I have a couple questions. 1. With a mustang 2 front end and air ride, do I still use the rods going from the lower arms to the frame? 2. I have a good break pedal when the car is not running, but when I start it the break pedal goes all the way to the floor very easily. I'm using MC and booster from a 87 Monte Carlo. What could be the issue?
When you say lower arms to the frame do you mean the sway bar?? if so yes, its helps with body roll when cornering. As far as the brakes...booster prob im thinking but I could be wrong..never seen that one before?
I'm no brake setup expert, but my guess is you some kind of vacuum leak to your MC for it not to work when you turn the car on?
No, not the sway bar. There are bars that mount to the lower Arm and head towards the rear of the car and frame mount. I am going to check for vacuum leaks.
To answer your brake question.... You do NOT have a vacuum leak... that would work the opposite... There wouldnt be enough vacuum to ASSIST in you pushing the pedal to the floor.... The truth is, you REALLY dont have a good pedal with the car not running, it only FEELS like it because you have no assist. The pedal is hard to press because it not being assisted by vacuum and you have SOME resistance in the brake system... (NOTE: remember that having NO vacuum to your BOOSTER does NOT feel the same as manual brakes!!!) EITHER you have installed a boosted MC that doesnt match the rest of the brake system well and gives you WAY too much power.... OR, most likely, you need to keep bleeding the brakes WITH the engine running!
Leaks or no leaks, it seems you're not getting enough vaccuum. Do you have the vaccuum hose from your booster going to your manifold? Either way, it does sound like vaccuum to me...
Those bars I assume you are asking about act as stiffeners off the lower suspension arm. Eliminating them would make the lower arm weak, maybe cause some bump steer. I sure would want them in.
NO! if he was LACKING vacuum, the booster would NOT help him press the pedal.... the pedal would be too HARD when the car is running... Go pull the vacuum line off of your booster and see how hard the pedal gets! He has PLENTY of vacuum, he needs to bleed his brakes!
sorry guys all that said booster are wrong, he either has air in his system and needs or the master is for manual brakes and has a booster installed he didn't say if he had brakes or not manual has a smaller bore size there for more travel.
Well you should be sorry. He said he has plenty of peddle until he lights it off. He also said that the booster and master came from an '87 Monte. I know this is a long shot but my assumption would be that he has a power master and that he has brakes until he lights it off. Of course if I assume I only make an ass out of u and me. I was already an ass just ask anybody, so I'm sorry about what I have done to you.
OK... ONE MORE TIME.... The only way his problem is the MASTER/BOOSTER combination is if he put the wrong combo on there! If it has EVER worked right... he needs to keep bleeding... He does NOT have a good pedal with the engine off! IT ONLY FEELS LIKE IT!!! Once the booster has vacuum so that it can do its job, the pedal goes to the floor !! When a booster fails (or doesnt get vacuum) its HARDER to push the pedal to the floor, not easier!!!! There are ONLY two possiblities: 1. he doesnt have the proper MC/Booster combo installed for his set up (i.e. disc/drum or drum/drum or disc/disc) 2. (and most likely) He still has LOTS of air in the system!!! If anyone disagrees, go start your car... remove the vacuum line from your booster... pump the pedal a couple of times... and see if the pedal goes to the floor!!! NO, it wont... it will be hard as @#$% to push!!!!
On the strut-rods being needed or not: Depends on which "Mustang 2" suspension you have. If it consists of a stock, or stock-style lower swing-arm, you need the rods, because in stock configuration, the lower swing-arm pivots on a short "pivot-pin", and can't stand up to a lot of side-load. But...if it's an aftermarket setup, with two separate pivots on the lower swing-arm that are situated a distance apart, then you don't need the strut-rods, because the pivot-system of the lower arm provides plenty of resistance against side-loads.
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