April Bang-er thread 2011 OOOGGGAAA BOOOGAAA

My stepfather once bought one of those Smith compressors when we were operating a small "hard rock" mine in the Mohave in the early 50's only to find out it was illegal to use a smith conversion to supply air under ground. It was claimed that raw fuel fumes could some how be pumped out with the air. Ah, to live those days again!

 

Hello, everyone!

First, let me thank you for all the excellent articles, debates and knowledge posted here for us all to use essentially for free. What a World.

I've been a member of the HAMB for years, but haven't posted in a long while due to the all the things in life that compete for your time, attention, and money. I recently was able to purchase a 1930 Ford coupe, with plans to keep her a warmed over stocker. To this end I've kept the mechanical brakes, rebuilt the banger with inserts, front axle dropped and stretched, converted to 12v alternator, and a multitude of other small modifications in the name of reliability and safety. It's all coming together, but I still have so many questions. With that being said on to my confusion: Oiling.

I would like to run the oil through a filter and perhaps add some measure of extra efficiency to the oiling system. My idea is to run a pump modified to increase flow/pressure and have it all exit the inspection plug on the side of the block and to a filter, from there the system will branch with one line feeding the timing cover/gears, and the other will enter the valve cover (or somewhere) run the length of the block with outlets feeding the drain holes that feed the bearings and bits. Now, the pump I have in mind states that provisions must be made, "to oil the center cam bearing if the oil is routed out of the block." How would I do accomplish that? Is this whole plan ill-conceived? Suggestions?

Thanks for reading, and thanks for being such a terrific community. I'll try to be more active, but don't feel I could really add much. Honestly, I've got nothin'.

Pics for the curious:

 

As long as the drive for the oil pump is stock, a number 60 hole drilled vertically in the top of the pump casting will oil the center cam brg. and the drive gears. This would be in the area where the slot(s) were in the casting that have to be filled in when converting to pressure. Just let a little oil pass vertically.

I would not run a line to the timing gears--the oil is needed more in other areas, and enough oil spills out of the valve spring area (A), or oil gallery (B) to oil the gears

Just my $.03 (inflation)

And what do you mean you got nothing? You have a good lookin coupe, which will have a great street engine!

Herb

 

Rich, if you take a center punch to the inside of the harmonic balancer you can "build it up" that .005 without affecting the balance. It's an old machinist's trick.

 

Yes I could have. Or speaking as an old machinist, I briefly thought of using a center punch on the OD of the crank snout. But what seemed like a better idea was for the morons who made the dampener to have made it with a correct fit. I paid with perfectly good money for the dampener and I expected a dampener perfectly good for the intended use. Summit refunded my money and I bought a correctly manufactured dampener from BHJ. The actual point of my original post was the answer I got from Summits "Expert" Some kid might believe that crap and be happy that Summit dampeners are so easy to install. I have bought lots of stuff from Summit and thought their phone people were pretty competent. Not this last pair of clowns.

 

It's tough to get what you pay for these days. At work we replaced a very large shaft in a large machine, about 4 feet dia. and 30 feet long, custom made, stainless steel with water jackets, takes a year to get and costs a million dollars. The key for the drive gears was about .040 too big because the idiot roughed it in with too big of an endmill. We had to make a special key.

 

It's not like it was a one off dampener. It was for a small block Chevy. They must have made a production run and they are all oversize. But Summit doesn't care and the guys at the Chow Lu dampener and AK 47 factory don't care so people are buying useless junk. Not kind of useless. Completely useless.

 

Rich, if you run into any more energetic young HAMBers, please send them this way!

 

JN: you've accomplished quite a bit, but you didn't mention if you had drilled the crank for oil to the rods. Here's some pictures of a kit I developed a few years ago to make a simple, clean & durable oiling system. The engine in the picture went into a hi-way driven '31 Fordor and had
Babbitt bearings. Hot oil pressure with 10-40 was 25 lbs. at idle and 45 on the hi-way. If you want more pictures of the assy. you can pm me. Pat

 

Pat-
Very nice machining!
Why do the added counterweights look like they are made of aluminum? I like the way you removed some material from the crank to make it blend better with the shape of the counterweight.

Herb

 

Haha, I never thought of using aluminum for the weights. The weights are made of hot rolled steel plate that was milled with a carbide insert flycutter, before the inserts get dull they give a brilliant finish when run at high speed. I use a 3.5" dia. flycutter and run it at 2,800 rpm. I milled the crank wheels to reduce the necessity of a larger counterweight, this also kept the overall weight of the crank down and made it look more like a "C" crank. Long before the police were in vogue everyone called them "C" , could be because there was a large letter C cast on the head near the Dist.? Pat

 

Pat,

Do you have any closer/clearer pics of the counterweights? If it's not going to give up any secrets, I'd love to get a better understanding of how/where you connected them to the crank.

