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Hemi hemi hemi, need help !!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by casteel, Apr 11, 2011.

  1. casteel
    Joined: Jun 6, 2010
    Posts: 40

    casteel
    Member
    from Ardmore

    OK I couldn't stand it any longer, had to take off work today to break down the 354. Piston were std, rod and main journals were std, One of the rod journals were kinda rough, but nothing that can't be fixed. Cam was gear driven, so I need info on best way to convert to chain drive. Going to take all the stuff to my machine shop next week and start spending $$$ on parts. Wow!! this is not going to be cheap!
     
  2. moparmonkey
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 565

    moparmonkey
    Member
    from NorCal

    The best part of the mysterious "W" hasn't even been mentioned yet...

    A lot of the truck blocks were finished at the 331 bore. However,truck blocks finished at the 331 bore, with the "W" casting, are rumored to actually be 354 blocks, just with thicker walls. This comes from the "W" blocks supposedly being '55 354 car blocks that somehow were slated for truck use (left overs?).

    But, apparently not all the "W" blocks were finished at 331 or 354. I've managed to pick up a couple of '55 301 poly blocks of all things that also have the "W" casting. One of these days I'll have to haul them down and get them sonic checked, would be pretty interesting if they can go all the way out to a 354.

    Now, of course, if your engine is already at the 354 bore, then the "W" casting is just a mysterious marking. And the whole thing may just be rumor anyway.

    Good luck with the build, I'd love to see your progress (as I have a vested intrest given the number of old hemi's I now have). But you're right, it won't be cheap. Still, nothing looks or sounds like an old hemi! :cool:
     
  3. casteel
    Joined: Jun 6, 2010
    Posts: 40

    casteel
    Member
    from Ardmore

    Moparmonkey,
    I never measured the bore size. I was just going by the markings on the pistons. I will measure the bore size and post.
     
  4. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,725

    George
    Member

    The W seems to be on a lot of truck blocks. The underbored 354s have the 354 casting number but the use code will be for a 331 truck. Guy up in Tn had one on EBay some months ago. Wish I had the money & space to have added it to my stash.
     
  5. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,198

    73RR
    Member


    ...and I thought that I was the only guy with this 'problem'...:D

    .
     
  6. casteel
    Joined: Jun 6, 2010
    Posts: 40

    casteel
    Member
    from Ardmore

    Here is the 31 that will be getting the Hemi transplant. 31 ford 001.jpg

    31 ford 002.jpg

    31 ford 003.jpg

    31 ford 004.jpg

    31 ford 005.jpg

    31 ford 006.jpg

    31 ford 007.jpg
     
  7. casteel:

    Be advised that not all intakes will work with all of the head castings that Chrysler used.

    Many heavy-duty applications (i.e. truck and marine) used heads with engine coolant in the heat crossover instead of the typical engine exhaust. Those particular heads have a taller crossover port that many intake manifolds do not cover completely. Additionally, many of those heads used exhaust valves that have the larger sodium-filled stems.

    Your truck engine block will have the timing cover bolt pattern common with the 51-54 engines (cast iron 2-piece cover instead of the stamped tin timing cover like the 55-58 engines). It is super heavy and places the water pump very high to get the fan in the right position for the truck application. There is an aftermarket aluminum timing cover available for these engines.

    Great score, nonetheless!
     
  8. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    So true! I learned this about my 331. They probably did this for extended service life, I suppose. Could get plenty of rebuilds out of an under-bored block.

    OH! And some of the POLY blocks ALSO had the "W"! :D GAH!
     
  9. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Good point! There are a couple options for handling this if a manifold is had that is desired to be used but doesn't cover. The port can be partially welded and re-shaped (yes, an experienced cast iron welder would be good here!) or the simply adding material to the manifold. I've seen both done, but the more common seems to be adding material to the manifold if it's an aluminum manifold, or something. That pesky port certainly causes some inconvenience for after market manifolds.

    Good point, 30dodgeboy!
     
  10. jimi'shemi291
    Joined: Jan 21, 2009
    Posts: 9,499

    jimi'shemi291
    Member

    Yo, Scooter, glad you brought that up. When the intake angles are right and seat well BUT ports don't align, WHAT is the most efficient way to judge this? Or, does a guy have to get a pro to "blueprint" it?

