I finally found a 351 cleveland 1972 d2ae-ca block number 2f 130 564 2 bolt mains, 2 barrel heads number 1k4 1k6 . does any body know what these mean? Also what mods should I do to make this a good to great performer in my 1934 Ford 3 window coupe? thanks Shaun.
You have a base line cleaver there but hp is unlimited with these engines with the right parts. Go to this forum for info. The cleavland guys. http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/
The Cleveland is my 2nd favorate engine behind the early Hemi. With todays gas I wouldn't up the comp over 9.5. You could install the 4 bls 2.19/1.71 valves, but the 2Vs 2.02/1.65 are plenty big. Performer intake for the 2V heads would be an improvement over the stock 2 bl intake. Don't bore unless you have to, .030 is about it. Should do good in your car.
Great engine. The ports and valves are the right size for a potent street engine. Open chambers breate well but some say are prone to detonation on low octane fuel. Definately go to Ford Cleveland based information sources. There is alot of misinformation out there about the Cleveland engine, especially the oiling system. It is true that the cylinder walls are cast in such a way that a .030 overbore is max recommended. Stay within the limits and you'll have plenty of meat for all but the most all out race applications. This is a cool engine that really performs and looks good while doing it. It has the wide cyl heads and a squared off blockey look to it. Can be made really eye appealing. Have fun!
A great motor for sure!!---We shoe horned a '72 Cleveland into my son's first car a '66 mustang 289 3spd trans. Even with a 2bbl carb. that sucker would keep you nailed back in the bucket seat thru all 3 gears!!!!! The only problem incurred was cutting into the shock towers & reversing the cut out for stock exhaust manifold clearance, originally the towers were engineered to be a part of body strength in the fender(s) area. When son hit first good road dip, the front end kinda caved in, after realizing what happened, we added a strong cross bar across from fender to fender under the hood, sent the Mustang to front end shop & that cured the whole problem!
If you are going to hot rod it at all, use a STOCK oil pump...a high volume pump will pump all the oil up top, and starve the bottom end. You can restrict the oil in the block at the mains where it feeds the cam, and it will live forever..also, replace the multi groove valves with single groove ones...just really good insurance..
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