Thanks, Bill

 

Bill there are no secrets, just a lot of work. But used with the crank damper it makes an extremely smooth engine. Almost like a real one. Hope these pictures answer you questions, if not, ask away. On the "B" cranks I use three 7/16-20 domestic soc hd bolts & on the "A" I only use two because the "A" weights are lighter. One bolt is more than adequate to 7,000 rpm but the extra two give peace of mind and keeps the weight from wiggling. Pat

 

Pat great build on this motor could you explain more on your front plate set up and what crank damper you used thanks Rusty

 

Hi Rusty, I searched and couldn't find a complete photo of all the parts to the front cover. The water pump is a NASCAR unit, the damper is modified 283 chev, the hub is turned off and bolted to a 4140 steel hub with a keyway broached full length which means you need to install another keyway in the crank. Any model A dist. is used without modifying, it even turns the right way. the kit is pricey but there is "NO" machinework needed to install.(other than the keyway in the crank, and it's only needed in performance usage) but is complete with everything down to the belt, alternator, hoses( trim to fit ) all fasteners. I could scan a parts list if you want. Pat

 

I have a Winfield crowsfoot head for a model b engine i`m building. The problem is the machined radiuses around the valves for better flow in the head is bigger than the same radiuses in the gasket making the steel edge rim i the gasket to protrude into the combustion chamber.
Is there some kind of "big valve gasket" available for this issue? Thanks.

 

I use a "BEST" gasket 509C, it will clear a 1.875 valve & 4.000" bore. Pat

 

I use a Best model "B" Graphite # 573 G, they also make a copper type. IMO it is a must for the Winfield reproductions. I had to use a solid Copper on one cast Iron Winfield crows foot. You might call or send them an email and ask fir the dimension or width between valve chambers. I have found them very helpful. They do NOT sell direct, I buy mine through Taylor Engines. Maybe Taylor's could answer your question

http://bestgasket.com/
http://www.taylorengine.com/contact.htm

 

I better add this, at least the Winfield reproduction "Crows Foot" requires the use of the "B" gasket. The original CI Winfield "Crow's Foot" That I used the solid copper gasket on only had .190 between valve chambers

 

I picked up a multi disc clutch today. The guy said he took it out of his '28. I have heard these where used in the dirt cars in the early 30's. Now, is it worth messin' with or should I just turn it.

Ron

 

The only reason the the multiple disk clutch was used in race cars was the whole outer portion of the flywheel could be turned off, leaving only the drum that held the plates. If you are going to have a starter, you need the ring gear, and of course the portion of the flywheel between the drum and the gear. Then the advantage of the multiple disc arrangement is only that the clutch drags, and the plates rattle-- because by now they are all loose on the splines

 

OK thanks. I'm sure I can get my $50 back. Next question ... what mods need to be made to run a '39 trans?

Ron

 

Pat,

Wow!!!!!!!!! Great build!!!!!!!!
So many questions, but I need to study the pictures first. Thanks for posting them!!!!!!!

1st question:
With all the work done to the crank to counter balance the rotating mass. Why use the stock style pistons and not use short skirt modern style pistons?

?2:
Is this stock stroke?

?3:
Are the rod bearings pressurized too?

?4
Can you post any video of either of the flat head or the OHV engine running? if you need help with this, send me the video, and I will post it.

?5
On the blue B engine, are those stock b rods? if so, are they inserted? And if they are inserted, what bearings were used on the mains and rods?

?6:
What is the weight of the RPU modified?

 

OK to the ?"s,
#1, the owner is in his 80's and is not going to compete with it, and he wanted it sleeved to std. and use stock pistons.
#2, yes, stock stroke
#3, yes, the crank is drilled and has an enlarged oil pump.
#4, I'll see if i can get some video's be patient.
#5, yes, stock rods with babbitt.
#6, I would guess that it will be about 1,300/1,400 lbs.
#7, The rear main developed an oil leak so the engine is apart again, the babbitt was not done well and the crank had .009" runout on the #1 main while the rear was ok, go figger. so rather than redo the babbitt, I welded up the rear seal area on the crank to use a 350 Chev seal and will get the crank reground. This time i'll switch to inserts as a friend donated a set of B rods already bored for MGB inserts. For the mains I'm going to use V8-60 inserts and grind the mains -.030
#8, I ground the cam to 289 HIPO Mustang specs, has a nice roll to the idle
I'll make a note about the video's and see what I can come up with, Pat

 

Thanks for the follow up!!!!

What is the compression ratio on the blue B?

.

 

I need a little help! I had my Holley EBU rebuilt and I then snapped one of the idle adjustment screws in the lower plate. Where can I find the right screws to replace the broken one?

Another Question. my holley is maked with an EBU and after looking around I am getting the impression that it is just a later holley 94. Is this correct? Would a holley rebuild kit for an AA-1, 2100 work for this carb?

 

http://www.vintagespeed.com/carbs.htm
If you cant get just the screw pm me your address and I will send you one out off of my junk carbs.
Its all ways good to pick those real cheap carbs just to have the parts on hand

 

7:1, Max's Jenkin head B runs 11:1 on the street, 185 lbs. cranking compression, when the carbs are set right it will shut off and not diesel. Pat

 

I think I finally found some. Thanks for the info, I did check vintage speed, but wasn't sure if they just had the screws. I called holley and they put me in touch with a place that has parts for old holleys.

As for the rebuild do you know if the holley 94 rebuild kits are the same? I have a 94 EBU and am having trouble finding information about them and the other 94s. I had it rebuilt and it isnt running that great. Its very rich and wont idle so Im starting to wonder if the rebuild kit I got was wrong.

 

All the kits I have ever had was a one kit fits all. But I never found a kit that I liked most of the parts are junk but the kits cost big bucks. Now I just get my gaskets from KEN CT on the ford barn.
Are you going to give up the info on the place with the old parts?