when i was doing some various work this winter i had to remove the compressor and condensor for the car for a week. i sealed all lines and made sure that no oil was poured out of the compressor by keeping it up right and when the unit was put back together i pulled a vacuum on it and stored it for the winter. Now i am wanting to refill the system but i wonder if i should put any oil in the system? i do remember a few drops of oil coming out of the lines but the dot was no larger than a dime. What is reccomended?
I noticed there are several differnt types and viscosities (PAG vs. Ester) Am i supposed to use a certain type
Not enough oil causes wear or failure, too much oil dramatically reduces cooling performance. If you didn't loose any oil when the work was done you should be ok. If you let ther refrigerant escape quickly you might have lost some oil. If you aren't sure, the best option is to remove all the oil now in the system, put in the appropriate type and amount, then recharge.
make sure you have proper amount so go ahead and drain it and start over fresh. not enough oil wears system out, too much will let oil migrate and insulate the system so it won't cool properly. i have seen the too much oil result before when i ran 717 (ammonia) having to drain evaporators on regular basis and it sucked!
If you discharged it and then spilled a dime's worth of oil, I'd just shoot in about twice as much as you spilled, which is to say maybe a teaspoon full's worth.
Why not break down and have a professional evacuate the system and service it correctly. Why guess and ruin an expensive system?
the reason i learned to do auto AC myself is because i got tired of being RIPPED OFF by moron AC mechanics.... always do it yourself if possible.
I got tired of being ripped off too, so I bought a good vacuum pump and set of gauges. I'd put a few ounces of ester oil in if it's 134 you've always ran. R12 takes mineral oil, same as a vacuum pump. As long as it holds a vacuum you're good to go. Makes it easier to find leaks. Look for the oil around the fittings. The dryer/filter is the guy you need to be on top of. If it's open to atmosphere for any length of time the desiccant will absorb moisture. It only holds a tablespoon of moisture.
Most newer systems, especialy with R134a, require charging the system by weight. Check with V/A and make sure of their requirements. If I remember correctly, it's 1.8 pounds... You are supposed to do an evacuation to remove the moisture in the air. You are also supposed to replace the reciever dryer any time the system is opened for the same reason.
okay next issue. the unit takes 1.8 pounds. 2 full cans and then some. well i lost track of time and ended up putting 3 full cans in. my pressure reading on the low side after the compressor cuts off is 30psi. when the system is off it levels out to 80 psi. Should i bleed some off to lower the pressure? what would be the best PSI to shoot for. Whay cant they make it work out to be a full can? why does it have to be a half can.?
The system will not get cold, then it will run warm at times. Check the bottom of the dryer. In some cases there will be frost on the bottom if there is too much moisture. Suck the system down for around 30 minutes. Recheck that it holds vacuum for 15 minutes. Add 2 oz of oil and 2.5 CANS of freon. Dye is optional. DYE does not hurt the system.
The pag oil is extremly hydroscopic,and moisture in a system with pag causes acids to corrode the system.Ester oil will work with r12 or 134,but dont mix oils.
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