Putting a Chrysler Industrial Hemi in a 52 Dodge truck

Thanks for the tip Triggerman. I will hunt some of that down. That's the simplicity I was looking for.

 

You're veddy welcome. Here's what it looks like. If you have a tough time finding it, it is make by Henkel Corporation in Avon, Ohio. Since that is closer to your neck of the woods than mine I would suppose you could find it.

 

Dan what brand trans. adapter are you using. I'm getting ready to do a similar swap with a turbo 400 and i'm pretty sure I'll need a right side stater.

 

I got the adapter from wilcap. Good reputation here and helpful on the phone when I had questions.

 

Looks good man.

 

Got the gauges in tonight. Somehow, having those big holes in the dash covered up make me feel like I'm making progress.




Gauges are from Classic Instruments. They call them their Hot Rod Series. They fit the stock trim bezels perfectly. I had to clearance little bit because the back of the guage was hitting a part of the dash that comes across the top end of the hole..but that was simple to do.

 

the more I see this post the more it makes me want to grab my dad's 392 and put it into my 48...

 

Nice, those gauges in the stock bezals looks bitchin'....

 

Made a mounting bracket for the Speedo/Tach combo gauge. Put it on top of the existing bracket that supports the dash and steering column. Out of the way, but can get to it if needed...and no extra holes in the firewall.


Got the tank out so I could clean it out. Even though it had years of dried Carolina clay stuck to it, the inside was really clean. There were some stones (like 1/2" to 1" stones) in the tank and a valve stem cap in the tank...but no rust or flaking metal.

Before


After



I may need to use my dremel tool to cut-off the tabs on the ring and then drill some holes in the tank for the new sender. The original sender had a locking ring that holds it in place, but the Classic Instruments sender bolts in.




QUESTION: How long do I need to let the tank air out before I can use my dremel and drill without worrying about fumes blowing up?

 

Have you already checked the electrical resistance of the OEM sender against the needs of the Classic Instruments gas gauge?

 

Yes...totally different range. The CI one is a modern 240 - 33 ohm sender. The oem was something like 80-0

 

Can you machine or make an adapter the new sender to match the old tank mounting system? Gasoline will stay in tank creases and crevices a long time, and when hot it will vaporize, and when it's vapor it's explosive.

You can use hand tools (yes is goes slowly) or maybe put dry ice in the tank - outgassing CO2 should help?

 

Great little truck project. I would have never thunk the hemi would go into the space the little 6 was.

Nice steady progress.

I'm scribed.

PACO

 

I like the truck. Killer project. Nice to see a real Hemi in a Dodge.

 

Thanks.

After dealing with an issue in getting the intake mounted, I'm almost ready to put the engine back in the truck. First start is realistically about 2-3 weeks away ( I pretty much work at a snails pace ).

 

Finally reclaiming some of my garage floor space. I've gotten enough of my wiring, fuel & brake systems done so I could drop the engine back in.

Getting ready to start


Up & away


Almost there


Done




Anyone have a diagram for wiring up the engine? I'm using the Rebel Harness and want to confirm how to connect the regulator, electric choke and ignition.

Other than finishing up the stuff I've already started, then next big thing to work on will be swapping in a rear axle. The Jeep Cherokee rear from the early 90's is supposed to be a pretty straight forward swap.

 

Looks like your making good progress there.

Michael

 

I spoke to Bob at Rebel Wire about connecting the generator & regulator. Since I didn't find the answer through a search here, I thought I'd add this info to my thread in case someone in the future tries a search.

To run a generator with a 3 post regulator, here's how you do it with the Rebel harness.

Alternator Wire that comes as an extra wire in the bag - connect that from the battery post on the starter solenoid (or directly from the battery) to the Battery Post on the regulator.

Field from Generator to Field on Regulator
Arm from Generator to Arm on Regulator

The White Exciter wire in the harness is not used. Since it is a keyed hot wire, it can be used for any other keyed power (as long as you put an inline fuse on the wire). I have an electric choke on my carb, so that's what I'll use it for.

 

Great news, Dan! Glad you got your engine together and are making visible progress.....again.

 

Looking good Dan, from your FFcars friends.

I gotta get some pics up here on this board of my 65 Riv GS Project.

8,000 posts over you know where, and a whopping two here. LOL.

 

Great progress Dan, good to see you're making progress. Waiting to hear that Hemi run!

 

More questions:

1) I'm using a remote oil filter setup. On the block, there are two holes. Which hole is the outlet and which is the return?




2) I have a 17" 4 blade fan..pulled it off my flathead 6. Will this fan flow enough air through the radiator to keep the engine cool? What type of fan did these old hemis come with from the factory? I'm using an aluminum radiator, so I expect that it will help with cooling efficiency..but want to make sure.

 

As far as #2 is concerned, I'll say this. The 4 blade fan that was originally in my g/f's '55 Coronet, which has a 270 poly, moved very little air at all. We are using a stock sized radiator that has been re-cored at some point, and were having a lot of vapor lock issues with the car. We swapped on a Summit 17" 6 blade fan, and I was SHOCKED how much more air it moves. Its like there wasn't even a fan in there before. All vapor lock and heat sink issues were solved.

This is the fan. It is actually USA made, and very well constructed. Doesn't look "period", but it will definitely cool the engine.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4917/?rtype=10

You may be fine because of the new aluminum radiator, but that fixed 4 blade fan won't be doing much of the work.

 

Bottom into the filter & top back into block.

 

I have a 6 blade fan like that Summit one, but the blades hit the pulleys, so I'll have to space it out more. I can do that, but then I have to rework my radiator mounts for extra clearance.

I was hoping the one I had would work, but it really does look wimpy. Was also hoping to keep the period look.

Anyone know what the stock fans from the factory were?

 

There's 4 & 6, but with diffrent hub sizes.

 

... although a 6 or 7 blade fan would be best, a shroud will go a long way in helping the fan move air....

.

 

Sounds like you are going to need a driveshaft soon and some other help,I have a Chiltons 1949 to 1959 that shows everything you need to start that hemi and you know I make driveshafts,would love to cruise up some weekend......

 

Going to try to figure out a shroud too. I've seen some posts here about how to make one and now have access to sheet metal from a neighbor, so I think I can put one together.

Paul...I should be ready for the rear end swap in about a month or so (I hope). I'll call you when I'm ready for that part. If you're in the neighborhood anytime, feel free to give me a call. I'm always willing to give a visitor some work to do.

 

Here's some inspiration for you I saw last summer at a cruise in. A little bit newer but the same idea. Sorry for the blurry cell phone pics. The one pic shows the battery in a nifty shelf built into the left inner fender.