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1936 Ford traditional chassie, what to use?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Swedeshoebox, Nov 22, 2009.

  1. Swedeshoebox
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 149

    Swedeshoebox
    Member
    from Sweden

    Starting on the chassie for my 36 Roadster.

    Stock 1936 frame, 39 rearaxle, 39 frontaxle 39 steering, 39 gearbox,
    French flathead (59a rear/8ba front)!

    The questions are, can i use the rear trans-mount from a 37-39 Frame?
    or do i have to change the rear-mount on the tranny to fit the 1936 frame? Im going to use the stock emergancy brake handle! witch is mounted to the rear support?

    Do i have to mount spacers on motor mount? (going to use pickup waterpumps)
     
  2. TomWar
    Joined: Jun 11, 2006
    Posts: 727

    TomWar
    Member

    back in 1958, I took the 36 body off of the frame, and put it on a1939 frame, that I bought. the 39 had been completely rebuilt, brakes, bearings, bushings etc.
    But the frames are esentialy the same. Bolt holes all lined up.
    Maybe this helps!
     
  3. Fe26
    Joined: Dec 25, 2006
    Posts: 540

    Fe26
    Member

    Convertable cars had a thicker frame wall than cars with a roof.
     
  4. carbuilder
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 982

    carbuilder
    Member

    All 36 frames for cars & pu were the same thickness I have 2 36 original roadsters at the shop & 1 coupe plus 2 more coupe frames all measure the same thickness.
     

  5. Swedeshoebox
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 149

    Swedeshoebox
    Member
    from Sweden

    Some new questions!

    Is it a good idea to raise the crossmembers? and in that case how mutch? i have a 3" mordrop axle.

    how to mount front and rear shocks?

    is it enough space for a pair of smittys 22"? like to see some exhaust pics:)

    do i have to make any mounts for the brake lines and hoses? 39 brakes.



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. it doesn't look like you have a dropped axle to me?

    for shocks , i'd use Pete & Jakes # 5001 shock kit up front and # 1070 in the rear. here are links to them:

    http://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/3548/35_shocks.htm

    http://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/3548/35_rearsuspension.htm

    i have 27" long Smitty's on my `36 ford. i modified those braces that go from the outer frame rails to the center X to allow them to go through. sorry , no pictures

    yes, you need tabs for lines/hoses. since my `36 is on a `40 frame i use the existing tabs on the front. you can barely see them in the picture , i'm sure you could make something up.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Swedeshoebox
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 149

    Swedeshoebox
    Member
    from Sweden

    Your right, on the pic the chassie have a stock axle! need to change kingpins and drop the steeringarms before the dropped axle will be in place!

    Good to know that i can use smittys, have them on my 1950 Ford and i love the sound:D

    and the bracket for brake-hoses seems easy to make!
    Thanks for the tips, picture and link!:)
     
  8. rustymule
    Joined: Mar 26, 2011
    Posts: 4

    rustymule
    Member

    How about s-10 chassie?
     
  9. pinupwithgun
    Joined: Jan 25, 2009
    Posts: 192

    pinupwithgun
    Member

    The smittys will fit but i suggest the porters. They will last much much longer and sound better. I am about to change out my smittys for the porters. I put the porters on the wifes pontiac and there is just no comparison. Just my 2 cents.
     
  10. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,005

    koolkemp
    Member


    :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek: !!!
     
  11. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Great idea! I'm sure four wheel drive will be Handy in Sweden!
     
  12. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,946

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not even close traditional and about the best way to totally screw up a fat fender Ford. Read the question all the way through before throwing out a off the wall answer.

    Sweedishshoebox, as far as the Smitties go, It is more about how good your exhaust guy is. It takes an artist with a pipe bender to do it right on this frame and not have to cut out the windows like the first guy who put duals on my old 51 Merc did. I'd think the mufflers would want to be alongside the driveshaft between the X member and the rear axle.
    I like your ideas and am subscribing to this thread to see where it goes.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2011
  13. Swedeshoebox
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 149

    Swedeshoebox
    Member
    from Sweden

    :confused::confused::confused:


    No this car will have a flathead, dropped axle, juicebrakes, 39 gearbox,
    leafsprings, whitewalltires, flippers, skirts, all stock wood in the body, and in front a 1940 Lasallegrill......that is what i think is traditional!

    have almost all the parts for the car now but a housebuild came between so it will take some time before i can proceed with the roadster!
     
  14. loudpedal
    Joined: Mar 23, 2004
    Posts: 2,203

    loudpedal
    Member
    from SLC Utah

    Huh? I'd be suprised if that was true.
     
  15. Heo
    Joined: Jan 8, 2010
    Posts: 524

    Heo
    Member

    they have an extra folding on the bottom of the frame at least in 37
    hard to explain in englich for me. thats the only difference i have
    recogniced
     
  16. carbuilder
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 982

    carbuilder
    Member

    35/36 frame do not any thing extra for the convertible or open car versus the closed cars. The roadsters & phaetons had a pair of 10 gage cowl supports on the front of the cowl running down to the frame because of the wood structure in them versus steel in the pillars & rear pillars had a casting bolted to the wood & bolted thru the floor to the frame versus the stamped steel brace welded to the steel pillar in the steel roofed cars.
     
  17. hellonwheels
    Joined: Jan 16, 2007
    Posts: 674

    hellonwheels
    Member

    Actually, the X-member got thinner in mid '36 (partial production). Wall thickness went from .110 to .085. You can tell these frames from the lack of round holes in the x-member (I have had both). This style of frame gradually increased in production through the end of '36. Here's a shot of my '35 frame with the round holes in the 'thick-walled' x-member:

    [​IMG]

    And here's a shot of the wasted frame that came under my '36 sedan with the 'thinner-walled' x-member (see, no holes!):

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2011

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