I searched the board already and found a few threads, but still looking for more advise on getting my newly acquired '50 flathead spinning. I just got the car and the motor seems to be seized up, even though the previous owner said he had the car running before winter with the exception of a few stuck valves. Today I pulled the heads off and found a few of the cylinders filled with water. I cleaned out the cylinders and sprayed some penetrating oil and a little motor oil around the pistons. My question is, is there any mix of products that works better then others without damaging anything? And once I find a particular solution to put in the cylinders how long should I let it sit and how much force will be required to turn the motor over by hand? Pics for your enjoyment.
I soaked mine in PB blaster for a couple of weeks. It knocked out pretty easily, but I did have to pull the crank and get that one stuck piston out on it's own. Even kept the rings intact.
apparently, molasses (as used in horse feeds and the like) will help free stuck cylinders and remove rust from metal. just pour it in and let it work its magic. here is a site that may help you as well: http://www.rsmotorsport.com.au/technical/files/De-rusting_metal.pdf
I've tried every one of these supposed fixes. None of them worked on mine, and it looks VERY close to yours. I have been beating on that thing for months. It is stuck BAD. Just pouring something in the cylinders will not work. Without destroying it, I don't know what to do??? Good luck.
My dad bought a 65 chevelle when I was a kid that had a stuck 327. He never took it apart, drained the oil and filled it with auto trans fluid. He said he let it sit for about a week. this unstuck the engine, he put all new fluids back in it and drove the car as adaily driver and it run very well. I tested it as a teenager.
I've got one out in the garage that looks like that one's twin. Bought it at a won't get hurt price a while back. I am going to try the acetone and atf treatment and see what happens. You can get a quart of Acetone at Ace in the paint dept. Turn the block so you can fill the cylinder with the mix on top of the piston so it will soak down through the crud and rust and keep adding when it needs some added to keep it covered.
If you have read other threads then you most likely have seen my response on them, it would be the same
Take your time freeing it up. Don't brake the rings.i had a 2+4 and put it on a piston and taped it with a hammer, lightly the idea is just to vibrate it so the rust buster can work its way down between the pistons and the walls. Take it easy don't force it.
Here's what has worked for me... Yank engine from car, place on cheap (watch me get flamed) harbor freight engine stand. In your case, since it's a "V", Tilt engine so that the cylinders are facing straight upwards. Spray of the cylinder bore so that any remaining oil or dirt and other crap is gone. I then fill each cylinder with this stuff called Kroil. I let it sit for a week or two. Then I flip the engine over so the other side is facing up and repeat. Usually does the trick. One thing I learned the hard way was to NEVER EVER force the engine to get it to turn (Big ass prybar on the flywheel/crank/etc) because you may end up breaking expensive stuff. Time + penetrating stuff. If it's really crusty you can also try molasses. I had a spare straight 6 that sat with the plugs out of it for nearly 30 years, it was real bad. This worked on it and it still runs fine
Forum search for the words penetrant and stuck returned these 43 posts. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/search.php?searchid=13434079 Your options are nearly limitless.
I will vouch for this, as ridiculous as it sounds. I had a motor that I soaked in wd40 for weeks, did nothing. ATF/acetone for weeks, did nothing. I had a prybar on the flywheel and rocked back and forth in gear, and also had a block of wood id put on a piston and pound with a hammer. I put coke in as a last resort and less than 2 days later it broke free with the wood block. This was last april. Make sure to clean the cylinders and give it a good hone before you take the motor for a full revolution or the rust could break the rings or scrape the pistons. I would try coke first, really.
we had a stuck model T motor, and put boiling hot coke in it and it came loose in a few minutes. the heat lets it penetrate pretty quick.
Veterinary iodine works for me. Cuts rust real quick. You have to blow all the other crap out of there first, though. Put the heads on, and find a cylinder that has the valves closed. Take your pressure washer and hold it tight in the plug hole and give it a blast. The pressure will push the piston down and get things freed up.
Humm makes you wonder what it can do to your stomach. I think I may give this a try, what do I have to loose.
i have seen the results of moleasses and it works great. i have used PB blaster, 50/50 atf acetone,coca cola and they all worked great! heating coca cola sounds kinda interesting as heat is your friend!
insert your favorite concoction for breaking rust up... slap the car on the trailer, chaing it down, leave chains lose, put it in gear, and drive around for a while letting the car move a round on the trailer.... it'll break it lose.
I have used molasses to remove rust and it does work, but I remember it taking a good bit of time to work. I have kroil and it,s good. Another product is marvel mystry oil. Been around for years and may work for you
If you get it unstuck there will not be much left that will be serviceable rods and crank.. Not in running order.But it still needs to come apart. Tig.
Exactly. I am a huge advocate of using coke now that I did it with my own engine and it worked (and worked well). My engine was in much worse condition so I have a feeling that yours will come loose. Plus, its only a couple bucks for a couple bottles/cans of coke. And remember, taper cut down a 2X4 or something so it fits in the cylinder and bang on it with a hammer. Let us know how it turns out.
The above engine I posted pics of did not come apart. A good honing on the cyls and a fresh head gasket and it runs smooth and strong. Im not arguing that a full rebuild wouldnt be "better", but it may not be needed depending on the circumstance.
if your taking it apart and not trying to run it then pull the pan and start pulling pistons out, if you try and run that motor it will distroy the pistons, maybe there allready shot but maybe not, any rust pits on the walls and it will smoke like a train, in my younger days i did start a few old stuck engines, now i'm older and smarter, rust or iron oxide in the cylinder means its elsewhere to, pumping it through the oil system doesnt sound to smart does it?
Like Butch said, keep an eye on the valve train as well. My flathead has a valve siezed in the guide at the moment and thats locking things up.
There are a few stuck valves, you can see where they are not contacting the lifter. I know there is a special tool for removing the valves, but are there any other tricks when trying to remove the valve locks to pull the valve assembly out?
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