    Assuming bolt holes align, could ya lay, say, some clear acetate on the head, trace it with a Sharpies, then flop it and do the same on the intake?

    Just theoretical on my part, but it's the only way that came to mind. It would at LEAST tell ya if the ports were close OR way off and needing help, wouldn't it?
     
  11. junkmonger
    Joined: Feb 9, 2004
    Posts: 653

    junkmonger
    Member

    Check out the Tex Smith book: The Complete Chrysler Hemi Engine Manual by Ron Ceridono. It has a lot of good info, and even includes a section on transmission options, and interviews with Garlits and other hemi guys.
     
  12. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,725

    George
    Member

    All the Chr intakes will bolt on any Chr heads, just a matter of port size is small on the 51-3 2 bl wet intakes
     
  13. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,296

    31chevymike
    Member

    Now that's an understatement... Do you remember me and my bro where we saw you at a West Palm Beach car show at an elderly home? I know your '32 anywhere! Keep in touch - Mike
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,432

    Squablow
    Member

    Not to hijack the thread, but will a stock 51-54 331 car timing cover/water pump housing bolt up to the truck engine to replace the super tall truck one or is the aftermarket aluminum one necessary to do that?

    Also related to the 354 Power Giant motor, I've been told that I need the '54 New Yorker 4 barrel "wet" intake if I want to run a single 4 barrel on this engine and still have a regular water neck/thermostat housing on the intake, is that correct?
     
  15. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,198

    73RR
    Member


    Yes.
    Yes.

    .
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2011
  16. jimi'shemi291
    Joined: Jan 21, 2009
    Posts: 9,499

    jimi'shemi291
    Member

    THANKS, George! I love these Hemi threads, 'cause I always learn something helpful.
     
  17. ago
    Joined: Oct 12, 2005
    Posts: 2,199

    ago
    Member
    from pgh. pa.

    Any body interested I still have a very nice clean 301 Chyrsler block. I just haven't listed it for sale lately. PM me.



    Ago
     
  18. casteel
    Joined: Jun 6, 2010
    Posts: 40

    casteel
    Member
    from Ardmore

    I will start posting pics on my build. Just sold my 59 Biscayne, so now I have money and its burning a hole in my pocket!!
     
  19. The center heat crossover ports are different enough between the two versions that you can distinguish between the two just by looking at them. A tape measure will really make it obvious because they are that different.

    Another easy way to see the difference is to look at the intake gasket for a car engine and then look at the gasket for a truck engine. The difference in the center port height/width is pretty obvious once you look at them.
     
  20. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Okay, just so you guys are clear on what all this talk is about this port, here's some examples...

    Here are the Industrial/Truck heads. Center steam port is tall and narrow and have no water provisions at the front/rear of the heads. Sodium filled exhaust valves.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Next example are 354 passenger car heads. (couldn't find a picture of the heads not on the motor) Shorter and wider port and standard valve stem sizes. Water provisions at the front/rear of the heads. These are also similar to the later 331 and "555" heads.

    [​IMG]

    Now to take it one step further (again, sorry for the crappy picture of this head), here is an EARLY 331 (51-53) passenger car head. All the ports were just a little different than the later 331 and 354 ports, valves were a little smaller, the heads have NO water provisions at the front/rear of the heads.

    [​IMG]
     
  21. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I agree with this also. This is a GREAT book and something you REALLY should have if you're going to play with early Hemis. 73RR even has a little blurb in that book! :D The book is pretty accurate and is full of great examples of identification, build examples, after-market availability, and some great info on choosing parts for your application. The book primarily covers Passenger car type motors, but the Truck, Industrial, and Marine applications are all off-shoots of standard passenger car engines. It would still be very useful to own!

    http://www.google.com/products/cata...=X&ei=-EWsTYTvBOTPiALP4KXvDA&ved=0CGMQ8wIwAA#

    [​IMG]
     
  22. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,725

    George
    Member

    I have truck heads with the square crossover.
     
  23. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,382

    scootermcrad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Whoa! Cool! Do they have the sodium valves too??

    Would be cool to see an entire list of heads by number showing what each head style was used for/on.
     
  24. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,725

    George
    Member

    Yup, sodium with rotators, solid ends
     

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