Why is my carburator squirting gas outside of Carb?

I have a 61 Pontiac 389. 2 barrell 2GC model carb I just rebuilt it. The car will run but the vent tube that comes up from the bowl cover assembly is flowing gas out of it. Running or not running gas is coming up from this tube. I can also just crank the motor and it flows out of this tube. I take it the float is not adjusted correctly possibly.

Thanks,

Wizard

 

I would vote float level or sticky needle/seat. Pretty easy to take care of actually. Has it been rebuilt recently?

 

Yes, I just rebuilt it. I take it I can just remove the top of carb and adjust the float? Should the float be adjusted up or down?

Wizard

 

What fuel pump are you using?
stock? electric?
might need a regulator,,
but first check the float and the needle and seat.

 

Using brand new stock mechanical fuel pump.

 

my mechanical fuel pump had too much pressure . it was doing the same i put a regulator at 4 psi and it went away

 

Take the float out, shake it to see if it's full of gas.
Gasohol is rough on brass floats (ask me how I know).

 

its trying to commit autocide, via immulation.......what have you been doing to abuse that thing so bad to make it come to this point?

 

The carb rebuild kit you used should have had a "float adjustment" portion in the rebuild instructions, along with a plastic or cardboard float level measuring tool and a chart showing float settings for different versions of your carb. Sounds to me like the float level is to high causing fuel to flow out of the tube, but I can't believe its running at all if the float is that high. I think float level is the culprit, but make sure the needle/seat is not obstructed and that the needle moves freely up and down. I am assuming you changed the needle, usually a worn needle will have a wear ring impression where it meets the seat which indicates it should be replaced, which again, I assume you did during the rebuild.
Also, be sure and check the float for leakage per Artfrombama ........

 

You can but I suggest removing the carb from the manifold and doing it on the bench as it is too easy to drop a screw down the intake and miss it.

The kit should have come with instructions but usually you can come pretty close by flipping the top upside down and setting the float so it sets level and square with the top but I'd still measure it and get it right on the nose.

Check the float to make sure that it level, and make sure that it doesn't feel like it has absorbed gas and is heavy. If it is a brass float make sure that it doesn't have a leak in it.
make sure that the needle is in right and doesn't have a chunk of dirt or sand under it.

You also want to check the float drop as if it drops too far the needle may drop down too far and stick.

 

Didn't the carb kit come with some sort of instructions??

 

Yes, I replaced everything with the Napa carb kit. I didn't set/check the float level with the meausuring tool/instructions they provided. I eyeballed it. Will pull top off and work on it.

Thnks for help.

Wizard

 

Got the float adjusted correctly. Carb now working good except for high idle. How do you turn down the idle on this carb? The only way that looks to do it is by the 2 needles in front of carb on the bottom. The instructions show these. Adjust one at a time to bring idle down to 500 rpm or another way? Also instructions show on side of carb, driver side but don't really see a idle screw on my carb. Instructions cover 3 different carbs.

Wizard

 

Much more ghastly than immolation, Trust me.

 

Automatic trans or manual if it's auto you might want the iddle a little higher than 500 rpm probably 600 to 700.

 

Same thing happen to me a while back on a 2g. Turned out to be a stuck needle and seat.

 

Problem solved!?

 

It should idle fast until the choke spring heats up and opens fully. Then if you blip the gas pedal the idle should drop down. If it doesn't do this, see the instructions for adjusting the choke and fast idle in the instructions that came with the carb kit. Also the heat tube that goes from the exhaust manifold to the choke must be connected.

 

The car is a automatic. The above has all been done. It has fast idle no matter what. Temp outside was 75 degrees when working on it. The carb has all been rebuilt. I guess those 2 adjusters on bottom front of carb 2G is the way to adjust idle..

Wizard

 

Those are mixture adjuters. They will have some affect on idle, but not what I think you are describing. Mke sure that the throttle plate (base) of the carburetor is returning to closed position and not sticking open.

Sometimes the base gasket may be causing the throttle to stay partially open.

Throttle return spring, installed in the same position as when it was taken off and not stretched?

 

start with teh mixture screws 1.5 turns out from all the way in (dont go TIGHT all teh way in just all the way in) ... and adjust from there at the RPM you want

i agree be carefull of the base gasket...

there is also a trick where you block the carb off with your hand and almost let it die 2-3 times, then let it die ... then restart, this will help is some lil piece of crap got in your needle area..

i just rebuilt the one on my 283 and it ran a lil funny at first, but futzed with it once it was already on the car and seems MUCH better now... i might need to adjust .. my float too, and I agree best to take it off the motor first.. i still need to drive mine a little more and see how it goes, but already running MUCH better than it was

i too have the issue with the higher idle, but thats why god made idle screws LOL... i dont think my choke is working 100%, but very close.. before the thing never opened, now it will rev HARD if i want it to, and no hesitation... :0)

good luck!

 

The 2GC should have an adj. screw for idle on the opposite side from the choke. (driver's side) and that should set the idle. Don't do it with the air misture screws as you'll end up having a carb that runs crappy by the time you get it to idle down.
Here's a site with pics and assistance for your 2GC carb:
http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/tech/Rochester/TwoJet-index.html

 

2GC's have a cam that the idle screw rides. The choke pulls the cam up and into fast idle, as the choke comes off, the cam slowly returns to curb idle position. There's a link between the choke and cam that must be installed and the cam must be free to rotate around that big screw.

Fuel pumps. I had two mechanical pumps in the last three years that delivered over 10 psi. Don't trust the pump, put a temporary pressure gauge on the delivery pipe and make sure. 4-6 is what you want.

 

Are you really a wizard? You could use magic!

 

Also check to see if the high idle cam got installed in reverse. With the engine off and the choke straight up (hold it open with a close pin or something) the idle cam should be at it's lowest point against your idle screw. Just a thought.

 

Most every carb has an idle screw that is located on the throttle linkage somewhere,
check out this diagram..

 

Will look at carb again and not mess with mixture adjusters first off. Will take all information everyone posted and review carb again for idle screw.

Wizard

 

Wizard,,
You should be looking for the 'fast idle' screw as shown in the diagram.