, driving 62 Impala and pulled his flasher out and handed it to me. I protested "It's a brand new one in it!" He persisted so we plugged it in - blankity blank blinkers worked! Replaced mine with two other NEW ones from my parts cabinet.... nothing! I had purchased a box of duds! Not one worked! Lesson learned - assume nothing!

 

Always start at the source and work your way in. Use a test light not just visuals on fuses. Those ignition switches are notoriace for bad and burnt connections. Good Luck

 

Use meter if you've got one - it'll help identify low & no voltages. Useful also to check continuity.

 

digital multimeter... that's all I got to say.

 

I have a digital multimeter but I didnt know where to take readings from to start. Lots of good info. Thanks guys. The fuse for the cig lighter is bad so I have to grab one for it. Is it set up so that 1 thing will affect the rest?

 

There ya go. always check fuses, then grounds.

 

Instrument panel lights are hooked to the taillights so you know when power to the taillights is out. So check your taillight fuse also.


Mutt

 

Taillights work except one.The wire is broke at the bulb. Would that keep the instrument lights from working? I replaced the fuse at the light switch and the dome light works now but still no instrument lights, radio, or clock. There are some wires hangin and some electrical tape so I think someone else was in there at some point. Cleaned up grounds and the wiring actually looks pretty good.

 

Also--- F**K WIRING!!

 

I had basically the same problem on a Porsche 356, turned out to be the ignition switch. You might try there.

 

A test light comes in real handy.

 

"Would that keep the instrument lights from working?"


It shouldn't - the fuse is the key there. But also, how long has it been that the lights were working? A surge can blow old lights in a circuit like a dash quickly.

It's really not that difficult if you take your time and methodically work the circuits, marking down the ones you check as you go. When it gets to you, take a few minutes break and hit it again. Someone else cutting the wires or messing with them does make it more difficult, but as long as you have a color schematic as you do, you'll get it right if you take your time.


Mutt

 

Thanks again for all the info guys. Headed back down to fight it!

 

The instrument lights most likely are not working because of the headlamp switch. By the diagram I would test the blue wire with red tracer shown at the front of the switch. If there is power coming out of the switch on it you should have dash lights unless there is a break in the wire between the switch and dash. If there is no power on the blue/red wire you can tap into the black and yellow wire with the blue/red wire to make your dash lights work. If you tap in there though the dash lights will stay at a fixed brightness and will not dim. The clock light looks to be fed by the same wire. To fix it right you will need to repair or replace the headlamp switch. The clock power to run it looks to come from its own fuse, check that. I was not able to locate the radio on the diagram so for that I would start at the radio to check for power there. If no power right at the radio, follow the wire loom back to any junctions and retest untill you reach a power supply. I would suspect that the clock fuse would also supply the radio with power. Good luck and wiring isn't that bad just hang in there.

 

Check switch, possibly defective, First turn switch knob and check if rheostat turned off and use meter to check power at switch, power in and out on different contacts. Blue red wire on light switch feeds most gauge and interior lights. A place to start good luck

 

Left the car factory in 1995. We were still using TEST lights. Don't use on a yellow wire if car is eqpt with air bag..........Jus saying....

 

Remember all the dash lights have small bulbs and they can be blown. HRP

 

Looked at your circuit again and you might have more than one problem!!! Dome light not in Gauge lights circuit. Gets power from ignition switch and fuse on back off light switch as far as I can tell with out being able to test with meter. Also dome light has 2 door switch's and a dash switch and think cigar lighter with dome light circuit.Hope some of this helps give's you a direction. Can't find radio on circuit diagram but should come off of ignition switch also. Just some places to check. Good luck and have patient's with testing.

 

Some glass fuses yes are cheap shit. Get the fuse, and twist both ends with your fingers at once. A fuse that seems good to the eye could have a dud connection at the end caps inside the fuse. Look for fuses where you can see the fuse wire and solder on the outer sides of the end caps ( this is a good quality fuse 3AG). A test light will not show you this.

 

Check the yellow wire that comes from the voltage regulator into the cabin to the light switch. That is the feed for all the circuits under the dash. With everything dead I'd look there first.